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  #1  
Old November 18th, 2005, 04:20 PM
EndlessEarth4WD
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Grant Guilbeault
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I have a project in mind

I have a NAS D110 frame. It is in great condition. I also have a rusted out 6.5 liter Diesel Chevy truck with a great motor. Lastly I have some RRC axles I salvaged from a burnt Great Divide. I am thinking of taking the motor out of the truck and mounting it in the D110 frame. Then I would put a 4-speed manual behind it and mate it to a 205 (with 200 guts) that will allow me to run drive shafts to the offset axles. Obviously the axles will need more beefy shafts and lockers but the price is right since they are free.

Recently I have been thinking of doing the above and then putting an ex-MOD D110 soft top body onto it. I figured that it would be a pretty cool family trail truck with 36" tires, a surrey top, and a full internal cage.

So, a question for the D-90 source:

1. Any places in the US or in Canada (on the East Coast as I am in NH) selling parts where I might be able to source ex-MOD 110 body tub or complete truck with out motor that I can use for the project. I heard that Rovers Down South is a good source, but they are closed down since the Hurricane.

I had been originally thinking it would be cool to put a series body onto it, but then I figured a 110 body would be so much easier if I could find it. Anyone know how much work it take to fit a 109 body tub onto a 110 frame?

Thanks in advance.
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  #2  
Old November 18th, 2005, 08:04 PM
Monkeyboy

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Contact Pendy - Jim Pendleton. I think he may have some 110 bits around.

Try him on Pendy1@cox.net

KAA
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  #3  
Old November 18th, 2005, 08:53 PM
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Go to the junk yard and get something else for axles. You can get a d60 rear for 200. And maybe a d44 front for 400. With a 6.5L motor, 110 and 36's there is nothing that you can stick inside those rover housings that will stand up to even minor abuse. This way you can use another t-case as well. You will thank me later!
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  #4  
Old November 18th, 2005, 09:10 PM
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If you wanted to save the Chevy stuff you should just geta K5 or something. I dont see the reason too put that thing in a Defender. If you have a Defender there are a number of diesal options you could get into and keeep it rover. If you wanna hook up your diesal a K5 gov surplus with a deitorit rear and 4:56s is alotta bang for the buck. The 110 has alot more to offer in the long run and cash run. Whatever you end up with the rover option is the best if you keep it all correct. Rovers can sell themselve, lots of demand for the right one. SO read and think, burn one. If you find the right Defender you could come out on top in the bank and offroad.

Follow-up Post:

burn 2 if youd like
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  #5  
Old November 18th, 2005, 09:57 PM
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Landroverbest4x4xfar
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  #6  
Old November 18th, 2005, 10:48 PM
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Big Gord
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i have a 110 three door tub..........good shape......only hitch its in Langley BC Canada

$650.00 plus shipping

Gord
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  #7  
Old November 19th, 2005, 01:38 PM
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John Karlsson
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You might try Richard Moody at http://www.roverspecialvehicles.com/. He handles a lot of ex-MOD stuff.
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  #8  
Old November 19th, 2005, 02:20 PM
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Mike Hammond
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A good few years ago I dropped a 110 rear body onto a 109 stage 1 chassis, it bolted right on no trouble at all. The truck was a Sandringham 6 but that as they say is another story......
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  #9  
Old November 19th, 2005, 06:46 PM
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109 body bolts right onto a 110 frame. They are the same dimensions, unliek the 90 and 88 which are different.
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  #10  
Old November 20th, 2005, 04:09 PM
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Mike Hammond
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My point exactly. if it'll go one way then the reverse should be no problem either.
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  #11  
Old November 20th, 2005, 07:57 PM
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Christian Shea
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Get some Volvo C303 portal axles. 5" of lift without any aftermarket springs at all plus the ability to run 37-40" tires. And the coolness factor is very large.
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  #12  
Old November 21st, 2005, 10:46 AM
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Mike Hammond
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Very cool.
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  #13  
Old November 21st, 2005, 02:32 PM
EndlessEarth4WD
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Grant Guilbeault
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij
109 body bolts right onto a 110 frame. They are the same dimensions, unliek the 90 and 88 which are different.
That is good to know. I might go in that direction.
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  #14  
Old November 22nd, 2005, 12:34 PM
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Robert Ragland
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Is that 6.5 diesel the newer turbo model (The older diesel going back to the 70's was a 6.2, right)? If so, aren't you running about 400 lbs of torque at low rpm?

