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Old January 9th, 2015, 12:53 PM
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Farewell EAS (LR3)

Well, at 142k miles- my EAS compressor is in it's last days; not too shabby considering the workload it's been subjected to over the past 10 years. It would've lasted even longer had it not been working overtime to mask a front valve leak (and small leaks from both front air springs). All together- I've been very pleased with my trouble free EAS, which has left me with a difficult decision on my hands now that I'm faced with an $1,800 repair bill, and an uncertain future for the rest of the EAS components. These days, I'm stacking ~30k miles per year on the truck, so reliability is critical. Although a new compressor, a front valve, and two front air struts would get me back in the game- it's unclear how long the rest will hold out.


I plan on driving this truck into the ground (and potentially wheeling it thereafter), and as much as I like the access height for parking garages, and the off-road mode for clearance, neither I use often enough to justify keeping the EAS.


That said- I've made the decision to mitigate the risk altogether, and invest instead in AB's air to coil conversion kit w/OME springs. The kit is said to provide 2" of lift over the "normal" height- putting it somewhere between normal and offroad settings (always thought the stock setting was about an inch lower than what it should have been). According to a few posts on EP, ride quality is said to be "as good if not better", which is good enough for me.


Hope to have them installed by Friday of next week. Leaving all of the EAS componentry in place just in case. Has anyone else made the conversion?
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  #2  
Old January 9th, 2015, 12:57 PM
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Havent done the swap, but consider it everytime I think my EAS is going out. Already replaced with 1 new hitachi 3 years ago. Although the AMK upgrade is supposed to be a permanent solution, it doesn't guarantee air bags or valve blocks. Im @ 151k currently and can hear it struggling. I am going to be rebuilding the drier assembly next weekend with a new kit we are selling to see if it improves the performance. The D3 is my DD as I do 80 miles per day and I use it on occasion to tow whichever Rover is going off-road so I like the idea of maintaining the system.


I would be very curious for some before and after photos of how the truck sits and a report on its ride after conversion.
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Old January 9th, 2015, 01:04 PM
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Nathan who used to be in SCLR had an early 05 LR3 with coils. He would struggle over stuff the guys with the air sprung LR3's would walk over due to not having the added articulation from the air suspension. The guy is a pretty good driver, so struggling was not due to lack of skill..

If you're not wheeling it on difficult trails and its spending most of its time as a mall crawler then coils should be fine.
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  #4  
Old January 9th, 2015, 01:05 PM
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I'll update the thread with a full report w/pics. Curious about the ride height as well- several have said that AB's basic kit (AB branded coils & shocks) sits about 1" lower than the normal setting, which is why I opted for the OME springs.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Erik@Lucky8 View Post
Havent done the swap, but consider it everytime I think my EAS is going out. Already replaced with 1 new hitachi 3 years ago. Although the AMK upgrade is supposed to be a permanent solution, it doesn't guarantee air bags or valve blocks. Im @ 151k currently and can hear it struggling. I am going to be rebuilding the drier assembly next weekend with a new kit we are selling to see if it improves the performance. The D3 is my DD as I do 80 miles per day and I use it on occasion to tow whichever Rover is going off-road so I like the idea of maintaining the system.


I would be very curious for some before and after photos of how the truck sits and a report on its ride after conversion.
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  #5  
Old January 9th, 2015, 01:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psykokid View Post
Nathan who used to be in SCLR had an early 05 LR3 with coils. He would struggle over stuff the guys with the air sprung LR3's would walk over due to not having the added articulation from the air suspension. The guy is a pretty good driver, so struggling was not due to lack of skill..

If you're not wheeling it on difficult trails and its spending most of its time as a mall crawler then coils should be fine.


