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  #1  
Old July 4th, 2005, 12:32 AM
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Tony Fannin
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How's this for nasty?

Well, finally got around to doing the head gasket job on the 90. I'm hoping this fixes the overheating problem finally as it's a ginormous PITA.

The sludge inside my engine was/is amazing. Check out the pics. The cleanest spot in the whole thing was the rod nearest the coolant leak where it was steam cleaned. The inside was covered in a solid 1/4"+ layer of goo and in some places more than 1/2". The oil ports from the rockers down into the cam were all over half clogged. I've done engine breakdowns before but have never seen one that was this gunky. Looks like the P.O. decided to wait a little longer than normal between oil changes. Heck, it should run better, it'll be 10 pounds lighter once I'm done. The valves look good as does the cam and rockers. The pistons/cylinders show no sign of having gone over 120,000 miles other than some carbon buildup. After I'm done with this overhaul/cleaning she should be good until 250,000.
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  #2  
Old July 4th, 2005, 12:48 AM
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Bradlee Duncan
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Wow, that looks even worse than our disco did!

With ours I didn't have to do a head gasket too, I just cleaned it out really well with some MMO (Marvel Mystery Oil) and then when I got it all put back together I ran MMO through it a couple of times at 500 miles each and it purrs like a kitten now. No more probs and seems to have more power than it once did too. Good luck with yours, it'll be great to get that all done!

http://discoweb.org/forums/showthrea...ghlight=sludge
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  #3  
Old July 4th, 2005, 10:47 AM
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LOL WOW that is horribal! When I pulled the 2 I had appart the 3.9 was cleaner then the 4.0, btu the 3.9 had just had some water run through it with sand scrubbing particals
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  #4  
Old July 4th, 2005, 12:22 PM
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Wow.... that's pretty bad. Probably the result of the head gasket being bad and coking the oil.

I'm convinced that running an oil cooler without a thermostat also contributes to the sludging, since it keeps the oil colder for a longer time which can result in sludging.

-Hans
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  #5  
Old July 4th, 2005, 03:10 PM
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The most common cause of this, beyond neglected servicing is failure to service the PCV system.

Clean the flame trap and make sure the hoses are clear.

PS that CAM is shot.
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  #6  
Old July 4th, 2005, 04:11 PM
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Jack Walter
1966 109 SW Diesel
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Infrequent oil changes will lead to this - Rover engines require 3300 mile oil changes. I think the extra cooling effect of the aluminum block helps contribute to this sort of mess.

Also looks like a Quaker State engine - usually only Quaker State or Pennzoil will gunk up an engine that much - I run Casrol GTX 10W30 and never see this kind of build up. Valvoline works well too.

For the cleanest engine imaginable use Shell Rotella T - its an engine oil formulated for diesel use so it has a very high detergent level - works great in air cooled Porsches that can really put oil to hard use.
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  #7  
Old July 4th, 2005, 04:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JackW

For the cleanest engine imaginable use Shell Rotella T - its an engine oil formulated for diesel use so it has a very high detergent level - works great in air cooled Porsches that can really put oil to hard use.
I have wondered about using Shell Rotella. Is anybody else out there using it???
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  #8  
Old July 4th, 2005, 04:45 PM
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Chris Davis
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Ron is right, and now is definetly time to replace that cam and lifters while it is apart. Also, make certain to clean out all the oil pathways--last thing you need is to have a journal clogged by that gunk.
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  #9  
Old July 4th, 2005, 05:03 PM
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Robert Dassler
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I second the Rotella T. I use 15w40 Shell Rotella T in my Defender and at 165,000 miles, the engine looks very clean inside. You can buy it for about $7.00 a gallon. I can usually find it at NAPA or, if not, the truck stop. It meets API service standards of SJ and SL for gasoline engines and is the oil recommended in my 1994 D90 owners manual. I have been using it as long as I can remember.

I have come across a few engines sludged up as bad as the photos...my recommendation would be to strip it completely and have it hot tanked...that way you can be certain no stray chunks will work loose and plug the oil pickup or get into the relief valve.
Rob
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  #10  
Old July 4th, 2005, 07:13 PM
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The more I look at it.... the more I agree with Rob. An engine gunked up that bad is going to have other issues you may not be aware of yet. The cam and lifters are definitely shot, that much is obvious. My next concern is the condition of the oil system and also the main, rod and cam bearings.

If you can afford it both in time and money.... I'd pull the block, get it all hot tanked, and replace the rings and bearings. (and the timing chain at 120k). Flush out the oil cooler too. While the block is out, it would be a great time for a new clutch. Heck,If you can't afford that right now, you will definitely need to pull the oil pan and clean that out, as well as clean the rotating assembly as best you can.

-Hans
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My oil line fix

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  #11  
Old July 5th, 2005, 08:01 AM
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I'm using Rotella T 15W-40 in my Defender 90, the 109 station wagon and Porsche 356's - I usually find it at Wal-Mart or Sam's. I've run Castrol in the '91 Range Rover since I got it because Rotella wasn't as commonly available ten years ago. I first starting using Rotella back in the mid-70's - good stuff.
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  #12  
Old July 6th, 2005, 10:37 AM
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isnt rotella a syhthetic?
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  #13  
Old July 6th, 2005, 02:43 PM
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No - its Dino-oil based.
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  #14  
Old July 6th, 2005, 03:15 PM
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Scott
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Actually there is rotella and rotella synthetic. so it could be, it could be not.
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  #15  
Old July 15th, 2005, 09:33 PM
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Tony Fannin
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Got the freshly cleaned heads back yesterday. They look almost new now. It's amazing. Finishing cleaning things up today and tomorrow. I dropped the oilpan tonite and things actually weren't bad at all. I cleaned a bit of gunk out of the oil pick up but it wasn't restricted at all. Might have her back on the road by Monday. I plan on getting it together then running the engine for a few minutes then doing a quick oil change then running it for 500 miles with MMO and doing another. Then I should be good for a good long time.
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  #16  
Old July 16th, 2005, 01:19 PM
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Bradlee Duncan
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Man that looks great. It should be running like a new truck when you get it all put back together!! Good job!
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  #17  
Old July 17th, 2005, 01:26 AM
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Chris Davis
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Personally, I would replace the rockers while it is apart--they are inexpensive, even from a dealer. It will quiet things down a bit.
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  #18  
Old July 17th, 2005, 10:20 AM
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Tony Fannin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davis
Personally, I would replace the rockers while it is apart--they are inexpensive, even from a dealer. It will quiet things down a bit.
I'd love to but the budget is shot for the next month or two after some of them unplanned expenses. The rockers are also the easiest thing to get to and I'll do them in the near future. I just need to get her back on the road. I need a new fresh air intake hose from the aircleaner to the plenum. The old one was dryrotted. I figured it'd be $30-40 so I dropped by the dealer yesterday to grab one. They said it was $275. Guess what I didn't get. Look like it's ducttape or a trip to Lowes for a new hose.
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  #19  
Old July 19th, 2005, 01:01 AM
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I'd say just tape it up to seal it for now, keep an eye on E-bay and/or post up something in the parts wanted section.

$275 is a lot more than it's really worth for just a hose.

-Hans
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