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  #1  
Old August 30th, 2013, 10:30 PM
Carmel_CA_D90
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If you were in these shoes as a buyer or seller

Need to hear the experts opinion on this one!

Rover D90 posted for sale. Buyer knows nothing about D90s. Price agreed upon pending dealer inspection. Buyer has never seen D90 except for pics. Dealer inspection comes back with $8500 in repairs recommended.

From a buyers or sellers perspective what would be a fair way to complete the sale. IE with neither party feeling like they ripped off the other.

Please share if you have had similar experience.

Thank you.
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  #2  
Old August 30th, 2013, 10:37 PM
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I can find $8500 worth of repairs needed on a 2013 RR autobiography sat on LR Manhattans sales floor. I would try and negotiate what is needed to bring it to fair condition ... If you can't agree then as the seller I'd walk away ... You don't want to discount too deeply. As the buyer i chalk it up to learning something about these trucks.

And I'd only worry if I were the one feeling ripped off .... The person doing the ripping will feel like they got a great deal!
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  #3  
Old August 30th, 2013, 10:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leastonce View Post
I can find $8500 worth of repairs needed on a 2013 RR autobiography sat on LR Manhattans sales floor. I would try and negotiate what is needed to bring it to fair condition ... If you can't agree then as the seller I'd walk away ... You don't want to discount too deeply. As the buyer i chalk it up to learning something about these trucks.
Agreed. They all need work.
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Old August 30th, 2013, 10:43 PM
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All depends on the stated condition and the price range of the truck. I.E., who would pay a dealer $8500 of repairs on a $15,000 truck when it is probably $3000 worth of work (or $200 and a weekend of labor for many here)? If it is a mid $30s NAS that was sold as great condition with no mechanical issues, best to find a common ground if mechanical issues were found.
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  #5  
Old August 30th, 2013, 10:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leastonce View Post
I can find $8500 worth of repairs needed on a 2013 RR autobiography sat on LR Manhattans sales floor.
Two wheels with curb rash?
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  #6  
Old August 30th, 2013, 11:08 PM
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They all should probably have around $5k worth of work to bring them up to a standard if the PO has owned the truck for an extended period of time (and assuming the work hasn't all recently been completed). The buyer should also learn a thing or two about Defenders. If the truck requires $8,500 to RUN, then maybe there should be further negotiations needed. If the truck requires $8,500 in immediate rust repairs, then the buyer should probably just walk away.
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  #7  
Old August 30th, 2013, 11:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Jymmiejamz View Post
Two wheels with curb rash?
scrapping the orange fake tan off the leather where the bridge and tunnel crowd come to dream about being in the 1%.
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Soapy water / KY jelly, etc. is is basically a must. Yes, good idea to remove trim panels - only takes 5 more minutes to do so.
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  #8  
Old August 30th, 2013, 11:37 PM
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Bearing in mind many dealer inspections include the 'land rover tax' basically a surcharge to offset the fact they know F'all about the trucks ... will likely break more than they fix and think you are a member of the 1% so can afford to pay.

I would take $8500 of dealer fixes and think few mates with some beers and to duck tape will probably solve the issue.
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Soapy water / KY jelly, etc. is is basically a must. Yes, good idea to remove trim panels - only takes 5 more minutes to do so.
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  #9  
Old August 30th, 2013, 11:49 PM
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I had my LE inspected for a buyer at a LR shop. One of the things they included that needed to be done was an oil change...which I had done just a mile down the road before bringing it in for the 110pt inspection.
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  #10  
Old August 31st, 2013, 04:49 AM
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Why believe a stealer?
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A friend of mine runs a land rover / range rover specialty repair shop. Based on his experience, they are capable of stopping anywhere, anytime, at any cost.

I don't know about the brakes, only their unreliability.
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  #11  
Old August 31st, 2013, 07:49 AM
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My rule of thumb has always been that any Defender one purchases will require a minimum of $5K in work, no exceptions. Even a low mileage one. So, I expect that as a cost of ownership going in (i.e., Purchase price + $5K = Total Upfront Cost).

At $8,500 you're only slightly over that. Not too bad actually. My recommendation would be to negotiate around the $3,500 difference (i.e., $8,500 - $5,000 = $3,500).