Interesting- I've read this more than once, but recall someone measuring the before and after and finding that the articulation numbers are closer than expected (but favoring the EAS, of course).
One thing is for sure- it's a trade-off, just like most modifications. In this case, I'm hoping to trade a little offroad articulation, onroad convenience (access-height) and leveling ability (towing), for significantly lower operating costs and most importantly- long term reliability.
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Old January 9th, 2015, 05:46 PM
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I had a independent shop replace my compressor with factory part for 800 including labor when mine failed at 60k. That was a few years ago in Charlotte, NC. 1,800 for just the compressor and labor?
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  #7  
Old January 9th, 2015, 05:56 PM
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I'm with Matt. Price shouldn't be more than 1k tops. I had mine done at a dealer at that price a couple of years ago with the new Hitachi. Best part of those trucks is the EAS coupled with the traction control.
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Old January 10th, 2015, 12:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WeBeCinYa View Post
I had a independent shop replace my compressor with factory part for 800 including labor when mine failed at 60k. That was a few years ago in Charlotte, NC. 1,800 for just the compressor and labor?




Nah, I'd meant $1800 for compressor ($500), two front air springs ($700), and front valve block ($150), and labor.
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Old January 10th, 2015, 01:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Holiday View Post
Nah, I'd meant $1800 for compressor ($500), two front air springs ($700), and front valve block ($150), and labor.
That really isn't that bad. Seems like they always wanted more to do a RR. I remember hearing quotes of up to 4 and 5k from some. Maybe it was the stealer ship.

I would keep the EAS.
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Old January 10th, 2015, 02:05 PM
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You are making a big mistake. It is going to ride like shit if it is anything like a full size Range Rover with coil springs. I highly doubt you need front air springs. You can rebuild your compressor for under $200. A front valve block is easy to replace on the ground and only requires a 12mm wrench for the three air lines and a screwdriver for the fender liner.
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  #11  
Old January 10th, 2015, 04:31 PM
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Local indy shop labor- can't imagine what dealer prices would look like. It's not the $1800, but the path I'm on once I spend it. Height sensors, valve blocks, rear springs, EAS control unit, etc.


Quote:
Originally Posted by LuisC View Post
That really isn't that bad. Seems like they always wanted more to do a RR. I remember hearing quotes of up to 4 and 5k from some. Maybe it was the stealer ship.

I would keep the EAS.
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  #12  
Old January 10th, 2015, 04:37 PM
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  #13  
Old January 10th, 2015, 05:02 PM
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Strong words that I'm not taking lightly, Jimmy.


Threads like this one are convincing that at least Atlantic British's coil-over kit is comfortable:
http://www.expeditionportal.com/foru...one-year-later


But this is all qualitative perspective- not hard facts.

Disco3.uk has even more threads that suggest the coils are very livable, with accounts from both LR original coil users (A lot more Disco-III's originally equipped with coils), and air to coil converts.


That said, with as much seat time as I'm logging- very concerned about the ride quality piece.


The air springs ARE leaking in front (soap/water test) from very small cracks, and while I suppose this could be repaired (as appears to be the case with most of the EAS), are the air spring internals not wearable? There's a lot of talk online about the rubber expanding, and wearing out over time (the latter part I can attest to), but what about the internal components?


Didn't know that the Hitachi could be rebuilt, but I'd probably just sell it and upgrade to the enclosed AMK/LR part. It's said to be quieter and more efficient (faster to fill).

If I were to decide to bench the AB kit:


1. Would you recommend replacing/rebuilding the rear valve block while I'm at it (front would be replaced)?
2. Any preference between the LR/AMK compressor (cased), and the aftermarket AMK?
3. How often and generally at what point do the rear air springs fail?


Thanks...!!


Quote:
Originally Posted by Jymmiejamz View Post
You are making a big mistake. It is going to ride like shit if it is anything like a full size Range Rover with coil springs. I highly doubt you need front air springs. You can rebuild your compressor for under $200. A front valve block is easy to replace on the ground and only requires a 12mm wrench for the three air lines and a screwdriver for the fender liner.
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Old January 10th, 2015, 05:02 PM
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Those air compressors are full of sensors talking to computers now. There are aftermarket compressors out there.
Worth checking with Justin to see if he can get them.
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Old January 10th, 2015, 05:08 PM
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This is a good thread...

http://www.expeditionportal.com/foru...ar-later/page4

You can always go back to EAS, just leave the pump in its place and plug the airlines.

