Just one axle, no engine and ist's from the island: something about Sankey trailers - Page 2 - Defender Source
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  #21  
Old August 6th, 2014, 05:10 PM
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Kurt Ohlendorf
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MkII version

Greasing the axle from the inside



Cranked handbrake lever



Space enough for the lever



Details













Reinstalled

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  #22  
Old August 6th, 2014, 05:50 PM
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Brake linkage

I like stainless steel as well as zink plated steel.
And I like the rear swinging fixing point only used on the narrow track Sankey. This is the reason why I use it on the wide track too.







Parts







Don't like the original knuckle joint. Replaced it by a ball joint.













Another greasing point





New bushes for a hardened axle (signed by hand, I like this details)







New design





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  #23  
Old August 6th, 2014, 06:35 PM
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Hubs and brakes

How it should like to be



Parts shown as they are after several years on duty





































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  #24  
Old August 6th, 2014, 07:38 PM
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To get the parts well done replaced it is necessary to have a look at the inner sealings.
There's a leather outer ring running inside the hub to provide the other one against water and dust. Just like a dust lip. Both are no more available!

Let's have a look at these parts.





Both of the two get dammaged while wrong assembled!
Have a look at these parts.
As shown in my pictures somtimes they are mounted the wrong way. The spring always has to show to the grease!

Zinc plated brake plate



Paper gasket, oil catcher









This centering tool is necessary to provide the hub to get into contact with the oil catcher.
Using socket screws this will be usefull





Inner seal



Setted by the same tool



Backside



Details











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  #25  
Old August 7th, 2014, 04:04 PM
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Brake adjuster parts



Clamped while not fixed



Mechanical brake cylinder















Be sure the grommet finds the groove! Grommets are out of stock.



------ Follow up post added August 7th, 2014 02:14 PM ------

Be sure the brake shoes are in the right position. This shows the left side.



To protect the inner bearing I use my centering tool.











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  #26  
Old August 7th, 2014, 04:45 PM
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Completing the hub

Parts



Cleaned hub



Needed tools



I'm not able to take pix while doing this:

Grease the bearings and the hub.
Fit the hub onto the axle to the inner bearing. Be sure not to distroy the outer leather seal nor the inner one. Take the smooth way and turn the hub.
Hold the hub in place and fit the outer bearing, followed by a washer and the nut.
Titen the nut while rotating the hub. It's well done if the washer is to be displaced by forcing it with a screw driver.
This is necessary to get the play out off the O- mounted tapered bearings.

Followed by the securing washer the second nut is to be fastened ...



... and secured by the securing washer.



Some more grease will do a very good job.



Fit the hub cap with a new paper gasket ...





... and reinstall the drum brake.





That's it in a nutshell.
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  #27  
Old August 7th, 2014, 05:32 PM
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Jockey wheel

The narrow track just has a supporting leg at the front.
All wide tracks (Mk II) have a jockey wheel positioned too close to the rear body!



First of all it has to be mounted on the left side for sure!
Second of all, it has to be turnable as like as the Mk III version!

Here we go:





































Yippyyayayippiyippyyeah!



But it's a lot of work to be done for this.
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  #28  
Old August 7th, 2014, 07:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arlo View Post

But it's a lot of work to be done for this.
That could be said for all of your projects! Nice work as always
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  #29  
Old August 8th, 2014, 04:13 PM
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Thanks Jimmy!

Forgot to mention:

This bracket has to be cut off. Be careful. First cut is the deepest!







I use it to cut the new designed bracket out of it.







Springloaded bolt to fix the jockey wheel:

Parts



Assembled ( the holding part has to be welded to the bracket)



After welding these parts ...



... they have to be turned out to a fitting diameter for the bushes!

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  #30  
Old August 8th, 2014, 04:51 PM
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Fitting a 130 tub to a Sankey frame

The inlays of the tub might be looking like that:



left original, right replaced items made of stainless steel



All these parts belong to the rear of the tub.











New fixings to the rear ...



... and both sides.



Overlook:



Welded on







Two rails are supporting the tub too.











Front fixings



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  #31  
Old August 8th, 2014, 05:06 PM
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Tub surgery









































------ Follow up post added August 8th, 2014 03:13 PM ------





















Special nuts to hold this advertisement part in position:







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  #32  
Old August 8th, 2014, 05:53 PM
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Wirering

I use the 12 pin Nato version!
It's waterproof.

Just running original to the first distributor.



Splitted into two lines the rear lights a serviced.
Just cut the original male pins, drill them out and solder the new line in!



Scenic overview



Details























The original fasteners are mostly corroded. So I put them into a aluminum tub, glued by something the Lord of Darkness never have seen. It works! No corrosion at all.
Please have a look:























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  #33  
Old August 9th, 2014, 03:38 PM
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Some more details:

To connect this huge triangel reflector (it's a must have in Europe) ...



... the rear holder has be cut into halfs! No other way to get it fixed!



But it's not a showstopper, I guess.



Zinc plated clipp



Inside viewing about the sidelamp connection





Gallery mount to the front





------ Follow up post added August 9th, 2014 01:47 PM ------

Have mercy to the following car, use mudflaps













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  #34  
Old August 9th, 2014, 03:56 PM
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Paintwork







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  #35  
Old August 9th, 2014, 04:08 PM
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Assembling









































------ Follow up post added August 9th, 2014 02:11 PM ------







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  #36  
Old August 9th, 2014, 04:18 PM
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First roll out

Well, the draought bar is very short!



















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  #37  
Old August 9th, 2014, 04:30 PM
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Heavy duty

















Feel free to ask about Sankeys.
I'm done.
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  #38  
Old August 10th, 2014, 11:28 AM
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Very nice. So are the chains to stop the mud flaps going forward into the wheel? And did you live with the short draw bar, or make it longer?
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  #39  
Old August 10th, 2014, 11:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
Very nice. So are the chains to stop the mud flaps going forward into the wheel? And did you live with the short draw bar, or make it longer?
Thanks Charles,

yes the chains stop the mud flaps swinging towards the tire.

I will make the draw bar longer. About 1 1/2 ft.

But this is a project for the future.
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  #40  
Old August 18th, 2014, 05:57 PM
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Forgot to mention ...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Arlo View Post
The original fasteners are mostly corroded. So I put them into a aluminum tub, glued by something the Lord of Darkness never have seen. It works! No corrosion at all.
Please have a look:






















After lathing the pots I drilled the remainig holes inside the lathe by using their own gearbox.
To match the diameter for the original fixings try 1 3/4".

13 1/2 revs are necessary at the gearbox for a full 360 turn on the lathe's spindle.

With this deviding item it's an easy job. And a driven tool too.

First hole:





to set the second hole, set the bolt on 1/2 of the disk and turn 4 1/2 turns.









Same precedure for the last one.



I use an old gearbox in an other tool to get the threads ready.





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