It's not the bad synchro, it's what it leads to ... - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old August 17th, 2011, 08:15 PM
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It's not the bad synchro, it's what it leads to ...

A few years ago I bought an 83 110 and imported it through Tacoma, WA. Up until the moment I saw my truck on the dock, I was not completely sure that I had not been scammed. My wife thought I was nuts, which is true. After a few issues were ironed out with customs and the shipper, I drove away in a new-to-me RHD 4BD1T powered LR 110. From the first rattle of the engine I knew I was seriously hooked. 300 miles and one mountain pass later I was home, having made 28mpg. The seller had disclosed a few issues, such as a slow 2nd gear synchro, rusty door bottoms etc, normal stuff for a 25 yr old LR. All in all it was in good shape for the $$ and age, or so I thought. I spent the next year driving it all over E. WA and N. ID. It never missed a beat, but the synchro was starting to become a bit worrisome, so I contact a few folks to get some advice about the LT95 and I eventually decided to keep my original transmission and send a core (thanks Pendy) to Rob D at SW Rovers in ABQ for a complete rebuild. At the same time I had a few bits sent from AUS to Rob to beef up the transfer case. In preparation for the transmission swap, I sourced new clutch bits and pulled the old transmission, which is when I realized that the black waxoyl chassis stuff is an effective tool to hide existing rust. It may be good at holding off rust in the first place, but it is also really good at obscuring the real condition of a chassis, which led to a more involved bit of work.
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  #2  
Old August 17th, 2011, 08:22 PM
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Rob's rebuild is awesome. I highly recommend his work. The main problem with the old chassis was a series of fist sized holes in the frame rails at/behind the chassis side mounts for the front suspension links, almost non-existent front horns and some usual rear cross member decay. Some shop in Portland thought it was worth salvaging, so they got one very rusty chassis for a song. Further inspection of the bulkhead and B pillars showed extensive tin worm infestation. New bits were sourced and eventually dipped along with lots of trim, brackets and door frames. While everything was apart, I decided to get rid of the existing brown and go with a period green.
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  #3  
Old August 17th, 2011, 10:38 PM
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William Skidmore
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Two words, shipfitters disease.
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  #4  
Old August 18th, 2011, 01:17 AM
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Looks great! I'd love to thave the time to do this to my 110, although my frame is still doing OK. Living in the Salt Belt, I appreciate all the galvanized bits. Nice choice with the color change. Trident green is one of my favorite LR colors. I don't know what they were thinking with that turd brown color....

Mike
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  #5  
Old August 18th, 2011, 05:15 PM
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Yes, classic shipfitters disease. I had originally thought about going with Keswick green per Jim C's recommendation, however, I switched to Trident green and I really like it fresh and the way it fades over a few decades.

So far, my rebuild is starting to resemble a globe-trotting Quasi Moto. Stephen had a stellar deal on new windscreens complete with glass and seal for less than new glass. The tag on the glass indicated that it was a NTO for an IDF up-armor contract. The TRB kit for the transfer case is AUS MOD spec. The 4BD1t is a medium duty truck engine built in Japan for the US market and then in 1989 exported to the UK and installed in what became my 110. When I imported the rig in 2008, the EPA conformity sticker on the engine made for clear sailing through customs, once the mud and gunk was steam cleaned off.

When I started to pull the old transmission out, I discovered that the joker who did the 4BD1T install in '89 had butchered the v8 bell housing to fit the flywheel housing and had left a tennis ball sized hole in the side of the bell housing to clear the nose of the starter. So I needed to find the 'proper' LR factory bell housing to fit the rebuilt transmission to the engine. One of the joys of living in a small town is the lack of traffic, but one downside is that the closets linex or rhino dealer is almost 2 hrs away.

For the past year and a half I have worked with three different Safety Devices retailers (both US and UK based) who all said that they could get RBL1837SSS. The "Sure, no prob, it'll be 4 weeks" spiel was starting to get old, until Justin at Lucky8 got it done. Ignore the goofy guy posing with the crate of SD bits.
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  #6  
Old August 18th, 2011, 05:46 PM
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I can definately see the need for the sunglasses in your garage!
Nice 88, is that yours?
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  #7  
Old August 18th, 2011, 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by kevkon View Post
Nice 88, is that yours?
Yep, need to sell it one of these days.
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  #8  
Old March 18th, 2012, 08:21 PM
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Holy cow Paul how did I miss this thread?!!! I have been waiting YEARS to see this, especially the 4BD1-T. Any updates? Good color choice.
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  #9  
Old March 18th, 2012, 09:02 PM
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Keeping the split middle doors?
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  #10  
Old March 18th, 2012, 09:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MUDSUX View Post
Holy cow Paul how did I miss this thread?!!! I have been waiting YEARS to see this, especially the 4BD1-T. Any updates? Good color choice.
I'll get an update in a few days. The 4BD1-T is fantastic, love it.

