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  #21  
Old February 11th, 2016, 12:52 PM
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corrosion x goes on like wd 40 or similar. No appreciable build up. Why you would ever want to get it off I don't know but yes, pressure washing and reapplication would be fine.
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  #22  
Old February 11th, 2016, 12:55 PM
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I'm with Clay and the use of WD40. It's cheap, readily available, and pretty much does the same thing.
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  #23  
Old February 11th, 2016, 12:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RBBailey View Post
How about this -- how about using one of these products on the inside of a stripped bulkhead?

I'm painting mine, not galvanizing it. The only 'issue' I might have with this is the interior spots. So trying to figure how I might deal with it.
I am not sure how CorrosionX bonds to paint. FF is like melted wax so you probably dont want that on the interior of the bulkhead.

Have you looked into ChassisSaver paint on the Bulkhead? I used it on my frame with good results.
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  #24  
Old February 11th, 2016, 01:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
I'm with Clay and the use of WD40. It's cheap, readily available, and pretty much does the same thing.
Yes, but as in my case, WD40 comes off in a few days. I've been driving my Series daily for 5 weeks now, and I've had to apply it twice to keep my springs from sounding like a cheap Vegas hotel bed on a Friday night. I am looking for something that will protect, but also, hopefully keep it quiet.

------ Follow up post added February 11th, 2016 10:03 AM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by mmgcny View Post
I am not sure how CorrosionX bonds to paint. FF is like melted wax so you probably dont want that on the interior of the bulkhead.

Have you looked into ChassisSaver paint on the Bulkhead? I used it on my frame with good results.
Well, it is bare metal, completely stripped of paint. I was going to make my own nozzle to get my spray gun into the interior of the bulkhead, and coat the interior with an epoxy primer, followed by some kind of paint. But was looking into the sheep grease stuff as an option for spraying under the Series, and thought maybe it might be good for inside the bulkhead as well. Probably after the paint.
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  #25  
Old February 11th, 2016, 01:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RBBailey View Post
Yes, but as in my case, WD40 comes off in a few days. I've been driving my Series daily for 5 weeks now, and I've had to apply it twice to keep my springs from sounding like a cheap Vegas hotel bed on a Friday night. I am looking for something that will protect, but also, hopefully keep it quiet.
Hahah!

I think fixing the squeaky springs will require something more than a spray-on lubricant!
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  #26  
Old February 11th, 2016, 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
Hahah!

I think fixing the squeaky springs will require something more than a spray-on lubricant!
You might be right, but it probably wouldn't be a bad thing in any case. I may have to contact Rocky Mountain to see about the squeaks.
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  #27  
Old February 11th, 2016, 01:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Douglas View Post
corrosion x goes on like wd 40 or similar. No appreciable build up. Why you would ever want to get it off I don't know but yes, pressure washing and reapplication would be fine.
It's not so much getting the coating off, but pretty much anything that is sitting on top of it. So as long as it is as thin as it says it will be ok, I will have to pick up a can.

------ Follow up post added February 11th, 2016 01:17 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by RBBailey View Post

Well, it is bare metal, completely stripped of paint. I was going to make my own nozzle to get my spray gun into the interior of the bulkhead, and coat the interior with an epoxy primer, followed by some kind of paint. But was looking into the sheep grease stuff as an option for spraying under the Series, and thought maybe it might be good for inside the bulkhead as well. Probably after the paint.
Why aren't you dipping the bulkhead? Is it in place already?
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  #28  
Old February 11th, 2016, 05:01 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnsD90 View Post
Why aren't you dipping the bulkhead? Is it in place already?
For one, I've been told by two places here that they won't do structural parts of a vehicle due to litigation concerns with possible warping.

Second, is because galvanizing is a bit of overkill for living in a place where we don't have salt on our roads. I'd never argue that you should not galvanize, but I feel that if I can get it sealed and painted better than factory new, I'm probably good to go.
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  #29  
Old February 11th, 2016, 05:20 PM
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If you are just wanting to squirt something out of a can, ACF50 is the best route to go.

http://learchem.com/products/acf-50.html
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  #30  
Old February 13th, 2016, 05:42 PM
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  #31  
Old February 13th, 2016, 05:50 PM
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I use it on my land cruiser and my brand new Tacoma

I really like it. I apply twice a year. Spring and fall. Applies super easy. Doesn't harm anything if you overspray. Creeps well so if you miss a small spot it will still get covered

I actually like the smell, but goes away in a few days regardless. No harm if it gets on exhaust. Just smokes off on the first drive

I got a 5 gallon bucket and in 2.5yrs I'm maybe halfway through.

The taco is rust free despite 2 winters of salt (although it's only 2 yrs old)

The land cruiser looks the same as when I bought it from Colorado (pretty much rust free) but I also try to keep it off the road when it's salty.

Can't beat the price that's for sure!
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  #32  
Old February 13th, 2016, 06:06 PM
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The best is krown:

www.krown.com

They sell it by the pail, spray can, etc. Not sure if you americanos can get it. But then again you don't know what rust is
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  #33  
Old February 13th, 2016, 08:02 PM
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I like this stuff

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Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
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