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  #21  
Old November 14th, 2013, 10:32 AM
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Jafir Elkurd
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WD90 View Post
If you're not buying one from a private party, I would recommend getting it from a Land Rover dealership... if the rest of them are like ours, we go through our trades with a fine tooth comb... especially LR3's...
This explains the difference between a $10,000 LR3 and an $18,000 LR3 both being 2006.

I have noticed that some used car dealers will attempt to price their cars on the high side like what the Land Rover dealers offer, but they still have broken air suspension, bad bushings, and who knows what else, and then they refuse to fix any of it.
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  #22  
Old November 14th, 2013, 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by rover4x4 View Post
What is so special about brake jobs on these trucks?
The brake disc is also the parking brake drum. It uses brake shoes for the parking brake instead of using a drum on the transfer box or just using the brake pads. When they aren't adjusted properly the parking brake shoes will fall apart causing the brake to lock up. There is a simple yet very specific procedure to adjusting the parking brake shoes when doing a brake job.
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  #23  
Old November 14th, 2013, 11:57 AM
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Loic Fabro
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My V6 '06 LR3 has been fairly reliable. I have the 7-seat version and this is why we got this guy. Got it from a private seller with still some factory warranty and an extended warranty. Here is what had to be fixed so far (from what I remember):
- steering wheel (leather) was replaced because the run burnt the top of it (must have been a very bad one)
- set of tires x2 (LR3 seem to eat through tires like crazy, the 19" rim size does not have much options in term of what tire you can get [road style/all season tires])
- alternator died ($150 at advance auto I think for a remanufactured one with lifetime warranty)
- rear door latch broke (replaced under extended warranty; seems to be a common issue)
- front brakes ( -> I only did the pads; There was no reason to do the disks for me; watch out on that front, shop would do both by default, but if you do maintenance yourself and watch regularly what your vehicle need, this is worth it)
- lower control arms will go around 80K miles => went with full arm replacement with OEM RRS supercharged arms (supposed to live longer; I did not go with rebuilt arms you can find on Rock auto because you can't say if it's the "new design" or the "old design"... Probably should have since it was likely cheaper)
- My compressor got replaced under warranty because we said it was making noise.
- rear diff seals (seal?) => make sure you replace the seals if you see any leak. Missing oil = rapid failure (and there is very little oil in there when compared to a D90 axle.....)

Rust wise, you can see that the underside is rusting. I don't think the Lr3 is better than the Disco in term of "chassis" rust. But.... We will see how this goes in a few years....

The only big gripe I have about the LR3 is that the computer setup is done in a way that you pretty much have to go to the dealership to reset anything. A few things I found out:
- newer model ('08 + ???) can have the maintenance reminder reset manually (vs. Dealership computer or bying a $100 device that plugs to your truck computer)
- LR dealership will not service the vehicle unless the service is around $1K (ok.... Often steams from the hourly rates.... Still can't explain why this has to cost so much)
- transmission is rock solid also used in BMW X5. Oil and part avail in a lot of places (without the LR markup). On my truck, I have a plastic/filter pan which I will replace by metal pan + separate filter to ease maintenance when I do the transmission oil flush/replacement.
- maintenance manuals can not be had on paper. -but- the disco3.co.uk site has pretty much every step documented and a huge following; you can pay for online access to the factory manual; some folks have pulled an older version of the LR3 maintenance manual online in a few places (not 100% accurate, but if it was good then, it can't be that bad now).
- if you are willing to put money into it, devices can be purchased to help with the computer stuff.
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  #24  
Old November 15th, 2013, 04:51 PM
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Jafir Elkurd
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MonLand View Post
I did not go with rebuilt arms you can find on Rock auto because you can't say if it's the "new design" or the "old design"... Probably should have since it was likely cheaper)
The arms don't appear to be "rebuilt" they appear to be new, "pattern" parts.

The reason I say this, is that my old arms have land rover ovals etched into them, and the doorman arms from rockauto (or amazon in my case) don't have this.
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  #25  
Old November 15th, 2013, 05:09 PM
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Dave Sherwood
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Love my '06.

Contrary to the other posts...the tires on mine have gone 60k! Not sure how...

Had a control arm replaced and the rear diff went...but I drive it REALLY hard...so not complaints.
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Current Rovers:
1994 D-90 ST #734
2006 LR3
2016 RRS

Past Rovers:
1997 Disco I
1988 Range Rover 40th Anniversary
1999 Disco II
1995 D-90 ST #2731
1997 Range Rover 4.6 HSE Vitesse
2003 Range Rover HSE
2008 RRS
2013 RRS
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  #26  
Old November 15th, 2013, 05:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DMSLongLake View Post
Love my '06.

Contrary to the other posts...the tires on mine have gone 60k! Not sure how...