Go for it!
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Old January 10th, 2015, 07:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jymmiejamz View Post
You are making a big mistake. It is going to ride like shit if it is anything like a full size Range Rover with coil springs. I highly doubt you need front air springs. You can rebuild your compressor for under $200. A front valve block is easy to replace on the ground and only requires a 12mm wrench for the three air lines and a screwdriver for the fender liner.
^this.

Ross, what makes you think your compressor is shot? Even if it is, the job to swap in a new compressor is simple. But I - like Jimmy - put in a new rebuild kit in my compressor on the '06 along with a new drier kit for total <$200 and my air suspension has been good to go since (115k on the clock).

Also did the same exact job on my friends '08. I told him which parts to buy, bring some beer, and we did it in my driveway one evening. Dealer had quoted him $1800 to replace everything as well.

Mainly what happens is the drier units have the silica gel deteriorate into white powder, which blocks air flow through the drier - throwing the amber "suspension" dash error. So at start up compressor runs for 30 seconds or so, then once it realizes there is poor air flow through the drier it stops and throws the error. You could *probably* even just replace the interior silica pellets instead of the entire drier...but it was only like $120 or so for the entire drier so I just went that route to replace the entire drier.
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Old January 10th, 2015, 08:15 PM
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Thumbs up

Last year I had problems with my EAS. It would drop to the bump stops every night.
I removed the front valve block, cleaned all the o-rings and re-assembled. There was lots of with residue in the block. I also replaced the drier and rebuilt the compressor.

The compressor only runs for about 30-40 seconds in the morning and I have no drop.
I believe the drier desiccant breaks down over time and pollutes the system.

Cheers...
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Old January 10th, 2015, 09:07 PM
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The set of arnot air springs and a new compressor makes the cool conversion not much less money. Plus the arnot springs have a lifetime warranty so minimal additional cost to keep forever. I am on the fence with my jag but I think I will keep air when they go. Mainly because getting to the computer to disconnect with a power rear seat is very hard.

------ Follow up post added January 10th, 2015 09:07 PM ------

There is also a rebuild for the compressor. It is a new ring and sold by an Audi guy.
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  #19  
Old January 10th, 2015, 09:41 PM
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Hey. Not shot- on the way out. Extremely slow to inflate springs, lower frequency compressor noise, and strong electrical burning smell. Interestingly- no caution lights yet.
Haven't removed the compressor to inspect it (no garage w/100yr old house). It's the original Hitachi, but the previous owner had a new drier kit installed at 82k miles (~60k miles ago). If it turns out that I can rebuild the motor, and have it last even remotely close to what the first one did- that changes quite a bit. But, I think what you're referring to is a seal repair kit, yes?


The air springs would need to be replaced regardless, and Arnott seems to be the best deal going based on their warranty alone.


Did the circuit breaker test late last week and left the truck for 72-hrs. Started at offroad height and by the end of the second day- all 4 corners were on their bump stops. Any idea which failed component(s) could have caused this? Front AND rear valve blocks?




QUOTE=nathanwind;597651]^this.

Ross, what makes you think your compressor is shot? Even if it is, the job to swap in a new compressor is simple. But I - like Jimmy - put in a new rebuild kit in my compressor on the '06 along with a new drier kit for total <$200 and my air suspension has been good to go since (115k on the clock).

Also did the same exact job on my friends '08. I told him which parts to buy, bring some beer, and we did it in my driveway one evening. Dealer had quoted him $1800 to replace everything as well.

Mainly what happens is the drier units have the silica gel deteriorate into white powder, which blocks air flow through the drier - throwing the amber "suspension" dash error. So at start up compressor runs for 30 seconds or so, then once it realizes there is poor air flow through the drier it stops and throws the error. You could *probably* even just replace the interior silica pellets instead of the entire drier...but it was only like $120 or so for the entire drier so I just went that route to replace the entire drier.[/QUOTE]
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  #20  
Old January 10th, 2015, 09:45 PM
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Replace airbags. They are all that actually leak IME. Compressor failures are caused by overwork from leaking bags.
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