I would second the need for some stout axles, not ex RRC parts. Mix that power with heavy steel rims and large tires, I can just hear the shearing and snapping.
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  #15  
Old November 22nd, 2005, 01:15 PM
EndlessEarth4WD
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Grant Guilbeault
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ragland
Is that 6.5 diesel the newer turbo model (The older diesel going back to the 70's was a 6.2, right)? If so, aren't you running about 400 lbs of torque at low rpm?

I would second the need for some stout axles, not ex RRC parts. Mix that power with heavy steel rims and large tires, I can just hear the shearing and snapping.
The concensus is that the RRC axcles cannot be built stout enough. Too bad. But good to know up front.

I should probably not post any more about it here because it is becoming decidely less rover...but I am currently considering using a dually corporate 14 set up as a single in the rear and narrowing a D60 for the front. A local guy and I previously narrowed a D60 to 61" WMS-WMS. We could do the same for this project. I could do Rover 9"s but I want to keep it low budget out of principal.

In the meantime I have been sending a lot of e-mails out and I just found that Sky Top Rover has a number of 109 Ex-MOD trucks in stock for $2k each. That would be a pretty cool option for a body now that I know the 109 bolts to the 110 frame. Plus, I would be sitting with a frame, body, motor and a complete set of chevy and LR bolt on motor parts (steering boxes, etc...) for a total of $3,250 plus the fuel to take the hauler to PA from NH. I understand that it is fairly easy to swap the 109 to LHD with a few new parts.

I could use the RRC axles I have to make it a roller and then replace with whatever axles I decide upon later.

This site was very useful. http://www.aloharovers.com/howto/diesel
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  #16  
Old November 22nd, 2005, 05:02 PM
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Mike Hammond
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Keep posting, all roveresque builds are interesting
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  #17  
Old November 22nd, 2005, 07:14 PM
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Agreed! Keep posting, there are a few non roverish rovers on the forum! But that 14bolt will be a real pig, unless you shave it allot!

Follow-up Post:

Hey Check this site out, kinda the same with the 14 bolt and Dana 60

http://www.bigrover.com/bigrover/projects.htm

I met these guys at the last National Rally. It worked great when the Power steering was working.
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Old November 22nd, 2005, 07:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EndlessEarth4WD
The concensus is that the RRC axcles cannot be built stout enough. Too bad. But good to know up front.

I should probably not post any more about it here because it is becoming decidely less rover...but I am currently considering using a dually corporate 14 set up as a single in the rear and narrowing a D60 for the front. A local guy and I previously narrowed a D60 to 61" WMS-WMS. We could do the same for this project. I could do Rover 9"s but I want to keep it low budget out of principal.

In the meantime I have been sending a lot of e-mails out and I just found that Sky Top Rover has a number of 109 Ex-MOD trucks in stock for $2k each. That would be a pretty cool option for a body now that I know the 109 bolts to the 110 frame. Plus, I would be sitting with a frame, body, motor and a complete set of chevy and LR bolt on motor parts (steering boxes, etc...) for a total of $3,250 plus the fuel to take the hauler to PA from NH. I understand that it is fairly easy to swap the 109 to LHD with a few new parts.

I could use the RRC axles I have to make it a roller and then replace with whatever axles I decide upon later.

This site was very useful. http://www.aloharovers.com/howto/diesel


Now your talking! Please keep posting on this. We definently need more people to think outside the box on this! The 14 bolt is the best bang for the buck. 35 spline straight out of the junk yard. They are an anchor but can be shaved tight and with the 6.5, who cares? On the front 60, the bummer is your not going to find a Kingpin style anywhere for less than $1200. There just too valuable now. Plus, once you get them you have to pull it apart to get the 35 splines throughout. Plus, shortening a tube and full inners is a bitch. This can get expensive, and is why I recommended a 44. The good news is, a bone stock 60 can easily handle 40's, but not under a rig as heavy and powerful as yours. To do this right, your going to have more $$ in the axles than the entire truck. Just as God intended!
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  #19  
Old July 21st, 2008, 04:50 PM
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john
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij
109 body bolts right onto a 110 frame. They are the same dimensions, unliek the 90 and 88 which are different.
Does anybody know if the axles need to be moved in order to this? I read somewhere that the wheel wells on the 109 body dont line up with 110 frame. Is this accurate? I just started taking the body off my 109 to drop onto a 110 chassis and im trying to figure out what ive go myself into.
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  #20  
Old July 21st, 2008, 05:36 PM
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They line up fine. The biggest issue is that the wheel track is too wide with the coiler axles. You have to run narrow wheels and skinny tires to tuck inside the fenders.

http://www.eastcoastrover.com/Thompson109.html

I forget if the inch difference is in the front or the back, but when I mocked it up it looked fine.
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