------ Follow up post added March 18th, 2012 08:30 PM ------


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Keeping the split middle doors?
Yeah, planning on keeping it mostly retro and the split doors are fun. I can't wrap my head around push button doors on a LR. Although at times I've thought about lift up handle roll up window doors front and back.
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  #11  
Old March 18th, 2012, 09:40 PM
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Great to see another galvy bulkhead fan.
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  #12  
Old March 18th, 2012, 10:36 PM
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Paul it seems great minds think alike. I didn't know you had that cage? Stephen is ordering one for me and should be here in April. The one he listed was already gone. I was too late. Would love to see the installation process. I can't find any info on the net. I am sure they are out there.

Did you buy a V8 chassis and redid the engine/tranny mount for the 4BD1-T? That is my future plan when the V8 blows.

------ Follow up post added March 18th, 2012 10:38 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by grnrvrs View Post
.....I can't wrap my head around push button doors on a LR.
I totally agree. And split doors are cool.
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  #13  
Old March 19th, 2012, 09:17 AM
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I agree, great thread. Be sure to take lots of pics of that Isuzu and how it is fitted in the engine compartment. Not too many of these stateside.
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  #14  
Old July 30th, 2012, 03:36 PM
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So I made a bit of progress of late. I got the engine mounts welded to the frame, clutch installed and the engine bolted the the LT95. Last night I installed the wings in preparation of the A hoop of the roll cage. Cutting the holes in the skins was a PITA.
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  #15  
Old July 30th, 2012, 03:40 PM
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I love the look of raw rover "chrome" especially with the colored vent covers!
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Old July 30th, 2012, 04:05 PM
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I have come to an important conclusion for anyone else anticipating a similar build. I love the SD 183 cage, Line-X in the rear tub, and LaSalle headliner and side trims; however, I hate installing the combination of the three.

SD 183 Cage:
There are no instructions with this cage, so it take a while to puzzle out where stuff goes. Fitting the D hoop was a major pain, because of the rear storage locker in the 83 tub. Most of the rest of it is straight forward, if time consuming by oneself. At one point my 7 yr old daughter gave me a hand and the interior cage seemed to install itself.

Line-X:
The extra thickness of Linex can futz with clearances. If it is reasonably thin, then it may not be an issues, however, mine is ~.25-.375" and caused a few tolerance issues. When I had mine sprayed I brought each piece to the shop and they were sprayed individually. If I were to do it again, I would do that again, but also limit the application to the wheel boxes and floor, not the tub sides with the barrel roll. See the second pic. I would have stopped at the joint between the outer skin and the wheel box top.

LaSalle:
Prior to putting the headliner in, I used some anti-vibrations mats on the roof followed by 1" of acoustic foam. The headliner appears to sit a bit lower than a stock headliner and it very rigid. Both characteristics that are fine, once everything it put together, however, they make the roll cage install more complicated. The side trims are nice. However, i think the 183 cage was designed to work without rear trim, as the gaps between the roll cage C & D hoops and the body are very tight (~.125").

Final observation for now: less is more and the less Line-X would have been more desirable form an installation perspective.

Does anyone know what the four tabs on the horizontal bar in the second pic are for? They have small studs on them and the bag of bolts had nuts, washers etc for them.
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  #17  
Old July 30th, 2012, 04:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
I love the look of raw rover "chrome" especially with the colored vent covers!
Thanks, I can't recall where I saw that first. I think Ike Goss had an Cummins powered 88 with a galvy bulkhead and colored vents covers. I'm hoping the galv will dull with a nice patina that will blend with the trident and limestone.
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  #18  
Old July 30th, 2012, 04:13 PM
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It will dull very nicely to a softer grey in a year or two.

------ Follow up post added July 30th, 2012 04:14 PM ------

Studs look like they are for jump seat mounts of some sorts.
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  #19  
Old July 30th, 2012, 04:20 PM
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Is that a camel cage? Does the front go through the roof top or sides?
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  #20  
Old July 30th, 2012, 04:22 PM
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Hey Paul,

My SD cage should be here this week. Thanks for the pics. Didn't yours come with the cross braces for the rear side?
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I am guessing the tabs are for the bench seatbelts?
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