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  #1  
Old November 13th, 2013, 12:19 PM
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LR3 - 05, 06, 07, etc

It appears the prices for the LR3 have really started to come down. Could someone refresh me on what years to look for or to stay away from? Any other tidbits of info are welcomed. My goal is to find a 7-seater V-8 with 60 to 70,000 miles that spent its life away from the salt belt. If you know of one, please shoot me a PM.

Could someone run this VIN and PM the results? Thanks. SALAG25476A400379
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  #2  
Old November 13th, 2013, 06:56 PM
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http://www.carfax.com/VehicleHistory...182&source=CFX
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  #3  
Old November 13th, 2013, 07:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by down_shift View Post
Could someone refresh me on what years to look for or to stay away from?
Most people I have talked to say get '06 and up...the Jag motored V8.
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  #4  
Old November 13th, 2013, 07:47 PM
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Def jag motor, they may have changed the air suspension as well early models have control arm bushing issues and i think there were some issues with rear diffs people love these trucks and they are impressive offroad, id buyone for a chick jymmiejamzz probably has a lot of info

------ Follow up post added November 13th, 2013 07:48 PM ------

new droid hates posting, ill have to get an ipad for the shitter
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Old November 13th, 2013, 07:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by down_shift View Post
It appears the prices for the LR3 have really started to come down. Could someone refresh me on what years to look for or to stay away from? Any other tidbits of info are welcomed. My goal is to find a 7-seater V-8 with 60 to 70,000 miles that spent its life away from the salt belt. If you know of one, please shoot me a PM.

Could someone run this VIN and PM the results? Thanks. SALAG25476A400379
So if you get one, I get one, Goose has one, Billy has one, Lav too, and .Charles...(I may be missing some)

Will anyone ever drive a coil sprung truck to HH?
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Old November 13th, 2013, 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Ray_G View Post

So if you get one, I get one, Goose has one, Billy has one, Lav too, and .Charles...(I may be missing some)

Will anyone ever drive a coil sprung truck to HH?
Loic and Jeff
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  #7  
Old November 13th, 2013, 08:34 PM
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Loic and Jeff
We could start a Disco 3/4 HH....
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  #8  
Old November 13th, 2013, 08:48 PM
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Thank you for pulling.
Wow - dealer alignment performed at 23k, 25k and 29k? What is up with these LR3/4s?
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  #9  
Old November 13th, 2013, 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by down_shift View Post
Thank you for pulling.
Wow - dealer alignment performed at 23k, 25k and 29k? What is up with these LR3/4s?
They need to be properly aligned for sure-first alignment was likely needed, 2nd was likely predicated off the tires going on, 3rd was after its next sale. Personal opinion: 2nd owner had bulbs replaced by the dealership-likely was both mechanically unsympathetic and willing to pay for it (hence 2x tires at mid-20k). Thus the 2nd & 3rd make sense on context.
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Old November 13th, 2013, 08:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by down_shift View Post
It appears the prices for the LR3 have really started to come down. Could someone refresh me on what years to look for or to stay away from? Any other tidbits of info are welcomed. My goal is to find a 7-seater V-8 with 60 to 70,000 miles that spent its life away from the salt belt. If you know of one, please shoot me a PM.

Could someone run this VIN and PM the results? Thanks. SALAG25476A400379
Stay away from the 05's. They seem to be more troublesome, plagued with typical first production year issues. FYI- the Jaguar 4.4 is not unique to 06+ model years- they were used in the 05' model years as well. The ZF 6HP26 is an outstanding transmission with proven performance in both the BMW 7-series, and even the Hyundai Genesis.

Common failures/replacements with ownership (from what I've gathered):

-Control Arms (bad OEM bushing design; improved version now available, and is said to provide longer life). Cheaper to replace the entire arm unless you have the tools and the time.

-Parking Sensors. ~$120 each to replace, and depending on location- bumper may have to be removed. Corrosion causes the failure, so "dry climate" cars seem to have less issues with this.

-Brakes. The weight of the LR3 means that it goes through brakes like candy. Total brake replacement is ~$650 in parts (OEM pads are recommended by those who have tried other brands), and ~$1400 (parts included) for an Indy shop to do the work. Just had mine done two weeks ago, and they seem to last around 25-35k miles (depending on city vs. hwy, and driving style of course).

-Parking Brake Module fault. No degradation whatsoever to the parking brake functionality, but causes an amber "PARK BRAKE' illuminator to remain on whether the PB is on or not. Irritating when every new passenger screams "your parking brake is on". A failing power line from a wiring loom leading to the PB Control Module is often the culprit.

-Air suspension. Compressor failure is common, and so are plumbing air leaks. Fortunately, most of the issues were found and corrected while most of these cars were under warranty; having been replaced with improved parts.

I've really enjoyed the LR3, and believe it's a much better deal than the market pricing would suggest. Hard to find a true 7-passenger (6 ft +), cargo carrying, handsome, fun to drive, 7500 lb towing, fuel efficient (can get 20mpg on hwy) SUV for less than $15,000. Not to even mention it's off road capability. I followed one on the trails at Wintergreen last year and afterward, the driver said he felt "guilty" about how little he had to work the trails…

Strongly recommended.

------ Follow up post added November 13th, 2013 07:05 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray_G View Post
They need to be properly aligned for sure-first alignment was likely needed, 2nd was likely predicated off the tires going on, 3rd was after its next sale. Personal opinion: 2nd owner had bulbs replaced by the dealership-likely was both mechanically unsympathetic and willing to pay for it (hence 2x tires at mid-20k). Thus the 2nd & 3rd make sense on context.
Word of advice here- do NOT let your local tire store align these vehicles. There are factory alignment procedures unique to the LR3 (air suspension) that even the most competent of tire wrenches are oblivious to.
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  #11  
Old November 13th, 2013, 10:12 PM
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FWIW, I was 'strongly recommended' to get an '08 or newer, so I bought an '08.

