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  #21  
Old August 29th, 2008, 10:24 AM
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Don Bunnell
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Mike - you mentioned beach trucks from NJ being pretty bad - are you talking ones that are driven on the beach and/or just located near the ocean? I'm just a few miles from the shore but don't drive on the beach altough it is parked at the beach club at times. It's garaged every night. It's originally a NC rig and the underside is in good shape and I would like to keep it that way. Would keeping the truck clean and an application of Waxoil help? Or am I domed from the sea air?
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  #22  
Old August 29th, 2008, 11:28 AM
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Luis A. Costa
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Got to get that Waxoyl under there like there's no tommorow, only takes a saturday out your life.

ECR is rite on the money, I've seen so many rusty rovers here in jersey that I think I'll start Waxoyl-ing them as a side job on my driveway.

Hey Eric, its to bad you don't sell the stuff or I'd buy it from you.

I just did my wife's 93 LWB, it looks sweet - I love shooting the road spray off the frame, and watching the
water bead off - yes I'm freaky like that.
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  #23  
Old August 29th, 2008, 12:16 PM
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Don Bunnell
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grnthng





Got to get that Waxoyl under there like there's no tommorow, only takes a saturday out your life.

ECR is rite on the money, I've seen so many rusty rovers here in jersey that I think I'll start Waxoyl-ing them as a side job on my driveway.

Hey Eric, its to bad you don't sell the stuff or I'd buy it from you.

I just did my wife's 93 LWB, it looks sweet - I love shooting the road spray off the frame, and watching the
water bead off - yes I'm freaky like that.
If you realy do Waxoyl applications please let me know - I'd love to get it done on my truck.
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  #24  
Old August 29th, 2008, 12:20 PM
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evilfij
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The parts truck I bought from ECR was not this bad. Actually it was a lot better than I hoped as the four front doors had clearly been replaced at some point and showed no rust through. The bulkhead is crappy but repairable and the SW rear door is junk and the rear crossmember is gone, but it was a lot better than this.

A proper job on this one would replace everything metal but the cage which is what I assume it is getting.
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  #25  
Old August 29th, 2008, 12:33 PM
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Burke Bell
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Amazing what salt can do. My folks have an oceanfront condo with a parking lot behind the building. There is a Mercedes SLK parked there that I think someone leaves at their vacation home. Rust holes all the way through the fenders... Saddening
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  #26  
Old August 30th, 2008, 01:13 AM
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Mine was worst than this one. And it was a San Franciso resident all its life.
But just the bulkhead.
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  #27  
Old August 30th, 2008, 02:12 PM
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Luis A. Costa
'93 Range Rover County LWB
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Don,
I would not mind Waxoyling your D-90 as long as we take into a few considerations. Just so you know I am not a shop, so there would be a few things to think about.

Example; * how much oil and grease is in and around your eng. compartment - because of my driveway.
if it's alot I could use the wash bay down the road....
* then you should inspect the frame and undrcarriage for flaking paint and rust... using an old
screwdriver and just picking at anything loose you see.... I could do this if you don't want too.
* then basically it is just a matter of buying the degreaser ( I use a gal. of Super Clean,
it's a purple gal. and it just dissolves everything ) and getting wet and dirty.
it is easier to this with the wheels off, but not nessacary.
* all that's left is spraying the Waxoyl... there's 2 way's of doing this, with air pressure using
a concentrate or sraight out of an aerosol can... doing it the 2nd way is much less messy.
* finally we just need a dry over 60 deg. sat. or sun. even on mondays, because I work nights
mon. - fri.

I don't think anybody in the N.Jersey area is doing this, I surely don't want to step on anybody's toes. I'm not going to get greedy, because I have a lot of other things going on... house projects, raising kids.. well I got alot of house projects anyway.
I just hate seeing these vehicles rusting out when it's so preventable.
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  #28  
Old August 30th, 2008, 02:48 PM
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bart
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who is selling the waxoyl anymore?
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  #29  
Old August 30th, 2008, 04:27 PM
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Roversnorth sells it.
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  #30  
Old August 30th, 2008, 06:16 PM
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Matt J.
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Love Waxoyl... shame I wasted $150 worth of it on my truck.

Then again, I think mine might be better off than the ECR 110 Mike posted.
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  #31  
Old August 30th, 2008, 10:40 PM
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D Cantrell
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ECR
The worst Defenders we see, rust-wise, come from the upper mid-west. IL, IN, OH that area. Then beach trucks (MA and NJ), then upstate NY and VT trucks, then the rest of New England. I drive a D90 all winter and it looks nothing like this, it all depends on how you take care of it, but if you have a west coast truck and drive it in Maine in the winter you'll be crying this Spring for sure after you see what happens to it, especially if you drive on the interstates like 95 (they spread that liquid truck death stuff all winter).
If you want to keep a 110 from the west coast good in New England... buy a beater RR or Disco to drive from Dec. to April and park the 110, IMO.
True... Ive spent most this year restoring mine... Its staying parked on slushy days... Hopefully we get a little less rain this winter....
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  #32  
Old August 31st, 2008, 12:13 PM
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Luis A. Costa
'93 Range Rover County LWB
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Oh man!!! Am i seeing things, parked on slushy days....uuhh!!!


$150.00 worth sounds like about 9 cans, how many did you use on one application.

