LR3 Brake Caliper bad? - Page 2 - Defender Source
Defender Source  

Go Back   Defender Source > Non-Technical Discussions > Misc. Chit-Chat


Reply
 
Thread Tools
  #21  
Old August 2nd, 2013, 03:01 PM
lordhelemt's Avatar
lordhelemt
Status: Offline
Paul
1995 D90 #2620 & NAS 110
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Arlington, VA
Posts: 1,113
Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanwind View Post
Anyone know the torque spec on the front wheel bearing/hub assembly nut?
I thinks it's 145lbs ish. Don't know off hand but can check after work tonight
__________________
RIP 1994 D90 #999 (engine fire 2002). We'll miss you.
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #22  
Old August 2nd, 2013, 03:31 PM
lordhelemt's Avatar
lordhelemt
Status: Offline
Paul
1995 D90 #2620 & NAS 110
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Arlington, VA
Posts: 1,113
Quote:
Originally Posted by lordhelemt View Post

I thinks it's 145lbs ish. Don't know off hand but can check after work tonight
Actually it may be more than that. I'm remembering I had to get a new torque wrench. I could be off by 100lbs. Ill check and post tonight
__________________
RIP 1994 D90 #999 (engine fire 2002). We'll miss you.
Reply With Quote
  #23  
Old August 2nd, 2013, 05:03 PM
lordhelemt's Avatar
lordhelemt
Status: Offline
Paul
1995 D90 #2620 & NAS 110
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Arlington, VA
Posts: 1,113
1 .
WARNING: Do not work on or under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Always support the vehicle on safety stands.
Raise and support the vehicle.
2 . Remove the wheel and tire.
3 . Remove the halfshaft retaining nut. Discard the nut.
4 .
CAUTION: Use a wrench on the hexagon provided to prevent the ball joint rotating.
Remove the stabilizer bar link nut. Remove and discard the nut.
5 . Release the brake hose bracket from the wheel knuckle. Remove the bolt.
Page 2 of 6Lower Arm
11/14/2003http://gtr.franchise.landrover.com/extdealerlrprod/xml/parsexml.jsp?XMLFile=G297351 ...

6 . Loosen the tie-rod end ball joint retaining nut.
7 .
CAUTION: Ensure the ball joint seal is not damaged. A damaged seal will lead to the premature failure of the joint.
Using the special tool, release the tie-rod end ball joint from the wheel knuckle. Discard the nut.
8 .
CAUTION: To prevent the wheel knuckle falling outwards and disconnection of the halfshaft inner joint, support the wheel knuckle.
Loosen the upper arm retaining nut.
9 .
CAUTION: Ensure the ball joint seal is not damaged. A damaged seal will lead to the premature failure of the joint.
Using the special tool, release the upper arm ball joint. Remove and discard the retaining nut.
10 . Using the special tools, release the halfshaft from the wheel hub.
Page 3 of 6Lower Arm
11/14/2003http://gtr.franchise.landrover.com/extdealerlrprod/xml/parsexml.jsp?XMLFile=G297351 ...

11 . Release the halfshaft from the wheel knuckle.
12 . Secure the halfshaft clear of the lower arm.
13 . Remove the lower ball joint retaining nut.
14 . Using the special tool, release the lower ball joint from the steering knuckle.
15 . Loosen the 2 lower arm bolts. Mark the position of the bolts in relation to the chassis brackets.
16 . Disconnect the shock absorber and spring assembly from the lower arm. Remove the nut and bolt.
17 . Remove the lower arm.
Page 4 of 6Lower Arm
11/14/2003http://gtr.franchise.landrover.com/extdealerlrprod/xml/parsexml.jsp?XMLFile=G297351 ...
Installation
1 . Install the lower arm. Fit the bolts but do not fully tighten at this stage.
2 . Connect the shock absorber and spring assembly to the lower arm. Tighten the nut and bolt to 300 Nm (221 lb.ft).
3 . Release the halfshaft.
4 . Using the special tools, install the halfshaft in the wheel hub.
5 . Connect the upper arm and wheel knuckle. Install a new nut and tighten to 70 Nm (52 lb.ft).
6 . Secure the stabilizer bar link. Install a new nut and tighten to 115 Nm (85 lb.ft).
7 . Connect the tie-rod end ball joint. Install a new nut and tighten to 70 Nm (52 lb.ft).
8 . Install a new halfshaft retaining nut and lightly tighten.
9 . Secure the brake hose retaining bracket to the wheel knuckle. Tighten the bolt to 25 Nm (18 lb.ft).
10 .
Page 5 of 6Lower Arm
11/14/2003http://gtr.franchise.landrover.com/extdealerlrprod/xml/parsexml.jsp?XMLFile=G297351 ...

