LR3 Clutch Actuator fail? - Defender Source
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Old May 31st, 2016, 09:05 PM
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1995 D90 #2620 & NAS 110
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LR3 Clutch Actuator fail?

Coincidence???

It’s starting to get hot here and the wife noticed the passenger side a/c was blowing a touch warmer than the driver side vents. I read if you press the recirc and econ buttons while turning the ignition on the car would calibrate the flapper, so I gave it a try. Seemed benign so I didn’t really pay much attention and nothing stood out. I switched the ignition off then back on and it triggered a bunch of unrelated faults.

The most concerning fault is the “low mountain” is flashing green (as well as “high” and “low” on the tcase selector) as if it is trying to switch into low gear. It’s also throwing a HDC and parking brake fault.

Lynx is showing the following faults but I’m not able to get them to clear.

P-186D Clutch Actuator Stuck


U-0148 Invalid Data Received from Vehicle Dynamic Control Module – unexpected operation


U-0403 Invalid Data Received from Transfer Case Control Module - unexpected operation


U-0421 Invalid Data Received from Ride Level Control Module – unexpected operation

Did pressing the recirc/econ buttons trigger this event or it is just a coincidence? No issues before attempting to calibrate the right/left sides so I find it strange that all of a sudden it’s throwing these faults. It’s a 2005 HSE with rear elocker.

I made a half ass effort to mess/wiggle the wiring on the actuator. Has anyone replaced one of these actuators? Do they really go bad and is it as much as a pita as it looks from beneath the truck? Should I drive the truck around the block to see if the fault clears, or at least to see if it make the transition from high to low gear?


Any help or guidance would be appreciated!
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  #2  
Old June 10th, 2016, 10:05 PM
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lordhelemt
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I just wanted to close the loop on this thread and hopefully save someone some time and $ if you find yourself needing to replace the rear diff motor.

The problem with this repair is getting to the 2 rear bolts. The tech manual doesn't give any guidance and the only thing I could find online mentioned donating a lot of skin to get to those back 2 bolts.

To get to the back bolts

1) drop the spare
2) remove the evap canister
3) remove the metal shield on the tcase module

From there you can easily get the back 2 bolts on the diff motor. You may need to rotate the gear to get the motor and diff to line up but other than that its a pretty straight forward repair.

You may want to presoak the bolts, I found them kind of rusty, and while you're back there lube the spare tire cable. I didn't realize how hard mine was to turn until it was lubed up.
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  #3  
Old June 12th, 2016, 06:30 AM
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So this was a total coincidence? Damn.
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