It's been the most reliable LR I've owned (it's my fifth).

Plenty out there, so finding a good one shouldn't be too difficult?
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  #12  
Old November 13th, 2013, 10:31 PM
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They're all good in my opinion. I would never own an '05 because the front of the drivers seat does not raise up and down, and it drives me nuts. I know this is unreasonable. For the most part they are all pretty much the same. Expect brakes and tires every 20-35k miles. The diffs make noise, but rarely catostrophically fail. I would definitely recommend changing the diff fluids as soon as you get it, and it will probably be good for a long time. They have a lot of common problems, but none are that big of a deal in my opinion.

From what I've seen they don't really have any rust problems like older Land Rovers. I don't see a ton from the rust belt, but the ones I do see don't have holes in the frame or anything like that. A rusty one would just be annoying for whoever does the alignments.

I'd be leery of ones worked on by independent shops that do not specialize in Land Rovers, as there are a lot of things that are easy to screw up such as rear brakes. An improperly adjusted rear parking brake can cause the parking brake shoes to overheat and break apart which destroys the rotor and can also melt the cables from the parking brake actuator. Replacing the parking brake actuator is not cheap, and is not a fun task.
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  #13  
Old November 13th, 2013, 10:55 PM
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Besides the few normal things people have mentioned my 07 has been incredibly reliable. I really love the LR3.
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  #14  
Old November 13th, 2013, 11:04 PM
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There's really nothing wrong with any of the years. The '05 did have a few issues with alignment from the factory, the fuel tank recall, steering stop adj., EAS Compressor etc but you'd be hard pressed to find one that hadn't already had all if them corrected by now.

'05s came mis-aligned in the rear and tore through tires in 10-20k miles frequently. Land Rover knew about this and compensated people for excess tire wear and paid to align the vehicle correctly so don't be surprised to see early alignments and tire replacements when looking at early LR3s.
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Old November 14th, 2013, 12:06 AM
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I have a 2005 LR3 and it has been completely trouble free. There is no good reason to avoid 2005 MY. People here think that because that was the first year the LR3 was sold in North America that that was the first year of production. Wrong! LR manufactured and sold the vehicle for a full year in Europe before starting exports to NA. So 2005 was in fact the second year of production. And the V8 engine was the same 4.4 Jaguar AJ-V8 for all MYs from 2004 to 2009, up to the introduction of the LR4. If you get an LR3 SE that has a V6 in it, however, that is a Ford-sourced engine of long standing. Both are good engines, but the V6 offers no real fuel economy savings over the V8.

My only gripe with the LR3 is the lamentable fuel consumption. My city driving MPG in NYC is less than 13 MPG, and in my books that is terrible in this day and age. If LR only had the wits to sell the LR3/4 with the excellent TDV6 diesel here,, I would have bought that instead in a microsecond. The LR3 is a great vehicle, and I have no regrets, but the fuel consumption is a throwback to the 70s. And while premium unleaded is "recommended" and not required, you do notice an irritating lag in the engine when using lower grade fuel. So expect to be filling up often with 93 grade.

My .02 pence ...
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Old November 14th, 2013, 07:14 AM
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I had an 06 LR3 and loved that truck. Black on tan, It was the wife's daily driver. I liked the heavy tank like driving feel of it but I do not miss putting gas, tires or $1,400 brake jobs into it. Once the air compressor failed and the rear hatch broke we traded it. They wanted like $1,000 to fix the latch in the rear door, that did it for me. If it wasn't for things going out at 70K I'd still have it, and do miss it sometimes a lot. Wife wanted a loaded Grand Cherokee...I know what your thinking, not Chrysler. But the Jeep has been a good SUV for her, no LR3 though. If it wasn't for stupid costs on repairs, I'd get another.
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Old November 14th, 2013, 07:49 AM
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When you considered the additional sales tax on the purchase of a new vehicle, insurance and property tax compared to the cost of repairs was the variance significant or close to breakeven? I struggle with these types of sunk costs every time.

Clay
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Old November 14th, 2013, 08:06 AM
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What is so special about brake jobs on these trucks?
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  #19  
Old November 14th, 2013, 09:52 AM
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If you're not buying one from a private party, I would recommend getting it from a Land Rover dealership... if the rest of them are like ours, we go through our trades with a fine tooth comb... especially LR3's...

Almost every LR3 that we take in has issues with the diff or air suspension... take it for a spin and listen for noises... also find some rough spots and listen for knocking up front, which means the control arms (Ithink that's what they're called) need to be fixed... I'm a sales guide, not a tech

Usually if you ask, they'll be up front with you about what the car needs, and I've seen the repair bills exceed $10k on these vehicles quite a few times...
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Old November 14th, 2013, 10:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1of40 View Post
When you considered the additional sales tax on the purchase of a new vehicle, insurance and property tax compared to the cost of repairs was the variance significant or close to breakeven? I struggle with these types of sunk costs every time.

Clay

I guess every situation could be different, but for me when I started seeing multiple repairs needed I decided to bail and put that money towards a new car. $1,300 for Air Compressor, $1,000 for a latch to get my $200 worth of groceries out of the rear, then brakes, and so on I just said give me my $18k on trade and get back into a warranty. Ironically my insurance fell $20/mth on brand new Jeep vs. 06 LR3 with same coverage.
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