Best of luck!
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  #12  
Old August 31st, 2013, 08:02 AM
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Post the list of items and prices and we'll first laugh and then point out were gouging is occurring.
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Soapy water / KY jelly, etc. is is basically a must. Yes, good idea to remove trim panels - only takes 5 more minutes to do so.
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  #13  
Old August 31st, 2013, 08:37 AM
bearskinrug
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The inspection was done on my truck, so I can speak to its reasonableness. I wont post the entire list hear since I didn't pay for the inspection and the OP is still considering the purchase of my rover. I would hope he would show me the same courtesy. What I will say is that just about every seal on every rover I've ever met "seeps" and to recommend replacement of each seems a little extreme. I'll also say that $4000.00 to address a left catalytic converter and rear exhaust rattle that my ears aren't good enough to detect seems exorbitant.
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  #14  
Old August 31st, 2013, 08:49 AM
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Keep in mind I have not seen the list or the truck in person:

New cats (at 154k if they did not rattle I would be shocked) dealer msrp for a y pipe is $4k, probably no need to replace them and outside of commiefornia carb, a new y pipe is $600
Rear main seal (its not, it just needs cross seals $20 in parts and an hour or two)
Head gaskets (including intake) most all seep a little
T case leak of some sorts
Maybe a swivel ball or two or pinion seal (clean breather it should be fine - 5min job)
Rotors below spec and needs new pads

The above gets you to $8500 at a dealer, BUT most every rover will have these type of issues.

The plus side is that since it is in NM, you have one of the best independent rover repair places out there. Rob Dassler of Southwest Rovers who can give an honest opinion and repair what is needed.

Based on the pics of the truck for sale, it looks like it is worth the asking price (no relation to seller at all). If it were me, I would get a second opinion from Rob at SW rovers, be happy I got a good deal at $26k (maybe the seller will give you a few dollars off as a curtosey but the price looked good to me) and pay Rob what he asked for what he considered necessary repairs.

I know I have my shit list of needed repairs on my D90. Some of those repairs went on that list in 2002 when I bought it the first time.

Old rovers are always broken, but rarely broken down.
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  #15  
Old August 31st, 2013, 09:00 AM
bearskinrug
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I took it to Rob when I bought it 3 years ago and he did my inspection then. He's a real professional and very trustworthy. I do the maintenance myself, including brakes and pads. I'd be surprised if, after three years and about 10k miles of my ownership, anyone could find $8500 of work it actually needed, but it is a rover after all. Cleaning out the breathers is a good idea....
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  #16  
Old August 31st, 2013, 09:03 AM
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Could you and the buyer agree on a second opinion?
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  #17  
Old August 31st, 2013, 09:10 AM
bearskinrug
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Originally Posted by 1of40 View Post
Could you and the buyer agree on a second opinion?
I think so. He's a totally reasonable, nice guy. But thats all assuming the list is worrisome for him. Maybe he'll roll with it as is. I guess if it's meant to be it's meant to be. It sure would make a nice truck to cruise around Carmel in. Perfect Cali truck....
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  #18  
Old August 31st, 2013, 10:42 AM
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Charles Galpin
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Just the cat can be replaced. I just did this on my truck for $70, although I did the work myself. Any exhaust shop could do it for a couple hundred bucks.
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  #19  
Old August 31st, 2013, 11:20 AM
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I would be interested if the truck is using synthetic oil/fluid/lube throughout.

If so, clean the breathers and poor in Rotella dino in the block, LR single shots in the swivels, and most any dino gear lube in the diffs and transfer. But stick to Redline MTF for the box (assuming a manual here). Remember we are dealing with early 60's technology here and probably 40's British machining (or worse). Opinions very, but I would stick with the dino fluids in the block and single shots for the swivels.

Drive around, warm everything up then spray the underside with Simple Green or similar, bristle brush where necessary, then hose off. There is a strong chance most of your leaks will now be seeps and seeps will now be sealed.

Then purchase a new exhaust and y-pipe for $1200. The fluids will be $100. Labor should not be much. A few hours at most.

Hopefully both parties can meet in the middle for the costs or the purchaser picking up the bigger share given the complete fluid change and new exhaust.
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  #20  
Old August 31st, 2013, 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
Just the cat can be replaced. I just did this on my truck for $70, although I did the work myself. Any exhaust shop could do it for a couple hundred bucks.
CARB issues in commiefornia.
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