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  #21  
Old January 2nd, 2013, 07:42 PM
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Joshua
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neil McCauley View Post
What if you just disconnected all the wiring, blow each side out with air and clean with brush/sand paper and apply di-electric grease liberally to all the contact points and then restart with new ECU's/sensors etc? (Providing the wiring contacts are still good)
I'll bet there is a good amount of salt water that got into the gas tank, engine, etc. etc. gaskets may quickly corrode, and that any wires that last in the short term will likely corrode fairly quickly in the not-too-long term, since the wiring harnesses seem to corrode even without being submerged in seawater...
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  #22  
Old January 2nd, 2013, 07:48 PM
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Bill Adams
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neil McCauley View Post
What if you just disconnected all the wiring, blow each side out with air and clean with brush/sand paper and apply di-electric grease liberally to all the contact points and then restart with new ECU's/sensors etc? (Providing the wiring contacts are still good)
The salt water has wicked up inside of every wire, connector, motor, switch. All electrical parts; wires, lights, dash, heater air conditioner, you name it, are now garbage or soon will be.
Salt water has infused the seats, and all the soft materials including insulation. It has ruined the brake system too, and the engine and transmission.
Not much to save there.
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1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
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  #23  
Old January 2nd, 2013, 07:50 PM
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Neil McCauley
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rijosho View Post
I'll bet there is a good amount of salt water that got into the gas tank, engine, etc. etc. gaskets may quickly corrode, and that any wires that last in the short term will likely corrode fairly quickly in the not-too-long term, since the wiring harnesses seem to corrode even without being submerged in seawater...

I forgot to mention dumping/flushing/filling any / all fluids. mabye an engine re-seal with heads etc. I'd try it since you'd have nothing to lose by then except for a few hundred bucks.
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  #24  
Old January 3rd, 2013, 07:25 AM
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Does any of this vary on how long the car was actually submerged?

The electronics I could see having to be replaced, but shouldn't the frame easily withstand a week underwater without much happening to it?
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  #25  
Old January 3rd, 2013, 08:07 AM
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Ed, when a boat, or in this case, a car, goes under, a rapid sequence of salvage must take place immediately. How long it has been under is a concern, but more important is how long it has been out of the water and what has been done to it. The engine(s) must be drained of coolant and oil. The fuel system has to be flushed (which in the case of the in-tank fuel pump means replacing it, but the wire harness is effed, so that has to be replaced first before running the new fuel pump. And oh, all the other electronics are fried so new ECU, injectors, and MAS and....) and the engine started right away to drive out the moisture. Several oil changes must be done with the engine getting up to temp between each one. Ditto the gearbox and transfer case.
With this being an aluminum engine, the cooling system will also need several flushes or else the salt will go after the alloy and you'll get aluminum salts clogging up the passages.
About all that is of any value on a vehicle that has gone into salt water is the frame, body panels and maybe the axles and suspension if they all get a huge flushing with clear fresh water. All else is not worth the effort required to recover it if it has been more than 24 hours before remediation.
A boat is usually a lot less work to recover due to the fact that most of its systems are meant to live in a salt water environment, even short submersion, and it has fewer systems. Usually the electrical gizmos, wiring and all the living and comfort goods get tossed. The engines "pickled" right after recovery. Replacing those items is cost effective.
In many cases it is actually better to leave the thing under until all is in place for a full recovery. Once it is out of the water and in the air, the oxygen goes to work. In the case of the storm submersion, the water went away rather quickly. This means that unless someone jumped on this the next day and started the long and laborious process of reclaiming it, it is a goner.
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1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"
1968 2A 88

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  #26  
Old January 3rd, 2013, 08:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by "o2batsea
About all that is of any value on a vehicle that has gone into salt water is the frame, body panels and maybe the axles and suspension if they all get a huge flushing with clear fresh water.
And in this case the NAS Soft top cage, Badger top (if still in good working order with good windows - not sure what the salt does to that in the short term or if they can be salvaged easily with water and polish), VIN, 3rd brake light bar for Jeff Briggs, etc.
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  #27  
Old January 3rd, 2013, 09:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
About all that is of any value on a vehicle that has gone into salt water is the frame, body panels and maybe the axles and suspension if they all get a huge flushing with clear fresh water.
So it does seem like a trip to Raush Creek is needed to clean the truck then!
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  #28  
Old January 3rd, 2013, 10:03 AM
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At least Rausch is fresh water.
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  #29  
Old January 3rd, 2013, 10:45 AM
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Bill, thanks - sounds like some work!
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  #30  
Old January 14th, 2013, 06:37 PM
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Here is another one, 1995 AA Yellow. 89k miles and it says it starts.

https://www.iaai.com/Vehicles/Vehicl...34&RowNumber=1


VIN:SALDV2285SA956470
VIN Status:OK
Body Style:WAGON 2 DOOR
Vehicle Class:Mini Sport Utility
Series:90
Manufactured in:UNITED KINGDOM
Exterior Color:YELLOW
Interior Color:BLACK
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  #31  
Old January 14th, 2013, 06:41 PM
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As I said to the guy whose D90 got flooded in Ike. A flood is like a trip to the pine barrens for a defender.
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  #32  
Old January 14th, 2013, 07:12 PM
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Jason Lavender
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
As I said to the guy whose D90 got flooded in Ike. A flood is like a trip to the pine barrens for a defender.
I've said the same. We flood ours at Rausch - on purpose - every couple months!
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  #33  
Old January 14th, 2013, 09:57 PM
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Daniel Marcello
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
As I said to the guy whose D90 got flooded in Ike. A flood is like a trip to the pine barrens for a defender.
hahahaha, mine should have monthly salvage titles at that rate.

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  #34  
Old January 14th, 2013, 10:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ini88 View Post
hahahaha, mine should have monthly salvage titles at that rate.

Outstanding. Is that a POE?
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'71 Series IIA
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'06 LR3 HSE

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  #35  
Old January 14th, 2013, 10:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ini88 View Post
hahahaha, mine should have monthly salvage titles at that rate.

Awesome.
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  #36  
Old January 14th, 2013, 11:46 PM
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These trucks would be an OK deal at $5000-7000.
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  #37  
Old January 14th, 2013, 11:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris snell
These trucks would be an OK deal at $5000-7000.
Come on. They are worth that in parts alone.
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Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
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  #38  
Old January 15th, 2013, 12:03 AM
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Originally Posted by bjf View Post
Come on. They are worth that in parts alone.
Hell, a good LHD dash setup is worth $2k+ itself.
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'71 Series IIA
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  #39  
Old January 15th, 2013, 09:38 AM
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Here is another one...out west...seems as if this one could possibly go for single digit 000's...maybe been moded a lot judging by Disco seats

https://www.iaai.com/Vehicles/Vehicl...50&RowNumber=2
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  #40  
Old January 15th, 2013, 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by 1971Series88 View Post
Here is another one...out west...seems as if this one could possibly go for single digit 000's...maybe been moded a lot judging by Disco seats

https://www.iaai.com/Vehicles/Vehicl...50&RowNumber=2
And the rollcage - can't tell if that's a burned up cage or not.
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