LR3 Brake Caliper bad? - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old July 30th, 2013, 07:10 PM
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LR3 Brake Caliper bad?

Should both pistons compress when I press on the brakes?

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  #2  
Old July 30th, 2013, 07:14 PM
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One might just be a little stickier than the other... path of least resistance is the one that's a little more free.

What made you take it apart in the first place? This will be the first time I have heard of an LR3 having caliper issues.
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  #3  
Old July 30th, 2013, 07:26 PM
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I changed pads/rotors about 4000 miles ago with aftermarket rotors and genuine pads from AB. Recently, I've heard scrapes and metallic pings, especially on turns. I was about 35 miles from the house and I hear a grinding from this corner with what felt like a brake grab. Enough so that I called for a flatbed to get me back home. Upon inspection, there was a 1/8" groove wearing on the exterior surface of the rotor. I figure perhaps I got some junk between the pad and rotor driving through nasty storms in Florida. Anyway, I ordered genuine rotor/pads this time and installed...still getting the occasional scrapping noises and metallic pings, almost as if the pad holders were in contact with the rotor. There seems to be no visual contact. Ive checked the pins (free). So I pumped the brakes to see if the pistons would compress and I see this. About to order a new caliper...nothing like throwing money at problems. I was wondering if this is normal, like you said path of least resistance or because it is the caliper closest to the MC?
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Old July 31st, 2013, 10:16 AM
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Are you able to compress each of the pistons back into their bores easily?


I would also investigate the wheel bearing if you are noticing the noise mostly on turns. The front wheel bearings are known wear items.
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Old July 31st, 2013, 12:16 PM
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WB seem fine. Yes, that piston will compress, though it takes more force. I wonder if it is limited on outward travel though. Im going to rip her apart/air it to see for posterity.

New caliper assembly in hand. If it doesn't resolve the issue, I'll try a new hub assembly with WB already pressed.
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Old July 31st, 2013, 02:28 PM
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Well, that worked out I guess. On the way to the garage to fit the caliper at 2-3 MPH, the wheel bearing literally grenaded. Funny since there was no discernable play in the wheel when I checked on numerous occasions. Now there is over 1/2"! Guess 70-85K is the lifetime of the factory wheel bearing as you all have mentioned. I'm going to try out the Timken hub assembly.

I decided to keep this truck to fill in as the family off-roader as wife didn't like the idea of a 110... and it does this to me.
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Old July 31st, 2013, 02:42 PM
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Getting ready to do brakes/rotors/lower control arms on '06 LR3 with 90k....guess maybe I should add wheel bearings to that list "while I'm in there". Any idea on the Timken # for the bearing, or is the $90 LR one the only option?
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Old July 31st, 2013, 03:10 PM
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Yea I'm at 68k and its needs the front lower arms. Good thing to consider.
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  #9  
Old July 31st, 2013, 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Broncoduecer View Post
Yea I'm at 68k and its needs the front lower arms. Good thing to consider.
I'm leaning towards going with the Range Rover Sport arms since they supposedly have the updated bushings and are what's used on the armored LR3s.
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Old July 31st, 2013, 04:25 PM
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The Sport bushing is not "updated" although it is a different design. It does not allow as much deflection.

The LR3 bushings are designed with more "comfort" and shock absorption in mind while the Sport bushings are intended to offer sharper performance and a more direct feel.

They are interchangable.
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Old July 31st, 2013, 05:21 PM
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Originally Posted by transientmechanic View Post
The Sport bushing is not "updated" although it is a different design. It does not allow as much deflection.

The LR3 bushings are designed with more "comfort" and shock absorption in mind while the Sport bushings are intended to offer sharper performance and a more direct feel.

They are interchangable.
I guess the million dollar question is...which one will last longer?
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Old July 31st, 2013, 05:31 PM
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Not sure, the LR3's seem to need them more frequently but I dont know if that is a product of the heavier vehicle or the bushing design.

There is a distinct difference in feel between the two bushings. Considering they only need replacement every 70k or so I would keep the LR3 bushings if I were in the position.
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Old July 31st, 2013, 05:42 PM
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Originally Posted by SMac View Post
Well, that worked out I guess. On the way to the garage to fit the caliper at 2-3 MPH, the wheel bearing literally grenaded. Funny since there was no discernable play in the wheel when I checked on numerous occasions. Now there is over 1/2"! Guess 70-85K is the lifetime of the factory wheel bearing as you all have mentioned. I'm going to try out the Timken hub assembly.

I decided to keep this truck to fill in as the family off-roader as wife didn't like the idea of a 110... and it does this to me.
Those wheel bearings are weird. Sometimes I check them for play, and they have some play, then I rotate the tire, and there is no play. That happens all the time.

------ Follow up post added July 31st, 2013 05:42 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanwind View Post
Getting ready to do brakes/rotors/lower control arms on '06 LR3 with 90k....guess maybe I should add wheel bearings to that list "while I'm in there". Any idea on the Timken # for the bearing, or is the $90 LR one the only option?
For $90 I would just buy the LR bearing and save yourself the trouble.
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Old July 31st, 2013, 07:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanwind View Post
Getting ready to do brakes/rotors/lower control arms on '06 LR3 with 90k....guess maybe I should add wheel bearings to that list "while I'm in there". Any idea on the Timken # for the bearing, or is the $90 LR one the only option?
HA500601. Complete hub assembly with bearing pressed. $155 from RockAuto with their discount. $360ish locally at your parts houses....
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  #15  
Old July 31st, 2013, 07:31 PM
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Oh, and I recommend genuine pads and rotors. The aftermarket jobs rust quickly and deeply. Ive found the best genuine prices on LR parts to be landrovermerriamparts.com. I've never ordered from them but Eric at AB price matches. So genuine front rotors are like $78ish and pad set $89ish, not too much more than aftermarket.
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Old July 31st, 2013, 08:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanwind View Post
Getting ready to do brakes/rotors/lower control arms on '06 LR3 with 90k....guess maybe I should add wheel bearings to that list "while I'm in there". Any idea on the Timken # for the bearing, or is the $90 LR one the only option?
Let me know if this becomes a successful undertaking, Jason. I have the same "to do" list, plus upper control arms and suspension bushings. At 112k, I've got clunks, clanks, thunks- you name it. GREAT truck; just time for a refresh.
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Old August 1st, 2013, 10:01 AM
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Let me know if this becomes a successful undertaking, Jason. I have the same "to do" list, plus upper control arms and suspension bushings. At 112k, I've got clunks, clanks, thunks- you name it. GREAT truck; just time for a refresh.
I don't think I've ever heard of upper control arms failing on LR3's. I would just do the lowers.
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Old August 1st, 2013, 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Jymmiejamz View Post

I don't think I've ever heard of upper control arms failing on LR3's. I would just do the lowers.
Agreed, I did the uppers at the same time as the lowers and it wasn't needed, 80k miles. The upper bushings were tight. It's too bad the uppers aren't the ones that fail since they were much easier to do than the lowers.
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Old August 1st, 2013, 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Jymmiejamz View Post
I don't think I've ever heard of upper control arms failing on LR3's. I would just do the lowers.
I have to replace both the ones on the right this weekend.

They do fail. Granted I have 150,000 hard miles on them, but the forward bushings are shot and I can move the control arm around with my hand.
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Old August 2nd, 2013, 01:24 PM
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Anyone know the torque spec on the front wheel bearing/hub assembly nut?
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