Tighten the new halfshaft retaining nut to 350 Nm (258 lb.ft). Stake the nut to the halfshaft.
11 .

Set the height distance between the centre of the halfshaft end and the edge of the fender trim to 466 mm (18.34'').
12 . Tighten the lower arm bolts to 275 Nm (203 lb.ft). Align the bolts to the marks made previously.
13 . Install the wheel and tire. Tighten the wheel nuts to 140 Nm (103 lb.ft).
14 . Carry out the wheel alignment procedure.
__________________
RIP 1994 D90 #999 (engine fire 2002). We'll miss you.
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #24  
Old August 2nd, 2013, 06:08 PM
Broncoduecer's Avatar
Broncoduecer
Status: Offline
peter
D90
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: NV
Posts: 1,433
I don't believe I have ever torqued something to 258. Wowza
Reply With Quote
  #25  
Old August 2nd, 2013, 06:36 PM
Jymmiejamz's Avatar
Jymmiejamz
Status: Offline
Jimmy
1995 D90 SW #365
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Brooklyn, NY
Posts: 3,468
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanwind View Post
Anyone know the torque spec on the front wheel bearing/hub assembly nut?
As tight as your impact will tighten it, or just really fucking tight. I highly doubt anyone is going to over-tighten it, and there is a slot in the axle to hit the nut with a punch so it won't loosen. You should also replace the nut when you remove it. A hub should come with a new nut if it is from Land Rover.
Reply With Quote
  #26  
Old August 2nd, 2013, 09:20 PM
SMac's Avatar
SMac
Status: Offline
Sam
NAS 97 D90 SW
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Idaho
Posts: 1,766
Well, nothing like a 1.5 hour job turning into a 4 hour ordeal. Frankly, I dont see how the wheel bearing lasts more than a year. There is no seal between the hub assembly, CV, and knuckle. I would highly recommend a preventative replacement no later than 65k.



Click image for larger version

Name:	image-2578259715.jpg
Views:	61
Size:	536.8 KB
ID:	76858



Click image for larger version

Name:	image-3440720778.jpg
Views:	59
Size:	499.8 KB
ID:	76859



Click image for larger version

Name:	image-2096125403.jpg
Views:	58
Size:	649.2 KB
ID:	76860

Timken Hub Assembly. It did not come with the axle nut. Im told LR genuine is made by SKB, which is about the same price online.



Click image for larger version

Name:	image-4273250823.jpg
Views:	54
Size:	664.9 KB
ID:	76861

My new favorite tool. I dont know how I lived without a battery impact wrench. This sucker ate the axle nut and lug nuts for breakfast on old 18V nicads. $112 bones on Amazon without the batteries. Oh, and the axle nut is suppose to be at 169 I believe, or as was so eloquently said, BFing tight. The nut is 1 1/4 inch six point, not 32mm.



Click image for larger version

Name:	image-2655266963.jpg
Views:	59
Size:	584.3 KB
ID:	76862

If you dont already have a puller, I broke the rust seal with a double jack and used this bearing puller from OReillys. Im gonna buy one of these. Dont use a hub puller, it doesnt fit over the bore.