FYI, there are 2 different sprays, 1 is for the frame and susp. area....hard wax and its black. Keep in mind, for the guys that like the look of different colored susp. components etc. that these parts will all be covered with a black hardened waxy oily mixture.

I made the mistake of using the 2nd type which is the rust inhibitor on my frame's and susp's. This one does not cover or penitrate as well as the hardwax because it's clear and it is intended for painted surffices..... door jams foot and wheel well's, around engine comp's etc.

I am also thinking like a RR classic owner and not a D-90 owner, correct me if I am wrong.... are the underbodies of D-90's factory coated or are the bare painted surffices?

The cheapist way of keeping frame rust to a minimum is to buy yourself a case of WD-40 and before and after every winter season spray the Sh... out your frame and underbody.... don't forget shooting inside every hole in the frame, by the way you will want to this on your neigbors driveway?!#

I am originally from Portugal, and they have a very trick way of rust proofing. They do on a lift in a ceramic tile coated washbay and after they change your oil they mix your dirty oil with some fresh diesel,and with some psi they blast evrey crack and crevis...let drip and dry for half-hour while your sipping on two expresso's at the cafe next door - sorry I was getting carried away!
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  #33  
Old September 2nd, 2008, 08:05 AM
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Matt J.
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I think it's closer to $20/can. I've been through 5 or 6 of the Hardwax for the frame and anything else that was rusty that I could get to, and 2 of the other type to coat the inside of the frame, doors, and anything else i can't get to.

I tihnk Waxoyl is expensive, but far superior to a seasonal treatment with WD40 or anything else... those coatings will evaporate, sluff, or otherwise come off quickly.
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  #34  
Old September 2nd, 2008, 08:36 AM
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john
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[If you want to keep a 110 from the west coast good in New England... buy a beater RR or Disco to drive from Dec. to April and park the 110, IMO.[/QUOTE]
Thats great. I sold my wife on the 110 by saying it would be a good family truck for the winters in Maine!
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  #35  
Old September 2nd, 2008, 09:20 AM
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David Marchand
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phoenix37
Thats great. I sold my wife on the 110 by saying it would be a good family truck for the winters in Maine!
It will be a good truck in the garage. Seriously, find a disco and park that thing. Or have Matty show you some of the rusty bohemouths that come in his door!
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  #36  
Old September 2nd, 2008, 09:41 AM
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Ryan
1966 S2a 88" | 2006 LR3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grnthng
I don't think anybody in the N.Jersey area is doing this, I surely don't want to step on anybody's toes. I'm not going to get greedy, because I have a lot of other things going on... house projects, raising kids.. well I got alot of house projects anyway.
I just hate seeing these vehicles rusting out when it's so preventable.
I'm unaware of anyone doing this in the NJ area, especially not within the rover circle.

Hell, I may even be interested in having you help out on my two trucks... I know of at least 20+ rover owners in NJ as well...
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  #37  
Old September 2nd, 2008, 12:27 PM
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Really, fellas, Waxoyl application is pretty simple unless you want to go be AR about it... It's a rattle can; you climb under and around with a wire bristle brush scrubbing the rusty bits, and then applying Waxoyl. Treatment of the interior of the frame seems tedious, but it's as simple as using the flexible can hose and bending it around any frame drain holes you fine while spraying. It will visible begin to "fog" out of other frame holes, and I used that as an indication that it needed "just a little more" in the hole I was spraying into.

I am absolutely certain, without a doubt, that the professional kit - which you can buy - will do a more thorough application when used with a good air compressor and all the fancy jazz like real lifts... but how much better? And if you really want to be ridiculous, you get some of the POR15 metal ready and degreaser first, and correctly apply those ahead of time.

But Waxoyl is good, IMHO, because it's simple. it looks clean (like new) and protects well once it's on.

OH! And the smell! ALmost like new car engine smell when it's applied. It's great.

I have NO connection personal or professional with Waxoyl or any application company. I just agree with it's rationale and methodology for trucks like ours that have surface rust and need basic stabilization.

Order a few cans and have at it. If you want to pay me, I'll do it... but you'd be wasting your money.
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  #38  
Old September 3rd, 2008, 11:06 AM
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Luis A. Costa
'93 Range Rover County LWB
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I don't think the debate here is how much money your going spend.... which honestly its not alot for something your going to do once a year maybe two or whether your plugging the brand or not.

I think it's just like changing your motor oil, if you want it to last you know what you have to do!

Hey Ryan & friends, I will be in the OBX next week... but towards the end of sept. beginning of oct. or whatever before the cold. Let me know if you want to set something up.
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  #39  
Old September 3rd, 2008, 02:46 PM
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john
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmarchand
It will be a good truck in the garage. Seriously, find a disco and park that thing. Or have Matty show you some of the rusty bohemouths that come in his door!
Point taken. Looks like the 110 goes in the barn andt this is what ill be driving in December. Can I bring it to the winter rally?
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  #40  
Old September 4th, 2008, 07:57 AM
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ECR
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How is that going to get you through a Maine winter?
You must be one hearty soul (or freaking nutz).
I wouldn't drive that in the winter if you paid me. #1 its too cool to kill and #2 wait until an ice storm and see how fast you can clear the windscreen in that thing. Does it even have windscreen washers????
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