Had a control arm replaced and the rear diff went...but I drive it REALLY hard...so not complaints.
60k on the original Good-for-one-year HP's or 60k on another brand of tire? I'm not sure if there were other brands on some of them.
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  #27  
Old November 15th, 2013, 06:08 PM
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Dave Sherwood
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Hankook Ventus A/S

I had those POS HPs on my RRS and they lasted a whole 12k
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Current Rovers:
1994 D-90 ST #734
2006 LR3
2016 RRS

Past Rovers:
1997 Disco I
1988 Range Rover 40th Anniversary
1999 Disco II
1995 D-90 ST #2731
1997 Range Rover 4.6 HSE Vitesse
2003 Range Rover HSE
2008 RRS
2013 RRS
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  #28  
Old November 15th, 2013, 06:56 PM
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Sam
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If you do your own work, this truck is great. For example, someone above said they paid $1k for the rear latch replacement...I bought a genuine one for $55 online and 2 hours later had it fixed. Same with front hubs, oil changes, arms, etc. And again, there are step by step tutorials for all common issues online.

And like any other luxury import including a Defender, it will eat you alive if you don't do your own work.

My Bridgestone Alenzas lasted 50k. Brakes last 50k. Nothing weird or different about this truck if you don't rally it.
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  #29  
Old November 15th, 2013, 07:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SMac View Post
If you do your own work, this truck is great. For example, someone above said they paid $1k for the rear latch replacement...I bought a genuine one for $55 online and 2 hours later had it fixed. Same with front hubs, oil changes, arms, etc. And again, there are step by step tutorials for all common issues online.

And like any other luxury import including a Defender, it will eat you alive if you don't do your own work.

My Bridgestone Alenzas lasted 50k. Brakes last 50k. Nothing weird or different about this truck if you don't rally it.
$55?? I bought a metal braket at Home Depot for $0.50 and rigged it up myself to fix the latch .

But yes, work on it yourself and it's not so bad.
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  #30  
Old November 15th, 2013, 07:22 PM
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Sam
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanwind View Post
$55?? I bought a metal braket at Home Depot for $0.50 and rigged it up myself to fix the latch . But yes, work on it yourself and it's not so bad.
Ok, so some of us don't like the ghetto rig fixes.

Besides, doesn't it cost you $50 in gas just to drive the 5 miles to get the bracket in the Defender?
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  #31  
Old November 15th, 2013, 07:37 PM
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The nice thing about LR3's is that they don't have a lot of problems, but the problems they do have are well documented and pretty easy to diagnose and repair. I can't think of anything on an LR3 that is really difficult to repair.
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  #32  
Old November 17th, 2013, 05:44 PM
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Anthony Nelson
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Russell, you have PM.
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  #33  
Old November 17th, 2013, 07:47 PM
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And with that said....I developed a new noise in my 08 LR3. It sounds like a loud rattle/rocks in a tin can on cold start. Google says others have this issue as well, and there is some vague mention of tensioners of some sort on each bank that are failing. Not to scare off the OP, but anyone have this issue as well? I thought I had it all under control...arms, tires, battery, brakes, wheel hubs, bearings, roof leak, rear door latch, and air compressor on a "reliable" year. Just like a Rover to spring this on me.
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  #34  
Old November 17th, 2013, 08:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SMac View Post
And with that said....I developed a new noise in my 08 LR3. It sounds like a loud rattle/rocks in a tin can on cold start. Google says others have this issue as well, and there is some vague mention of tensioners of some sort on each bank that are failing. Not to scare off the OP, but anyone have this issue as well? I thought I had it all under control...arms, tires, battery, brakes, wheel hubs, bearings, roof leak, rear door latch, and air compressor on a "reliable" year. Just like a Rover to spring this on me.
Are you sure people weren't talking about 5.0L trucks? Timing chain issues are common on those, but I've never seen it on an 4.4L.
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  #35  
Old November 17th, 2013, 09:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SMac View Post
And with that said....I developed a new noise in my 08 LR3. It sounds like a loud rattle/rocks in a tin can on cold start. Google says others have this issue as well, and there is some vague mention of tensioners of some sort on each bank that are failing. Not to scare off the OP, but anyone have this issue as well? I thought I had it all under control...arms, tires, battery, brakes, wheel hubs, bearings, roof leak, rear door latch, and air compressor on a "reliable" year. Just like a Rover to spring this on me.
Any chance it's the cats? Have a friend with an '08, and when I did his brakes I diagnosed something that sounds very similar and i think was in his cats (though it was more under load than at startup).
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  #36  
Old November 17th, 2013, 09:12 PM
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Brian Kandefer
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Cats should be under warranty still! I believe 10 years and 120k contact your local dealer and they will replace for free.
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  #37  
Old November 17th, 2013, 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Brewie212 View Post
Cats should be under warranty still! I believe 10 years and 120k contact your local dealer and they will replace for free.
I thought it was 8/80k?
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  #38  
Old November 17th, 2013, 09:34 PM
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Might be my 05 HSE is 10/120
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  #39  
Old November 17th, 2013, 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Brewie212 View Post
Might be my 05 HSE is 10/120
Is there any documentation out there on this?
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  #40  
Old November 17th, 2013, 09:57 PM
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Originally Posted by nathanwind View Post
Is there any documentation out there on this?
just call your local dealer. I just had my done this week, dealing with other issues but they warrantied them.
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