Click image for larger version

Name:	image-1258080688.jpg
Views:	59
Size:	546.7 KB
ID:	76863


3' HD special to get the 4 hub bolts off

I did not get into the control arms.
Reply With Quote
  #27  
Old August 2nd, 2013, 11:08 PM
nathanwind's Avatar
nathanwind
Status: Offline
Jason Lavender
88-90-127-LR3
D-90 Source Vendor
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Saratoga NY
Posts: 8,741
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by SMac View Post
Well, nothing like a 1.5 hour job turning into a 4 hour ordeal. Frankly, I dont see how the wheel bearing lasts more than a year. There is no seal between the hub assembly, CV, and knuckle. I would highly recommend a preventative replacement no later than 65k.

Timken Hub Assembly. It did not come with the axle nut. Im told LR genuine is made by SKB, which is about the same price online.

My new favorite tool. I dont know how I lived without a battery impact wrench. This sucker ate the axle nut and lug nuts for breakfast on old 18V nicads. $112 bones on Amazon without the batteries. Oh, and the axle nut is suppose to be at 169 I believe, or as was so eloquently said, BFing tight. The nut is 1 1/4 inch six point, not 32mm.

If you dont already have a puller, I broke the rust seal with a double jack and used this bearing puller from OReillys. Im gonna buy one of these. Dont use a hub puller, it doesnt fit over the bore.

3' HD special to get the 4 hub bolts off

I did not get into the control arms.
Glad to see I'm not the only one that had fun today - banged out brake pads/rotors at all 4 corners, both lower control arms, and did the front bearings using the same Timken set you showed above. Started about 9:30am, 2 trips to the parts stores, 1/2 hour for lunch, and wrapped up just before 7pm. Definitely a full day, but really not all that bad. But yes, without my SnapOn 1/2" gun and air tools would have been a bit of a bear to get done. However I used the air chisel to drive the front half-shaft backwards out of the current front bearing/hub (rather than a puller to get it off)

I got lazy and skipped doing the rear wheel bearings, they need to be pressed out/in and just frankly didn't feel like wrapping it into a 2nd day since I was on borrowed time (and shop space). Hopefully they have less stress on them since they're not "turning" under load and I can get 150K out of them . Has anyone had the rear bearings fail, or is it more often the fronts?
__________________
Jason Lavender
'71 Series IIA
'88 127 #F96 DKN
'94 90 NAS #324
'06 LR3 HSE

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

(10% discount for DSource members, use coupon code "D90")

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reply With Quote
  #28  
Old August 3rd, 2013, 10:44 AM
Jymmiejamz's Avatar
Jymmiejamz
Status: Offline
Jimmy
1995 D90 SW #365
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Brooklyn, NY
Posts: 3,468
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanwind View Post
Glad to see I'm not the only one that had fun today - banged out brake pads/rotors at all 4 corners, both lower control arms, and did the front bearings using the same Timken set you showed above. Started about 9:30am, 2 trips to the parts stores, 1/2 hour for lunch, and wrapped up just before 7pm. Definitely a full day, but really not all that bad. But yes, without my SnapOn 1/2" gun and air tools would have been a bit of a bear to get done. However I used the air chisel to drive the front half-shaft backwards out of the current front bearing/hub (rather than a puller to get it off)

I got lazy and skipped doing the rear wheel bearings, they need to be pressed out/in and just frankly didn't feel like wrapping it into a 2nd day since I was on borrowed time (and shop space). Hopefully they have less stress on them since they're not "turning" under load and I can get 150K out of them . Has anyone had the rear bearings fail, or is it more often the fronts?
The only time I've seen a rear wheel bearing fail is when someone didn't properly adjust the rear parking brake when doing rear rotors, and the parking brake shoes came apart and got so hot that is damaged the wheel bearing. They are not fun to replace.
Reply With Quote
  #29  
Old August 3rd, 2013, 12:08 PM
navydevildoc's Avatar
navydevildoc
Status: Offline
Neill Thornton
1984 D90 300 Tdi / 1965 Series IIA
Site Team
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 1,586
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanwind View Post
I got lazy and skipped doing the rear wheel bearings, they need to be pressed out/in and just frankly didn't feel like wrapping it into a 2nd day since I was on borrowed time (and shop space). Hopefully they have less stress on them since they're not "turning" under load and I can get 150K out of them . Has anyone had the rear bearings fail, or is it more often the fronts?
I've purchased one bearing for the right rear... I had some crazy wheel wobble that in the end turned out to be a badly balanced wheel in combination with the destroyed upper control arm. When I put the new BFG KOs on last week the wobble went away, so I don't think I have a bearing problem anymore. When I have it all apart to change the control arm I might just press the bearing out to be real sure.
__________________
"It doesn't swoop, curve, or look like it's going fast when it's parked. It never looks like it's going fast. It doesn't go fast." - Richard Hammond, BBC Top Gear


