How to repair a vintage Rover sign ? - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old February 17th, 2016, 09:08 AM
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How to repair a vintage Rover sign ?

My good friend Robert The Davis perceived that I have fewer projects in life than he does and knew I was looking for Rover automobilia for the shop.

He gave me this sign and said a little duct tape and ......

Looking for recommendations on a type of glue to use on the plastic. Want whatever I use to be translucent and non-yellowing as the nature of the repairs is that they will be visible when the light is on. The lense seems to to be abs or similar plastic and has become brittle with age and heat from the lamps.
I intend to go with led bulbs and get rid of the ballast and starters, so heat in the future will be greatly reduced.

Just want to make it a wall hanger that comes on when the lights are on.
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  #2  
Old February 17th, 2016, 09:15 AM
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Sorry Doug no glue recommend but that sign is very cool. Perhaps a call to a local sign shop would get you a good product recommend.

Been trying to find something like that for my garage just as garage art. A few years ago a cool LR sign was sold at Barret Jackson in Scottsdale and a '50's sign was on the block this year.
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Old February 17th, 2016, 09:20 AM
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meh....that there sign is for cars....


.
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  #4  
Old February 17th, 2016, 09:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nomar View Post
meh....that there sign is for cars....


.
Wouldn't expect someone from your side of the Blue Ridge to have any appreciation.... so next time you come over to play in the barn I won't turn it on.
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Old February 17th, 2016, 09:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Douglas View Post
Wouldn't expect someone from your side of the Blue Ridge to have any appreciation.... so next time you come over to play in the barn I won't turn it on.
LOl- depending what kind of plastic maybe regular old Testor's type model glue?


.
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Old February 17th, 2016, 09:38 AM
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Can you use white plastic weld epoxy or one of those burn guns that Buck / crown14 used on his RRC ABS plastic bits?
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Old February 17th, 2016, 10:15 AM
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Could you build a simple wooden frame around the other edge and just hide the cracked edges?
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Old February 17th, 2016, 10:24 AM
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I have the complete light, photo's were just of the lense. Want to fix the original and put it back into service.The breaks appear to be from rough handling and storage over the years. The smudges on the light are a greasy hand print ( Robert's?). There are a couple of holes about 3/8 that need filling. The testors glue would be a last resort. Looking for a more flexible/substantial adhesive. I have seen old testors type fixes and I think they leach some color where the glue melts the plastic.

Was considering this but hoping one of the forum here knew of a better suited product. The Plexus is cream colored so may work.

Plexus MA 310 High Strength Plastic Adhesive
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Old February 17th, 2016, 10:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rijosho View Post
Can you use white plastic weld epoxy or one of those burn guns that Buck / crown14 used on his RRC ABS plastic bits?
Thought of Joel's staple welder. Not sure on that, in looking @ the pictures he posted it looks like the
staples would show through the translucent plastic. Looking around on the web some recommend
a simple hot glue gun-apparently the glue sticks are 100% plastic and the color about the same.
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Old February 17th, 2016, 10:59 AM
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Doug:

Certainly not the intended application, but I've used the Loctite Vinyl & Plastic Flexible Adhesive with great results on other things:
Loctite Vinyl, Fabric & Plastic Flexible Adhesive from Loctite Adhesives

It definitely stays flexible, dries clear, and I'd think you could go heavy on the inside to create a good bond and probably be good to go. Just a thought.
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Old February 17th, 2016, 11:02 AM
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Not sure if this helps, but has anyone used the plastic glues that set with UV light?
Eric.
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Old February 17th, 2016, 11:10 AM
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I'd be worried about losing all that patina that only time and use have created. A simple clean and then some kind of light box with led strip bulbs.
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Old February 17th, 2016, 11:59 AM
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I you can figure out if it's plexi, lexan or acrylic..

Weld On Glue Plastic Adhesives, Weld On Glue, Plexiglass Glue for acrylic sheets. Acrylic glue & cement

I have used the Weld-on#4 before on acrylic. it's amazing stuff. Water thin, and it evaporates. you need to use the applicator to control how much you apply, (again, it's water thin) and evaporated really quick, so it's all about applying in the right spot.
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Old February 17th, 2016, 12:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by galen216 View Post
Could you build a simple wooden frame around the other edge and just hide the cracked edges?
I thought the same thing. Might be better to hang it from that anyway
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Old February 17th, 2016, 12:34 PM
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Guys,not going to change the fixture out for a wooden box. The fixture itself and its patina are also very cool and is designed to hang on the wall. Its all here, I have it disassembled to fix the lense, as I said, I just pictured the lense, not the whole light.
Point me in the right direction and I'll post up the repaired, assembled, outcome.
It would be criminal to ruin that by cutting it down instead of simply fixing the cracks/breaks.

My plan was to replace the existing 2 florescent bulbs with led ones https://www.1000bulbs.com/category/3...atible-2-foot/
so that I minimize how often this needs to be touched.

This thing has got to date from the 70's and its land rover cheap so guessing the plastic is pvc ?
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Old February 17th, 2016, 12:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nomar View Post
meh....that there sign is for cars....


.
You mean you don't drive one?

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Old February 17th, 2016, 01:11 PM
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Maybe before your time Jimmy, but Austin Rover Cars North America (Arcona) marketed the Rover 800 series as
the "Sterling" here in the US with a Honda V6 2.5 liter engine. The were only around from 87-91 or so and went under.
http://bringatrailer.com/2014/09/02/...rling-827-sli/y
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Old February 17th, 2016, 01:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jymmiejamz View Post
You mean you don't drive one?
dagone-- I'm glad you pulled that picture out; sure is a sexy car...


I also think the plastic welding would show through--- glue is the way.


.
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Old February 17th, 2016, 01:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Douglas View Post
Maybe before your time Jimmy, but Austin Rover Cars North America (Arcona) marketed the Rover 800 series as
the "Sterling" here in the US with a Honda V6 2.5 liter engine. The were only around from 87-91 or so and went under.
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Old February 17th, 2016, 02:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nomar View Post
meh....that there sign is for cars....


.
I trash picked that sign 43 years ago from the Land Rover dealership, Copeland Motors on Granby St. in Norfolk, VA where I worked as a mechanic during college summers.
Back in those days there were Rover dealerships only, not dealerships exclusively for Rover cars and dealerships exclusively for Land Rover.
One dealership for both.
As such I never saw a Land Rover vintage dealership sign because they may not have existed.
This held true until Land Rover pulled out of USA around the end of 1973.
Most dealerships were closed in a few years, but Copeland Motors stayed open for years afterwards.
They even bought inventory from other dealerships as they closed.
I remember they had new 1973 or perhaps even a few 1974 Series IIIs in their show room that had not sold yet in 1975.
They wouldn't lower the price, because that was all there were locally...
I am not aware of just a Land Rover Dealership or sign until Land Rover decided to come back to North America in the 1980s when they started selling the Range Rover in USA.
It was these second round dealerships that had Land Rover signs.

In summary UD has a sign from a Rover dealership that sold all Rover products.
Now some dealerships elected to focus on cars or Land Rovers, but you could order either from any dealership and they were all required to offer sales brochures covering both the cars and Land Rovers.
They all sold parts for both cars and Land Rovers until they pulled out of USA.
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