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  #1  
Old August 1st, 2017, 01:39 PM
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Help with installing vent flap seals on Defender

Just got some new vent flap seals (part number MUC4299) (the rubber type) and don't want to screw them up on install. I've not replaced these before and have read a few different approaches so I'm looking for best way to get the job done. A brief step by step would be helpful.

Thanks in advance!
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  #2  
Old August 1st, 2017, 01:56 PM
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They should be self adhesive. Just peel and stick.
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  #3  
Old August 1st, 2017, 01:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by US Defenders View Post
They should be self adhesive. Just peel and stick.
Nah, those are the foam seals. These are the rubber seals and have no adhesive.
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  #4  
Old August 1st, 2017, 02:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by US Defenders View Post
They should be self adhesive. Just peel and stick.
That is the newer style seal. The ones he is talking about is the original style that sticks to the vent itself. Same should be on that 86' 90 you just built.



It's pretty easy to do. I did it a couple months ago. Remove the vent covers completely, use THIS for adhesive, only touch the seal to body when it is ready to adhere, I found it easier to put the adhesive on the body then stick the seal to it, attempt to clean up any excess adhesive that squirts out, then reinstall the vent and close it tight and leave it closed for a few hours for everything to set.

The hardest part is removing the vent cover as it is a tight fit. Think I had to use a 8mm on a small ratchet and some locking needle nose pliers. I took my DS one off yesterday to fix an unrelated rattle.
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Old August 1st, 2017, 02:10 PM
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Ok so just to verify, adhesive on the bulkhead, then press seal on bulkhead, reattach flap to bulkhead, close vent, and let cure to hold seal. Correct?

Mainly I was curious if seal should be adhered to the flap or the bulkhead but it didn't seem to make sense to secure it to the flap so I needed to hear that from someone who has done it with success.

Does that 3M weatherstrip adhesive set up fast or is it somewhat easy to work with?


Quote:
Originally Posted by AdamSanta85 View Post
That is the newer style seal. The ones he is talking about is the original style that sticks to the vent itself. Same should be on that 86' 90 you just built.



It's pretty easy to do. I did it a couple months ago. Remove the vent covers completely, use THIS for adhesive, only touch the seal to body when it is ready to adhere, I found it easier to put the adhesive on the body then stick the seal to it, attempt to clean up any excess adhesive that squirts out, then reinstall the vent and close it tight and leave it closed for a few hours for everything to set.

The hardest part is removing the vent cover as it is a tight fit. Think I had to use a 8mm on a small ratchet and some locking needle nose pliers. I took my DS one off yesterday to fix an unrelated rattle.
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  #6  
Old August 1st, 2017, 02:15 PM
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I actually had the rubber seals and decided to put the foam ones on instead. I just couldn't get the vent flaps to shut far enough to look flat with the rubber ones in place. I use the 3M weatherstripping adhesive to install them, it has a good amount of working time so it's relatively easy to install.
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  #7  
Old August 1st, 2017, 02:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WBSurfer View Post
Ok so just to verify, adhesive on the bulkhead, then press seal on bulkhead, reattach flap to bulkhead, close vent, and let cure to hold seal. Correct?
Yes you got it

Quote:
Originally Posted by WBSurfer View Post
Does that 3M weatherstrip adhesive set up fast or is it somewhat easy to work with?
Eh pretty quick, but you have a bit of wiggle room.
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  #8  
Old August 1st, 2017, 02:23 PM
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Perfect! Thanks. Just what I needed to hear.

Cheers!
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  #9  
Old August 1st, 2017, 02:30 PM
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Those one's (MUC4299) which are WAY better than the peel and stick, do not have adhesive.

Two prevailing thoughts are to use either rubber cement or contact cement. Contact cement basically will never come off, so 10 years down the line, it will be a major PITA.

I did rubber cement. Didn't work for me--they peeled off. Then I did contact cement---and now, 15 years later, I am planning to remove them and expecting a major hassle...

So I am sure there is a third choice--and I too would love to hear it. I do know contact cement is fine but you have to get it right as it isn't too forgiving.

Next time I will use the 3M weatherstrip adhesive. Here is a full write up.
http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...tep-43884.html
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  #10  
Old August 1st, 2017, 06:00 PM
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Help with installing vent flap seals on Defender

When I installed the rubber series type vent seals on my 90, I used aquarium silicone and put it on the bulkhead then installed new seal and shut it as tight as I could. I then just wiped up the spillage and it worked perfectly. I also left them to cure for two days to be safe. I did use laquer thinner to clean the adhesive from the old POS foam seals . Going to have to do this on my 110 soon.


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  #11  
Old August 1st, 2017, 06:21 PM
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I did this to my truck and it was one of the best upgrades I've done. I live in FL and it rains half of the year.

The important thing is to take apart the entire apparatus. It's very easy, just takes time. Use liquid nails to stick it to the frame and strips of duct tape to hold it on there for the next few hours. After a few hours, put it all together and voila!

http://www.defendersource.com/mod/vent_seal/index.html
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  #12  
Old August 1st, 2017, 11:41 PM
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I did the foam installation last year. Where I hear the rubber is better, very difficult to install. The rubber goes on the body, the foam installation will go on the vent flap. If you go foam, make sure you remove ALL RESIDUE from the original installation. The foam seal from Rovers North is PLE365. This has an adhesive back, yet the first ones I installed the adhesive failed and delaminated from the foam. RN sent replacements. Remove the vents, clean thoroughly, install the foam seal in a cool place and put weight over the seals for a couple of days.
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  #13  
Old August 2nd, 2017, 06:41 AM
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10 year old contact cement will still come off with xylene. You need to be patient but it'll soften and you can use a plastic scraper to get the worst of it loose. I removed 50+ year old contact cement using this.
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  #14  
Old August 2nd, 2017, 11:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdamSanta85 View Post
That is the newer style seal. The ones he is talking about is the original style that sticks to the vent itself. Same should be on that 86' 90 you just built. It's pretty easy to do. I did it a couple months ago. Remove the vent covers completely, use THIS for adhesive, only touch the seal to body when it is ready to adhere, I found it easier to put the adhesive on the body then stick the seal to it, attempt to clean up any excess adhesive that squirts out, then reinstall the vent and close it tight and leave it closed for a few hours for everything to set. The hardest part is removing the vent cover as it is a tight fit. Think I had to use a 8mm on a small ratchet and some locking needle nose pliers. I took my DS one off yesterday to fix an unrelated rattle.
Yes, use the 3M adhesive. It works best. Make sure the vent is closed tightly and leave it be for a few hours.
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  #15  
Old August 9th, 2017, 09:25 AM
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Question - is the rubber seal from RN sold as a set or do I need to order 2?

SEAL DASH VENT-BULKHEAD RUBBER TYPE SERIES III & DEFENDER
MODEL #: PLB332
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