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reply With Quote
  #30  
Old August 3rd, 2013, 12:26 PM
nathanwind's Avatar
nathanwind
Status: Offline
Jason Lavender
88-90-127-LR3
D-90 Source Vendor
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Saratoga NY
Posts: 8,741
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by navydevildoc View Post
I've purchased one bearing for the right rear... I had some crazy wheel wobble that in the end turned out to be a badly balanced wheel in combination with the destroyed upper control arm. When I put the new BFG KOs on last week the wobble went away, so I don't think I have a bearing problem anymore. When I have it all apart to change the control arm I might just press the bearing out to be real sure.
What caused the damage to the rear upper arm?
__________________
Jason Lavender
'71 Series IIA
'88 127 #F96 DKN
'94 90 NAS #324
'06 LR3 HSE

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

(10% discount for DSource members, use coupon code "D90")

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reply With Quote
  #31  
Old August 3rd, 2013, 01:22 PM
navydevildoc's Avatar
navydevildoc
Status: Offline
Neill Thornton
1984 D90 300 Tdi / 1965 Series IIA
Site Team
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 1,586
Registry
The bushings wore out after 150,000 miles, many of them offroad, some at high speed in the desert...
__________________
"It doesn't swoop, curve, or look like it's going fast when it's parked. It never looks like it's going fast. It doesn't go fast." - Richard Hammond, BBC Top Gear


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reply With Quote
  #32  
Old August 3rd, 2013, 01:34 PM
SMac's Avatar
SMac
Status: Offline
Sam
NAS 97 D90 SW
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Idaho
Posts: 1,766
Quote:
Originally Posted by navydevildoc View Post

I've purchased one bearing for the right rear... I had some crazy wheel wobble that in the end turned out to be a badly balanced wheel in combination with the destroyed upper control arm. When I put the new BFG KOs on last week the wobble went away, so I don't think I have a bearing problem anymore. When I have it all apart to change the control arm I might just press the bearing out to be real sure.
What size tires did you go with? Im debating a rod/electric lift and larger tires.
Reply With Quote
  #33  
Old August 3rd, 2013, 02:40 PM
navydevildoc's Avatar
navydevildoc
Status: Offline
Neill Thornton
1984 D90 300 Tdi / 1965 Series IIA
Site Team
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 1,586
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by SMac View Post
What size tires did you go with? Im debating a rod/electric lift and larger tires.
I've had 275/65 R18s on for a while now. Made the switch from Goodyear MTR to BFG A/T KOs just last week. I like them better so far.

I have the sasquatch rod kit, which is adjustable to allow you to tweak things to your liking.
__________________
"It doesn't swoop, curve, or look like it's going fast when it's parked. It never looks like it's going fast. It doesn't go fast." - Richard Hammond, BBC Top Gear


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reply With Quote
  #34  
Old August 3rd, 2013, 03:22 PM
SMac's Avatar
SMac
Status: Offline
Sam
NAS 97 D90 SW
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Idaho
Posts: 1,766
Quote:
Originally Posted by navydevildoc View Post

I've had 275/65 R18s on for a while now. Made the switch from Goodyear MTR to BFG A/T KOs just last week. I like them better so far.

