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  #21  
Old February 9th, 2014, 03:09 PM
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Russell
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grover View Post
The diffs do not hold much oil. It's best to change more frequently than 75k There is lots of talk about the diffs on other forums. Some say to change the fluid once a year. It's all easy to change but the trans. Save $$$ and change the fluids yourself. Welcome to the modern rover...lol
Provided the LR3 wants to play nice, knock on wood -- I'll be doing everything myself. Should be starting from a good platform -- only 38k miles, 100% factory serviced except for last oil change. Just gearing up to change the oil on day one (which will probably this Tuesday). I'll service the diffs later in the month. Thanks for the tips.
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  #22  
Old February 9th, 2014, 03:19 PM
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too bad these newer trucks dont leak as bad as the old ones, my transfer case changes its own oil.
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  #23  
Old February 9th, 2014, 03:39 PM
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Jimmy
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Originally Posted by down_shift View Post
Jimmy, using Ray's link to the factory LR3 maintenance checklist, the schedule to renew the engine oil/filter is every 7.5k or 6 months, slushbox oil/filter every 150k or 10 yrs, transfer box every 75k, f/r diffs every 10 yrs (every 75k for the r locker). Do you see any reason to accelerate this schedule in one area or another? Else, I'll just follow this and save the $$.
I didn't look at the link, but those are the factory recommendations. I will say this about them, they recommend changing the coolant every ten years, and Dexcool is supposed to be changed every 5 years, so I don't pay much attention to the factory recommendations. They make these schedules to lower the cost of maintenance for Consumer Reports and such from what I understand.

The transmission will leak fluid from the connector sleeve before 150k, so you can plan on changing the fluid when you fix that leak. It should start leaking before 100k.

Your coolant bleeder hose that connects to the thermostat will burst at some point, so plan on changing the coolant then. Your thermostat will almost definitely fail at some point, and possibly more than once, so the coolant will get changed then. It wouldn't be a bad idea to change the whole housing, because it will probably leak at some point.

I wouldn't worry about the brake fluid, newer Land Rovers rarely ever have hydraulic problems in my experience. If I had one, I would probably replace the fluid in the reservoir every few years, I wouldn't bother bleeding the system. Maybe do a gravity bleed every 6 years or so, but again, probably not needed.

The diffs should be changed every 30k miles in my opinion. They can get noisy, and keeping fresh fluid in them would probably help combat this. I would definitely cut the valve off the end of your front diff breather which comes up next to the radiator on the driver's side. Land Rover makes a new style valve to go on the top, but I would just cut the end off. If you don't do this, the front axle seals and the pinion seal will leak. If yours are leaking, I can tell you how to do them, and there is a very good trick for the front pinion seal.

7,500 miles for the oil is probably fine, my mom changes hers every 5k.

I wouldn't touch the power steering fluid unless it is making a squeaking noise with you turn the steering wheel at parking lot speeds. If this happens you need to flush the fluid with LR2 (not LR3) steering fluid and add a Land Rover PAS fluid additive to the system.
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  #24  
Old February 17th, 2014, 04:22 AM
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I run Royal Purple Max Gear oil in both diffs, and Royal Purple Synchromax in the transfer case. Also Royal Purple power steering fluid. All is well.

Anyone run BG synthetic ATF in their transmission? Was thinking of getting the BG complete fluid exchange done.
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  #25  
Old February 17th, 2014, 08:15 AM
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Jason Lavender
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Originally Posted by no-pistons View Post
Anyone run BG synthetic ATF in their transmission? Was thinking of getting the BG complete fluid exchange done.
I'm running BG Synchro Shift II in my trans only, so far so good and performs exactly as it did with the Redline MTL in it (which was what was in there prior).

I switched because after my clutch job (and when I cleared my breathers) with my high rpms at highway speed (4.7 gearing) I was pushing MTL back out the trans breather in the engine compartment. The working theory was that my breather was clogged prior and after clearing with no restriction it was trying to seek it's own level and in theory maybe filled was a little too "full". To rule out any fluid issues, I switched to the Synchro Shift II and all was well after that.
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  #26  
Old February 17th, 2014, 09:18 AM
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AB has a cool Maintenance Service Schedules sheet with the kits they have for each interval.

I got mine for the DII

http://www.roverparts.com/maintenance/

I sent you the one for the D3.
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  #27  
Old February 17th, 2014, 04:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanwind View Post
I'm running BG Synchro Shift II in my trans only, so far so good and performs exactly as it did with the Redline MTL in it (which was what was in there prior).

I switched because after my clutch job (and when I cleared my breathers) with my high rpms at highway speed (4.7 gearing) I was pushing MTL back out the trans breather in the engine compartment. The working theory was that my breather was clogged prior and after clearing with no restriction it was trying to seek it's own level and in theory maybe filled was a little too "full". To rule out any fluid issues, I switched to the Synchro Shift II and all was well after that.

I assume that is in your Defender and not LR3... I would stick with the correct ZF fluid. ZF automatics rarely fail, no reason to put the incorrect fluid in them.
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  #28  
Old February 17th, 2014, 05:04 PM
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Jason Lavender
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Originally Posted by Jymmiejamz View Post
I assume that is in your Defender and not LR3... I would stick with the correct ZF fluid. ZF automatics rarely fail, no reason to put the incorrect fluid in them.
Crikey my bad...yes that's for the D, not the LR3 - my bad.
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  #29  
Old February 18th, 2014, 08:40 AM
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Originally Posted by The Dro View Post
AB has a cool Maintenance Service Schedules sheet with the kits they have for each interval.

I got mine for the DII

http://www.roverparts.com/maintenance/

I sent you the one for the D3.
Good info. I just printed them out for the D1 and RRS.

And for what it is worth, I used Amsoil Severe Gear 75W-90 in the front and rear diffs on the wife's RRS. I plan on doing both around 50k every time. Thankfully hers was made after the coating change, so the diffs should last a while longer than the early ones.
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