I have the sasquatch rod kit, which is adjustable to allow you to tweak things to your liking.
Any issues? Ive read some stories about control arm/air bag issues with the lifts but of course the internets is filled with misinformation.
Reply With Quote
  #35  
Old August 13th, 2013, 10:48 PM
Broncoduecer's Avatar
Broncoduecer
Status: Offline
peter
D90
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: NV
Posts: 1,433
I just ordered my lower arms, bearings, and brakes for the front. Should be a good day! I imagine since my brakes aren't bad yet, no sensor warning, just doing it since I am there, that I can reuse the sensors. Should be fun!
Reply With Quote
  #36  
Old August 13th, 2013, 10:56 PM
nathanwind's Avatar
nathanwind
Status: Offline
Jason Lavender
88-90-127-LR3
D-90 Source Vendor
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Saratoga NY
Posts: 8,741
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Broncoduecer View Post
I just ordered my lower arms, bearings, and brakes for the front. Should be a good day! I imagine since my brakes aren't bad yet, no sensor warning, just doing it since I am there, that I can reuse the sensors. Should be fun!
My sensor went off like 2 days before I did the brakes, and was surprised to find that it reset itself when I put the new sensor in. It's really not that bad to do, and I've found that the plastic in them becomes brittle over time so there's a chance you may need to do them anyhow (I broke my rear one taking it apart).

As I mentioned, it was definitely a full day when I did all of the above...normally if you're taking your time I'd imagine it would creep into a 2nd day.

Oh, and I got genuine LR rotors & pads...opened the genuine pads box and was surprised to find they were actually Ferodo!
__________________
Jason Lavender
'71 Series IIA
'88 127 #F96 DKN
'94 90 NAS #324
'06 LR3 HSE

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

(10% discount for DSource members, use coupon code "D90")

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reply With Quote
  #37  
Old August 13th, 2013, 11:24 PM
Broncoduecer's Avatar
Broncoduecer
Status: Offline
peter
D90
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: NV
Posts: 1,433
I noticed that on the bp Utah site they show the genuine pads and you can see ferodo on the pad. Interesting! I wondered if that was true or not.

I was also wondering on the sensors, I have a good amount of pad left. I guess I'll see what happens when I get in there. I imagine its not much to get back into it if the sensors aren't good.
Reply With Quote
  #38  
Old August 14th, 2013, 12:22 AM
SMac's Avatar
SMac
Status: Offline
Sam
NAS 97 D90 SW
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Idaho
Posts: 1,766
Front sensor at the wheel is easy peazy...no removal of any hardware to remove/install. The other end is the pain...I took off the wheel well liner finally rather than guess and possibly break the connector trying to disconnect blindly.

Here's what the connector looks like (lower with two red wires) under the plastic for those who want to go fishing:
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_3298.jpg
Views:	54
Size:	96.0 KB
ID:	77629  
Reply With Quote
  #39  
Old August 14th, 2013, 08:19 AM
lordhelemt's Avatar
lordhelemt
Status: Offline
Paul
1995 D90 #2620 & NAS 110
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Arlington, VA
Posts: 1,113
I terminated my sensors. Just strip and wire nut the 2 together. Much faster than chasing down the plug and easily reversed.
__________________
RIP 1994 D90 #999 (engine fire 2002). We'll miss you.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Lower Navigation
Go Back   Defender Source > Non-Technical Discussions > Misc. Chit-Chat

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Hard Brake Line to Caliper founD90 Defender Technical Discussions 8 June 29th, 2013 03:42 PM
Brake Caliper grbec22 Defender Technical Discussions 10 March 31st, 2011 07:24 AM
Range Rover Front Brake Caliper Question TDI Guy Misc. Chit-Chat 10 May 24th, 2006 08:14 PM
Bad Servo? dfscott Defender Technical Discussions 0 March 25th, 2006 02:09 PM
Rear brake caliper leak cgalpin Defender Technical Discussions 11 July 8th, 2005 11:56 AM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:19 PM.


Copyright