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  #21  
Old January 10th, 2015, 09:49 PM
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Ross Simpson
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grover View Post
Last year I had problems with my EAS. It would drop to the bump stops every night.
I removed the front valve block, cleaned all the o-rings and re-assembled. There was lots of with residue in the block. I also replaced the drier and rebuilt the compressor.

The compressor only runs for about 30-40 seconds in the morning and I have no drop.
I believe the drier desiccant breaks down over time and pollutes the system.

Cheers...


Mark- all 4 bump stops? Also, did your compressor sound anything like the one I described when it died?
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  #22  
Old January 10th, 2015, 10:12 PM
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Ross,

I hope you are not planing to ever tow with the 3 on coils, if you do, man, you are in for a surprise, but I will help you :-)

IT SUCKS
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  #23  
Old January 10th, 2015, 11:01 PM
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Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by Holiday View Post
Mark- all 4 bump stops? Also, did your compressor sound anything like the one I described when it died?
Yes, all 4 bump stops. The 3 constantly self levels. To diagnose, I pulled the EAS fuse so it will not self level, I discovered the front was dropping, not the rear. I sprayed all the front airlines with soapy water, no bubbles. The olds of both front air bags having leaks are slim. Thats when I dug into the front air block. The block was causing the drop.
The air comp sounded as if it was struggling. It would run 1 -1.5 min every morning. Since the rebuild, it sounds much better.
I fixed my EAS for about $100 in just a couple of hours.

What makes you think both air springs are bad?
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  #24  
Old January 11th, 2015, 06:17 AM
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Jason Bullis
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I have recently replaced my compressor with the Arnott. After 2 weeks didn't like the way it mounted with Tactical Rover sliders, way too loud. I bought a AMK from Justin and I love the way it works. Very happy....
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  #25  
Old January 11th, 2015, 11:14 AM
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Ross Simpson
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rugbier View Post
Ross,

I hope you are not planing to ever tow with the 3 on coils, if you do, man, you are in for a surprise, but I will help you :-)

IT SUCKS



I hear ya, Goose. I wouldn't doubt that towing on coils would make for a much different experience. As you know, towed the 90 behind my LR3 all the way from Arlington, and with no brake controller (surge brakes only)- it did an excellent job keeping things under control. At speed, the ride leveling almost made you forget you had anything behind you. Do you have coilers on your LR3?
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  #26  
Old January 11th, 2015, 11:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jbullis View Post
I have recently replaced my compressor with the Arnott. After 2 weeks didn't like the way it mounted with Tactical Rover sliders, way too loud. I bought a AMK from Justin and I love the way it works. Very happy....


Jason- thanks; sent you a PM.
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  #27  
Old January 11th, 2015, 11:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grover View Post
Yes, all 4 bump stops. The 3 constantly self levels. To diagnose, I pulled the EAS fuse so it will not self level, I discovered the front was dropping, not the rear. I sprayed all the front airlines with soapy water, no bubbles. The olds of both front air bags having leaks are slim. Thats when I dug into the front air block. The block was causing the drop.
The air comp sounded as if it was struggling. It would run 1 -1.5 min every morning. Since the rebuild, it sounds much better.
I fixed my EAS for about $100 in just a couple of hours.

What makes you think both air springs are bad?


I see. Did the same test I mentioned in a few posts above, and all 4 were on their bump stops (self-leveling deactivated). Curious if by either cleaning or replacing the front and rear air blocks- the leaking would at least be contained. Decent video on the issue starting at minute 6:20 http://youtu.be/o55KBzsxSBA


My Hitachi compressor did the same leading up to the condition it's in now- ran for about 1.5-2 min each morning, self-leveled at stop lights and prolonged periods of stopped or slow-speeds. And in general- ran fairly often.


Soap and water test showed one small area on the inside of either front spring that bubbled. The original owner was in San Francisco and used the access height option often (daily) to fit into parking garages. Wondering if the access height causes increased stress in the rubber if it sits for ~8+hrs/day.
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  #28  
Old January 11th, 2015, 12:28 PM
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Did you pull the EAS fuse? Are you seeing bubbles on the air bags or on the air connections?
Chances are there many things causing the problems. The blocks could be fouled with the desiccant causing the air to flow back through the system.
Cleaning the blocks cost nothing, only time. When doing so, have the vehicle completely supported. The truck will fall to the bump stops if you don't. I believe the vid you mentioned gives details on bleeding the system for block removal.
Sorry, has you air comp completely stopped running?
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  #29  
Old January 11th, 2015, 12:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grover View Post
Did you pull the EAS fuse? Are you seeing bubbles on the air bags or on the air connections?
Chances are there many things causing the problems. The blocks could be fouled with the desiccant causing the air to flow back through the system.
Cleaning the blocks cost nothing, only time. When doing so, have the vehicle completely supported. The truck will fall to the bump stops if you don't. I believe the vid you mentioned gives details on bleeding the system for block removal.
Sorry, has you air comp completely stopped running?


Pulled the EAS fuse (F3). That's what I'm thinking on the blocks. The rear springs do not appear to be leaking, so if after performing the F3 fuse test, and all 4 sides are on their bump stops- it would make sense to me that the rear valve block is stuck open (failed).

The compressor still runs- technically. But. as mentioned- if fills very, very slowly, making struggling noises, and most disturbingly- gives off an electrical burning smell (like pending pump failure).

Fortunately, I'm friendly with a shop that is 100yrds away and works on Mercedes and LR EAS systems regularly. I'll be limping the truck down the street to them tomorrow. I've got to get this sorted ASAP, and they've got the lift, tools, etc.


Appreciate everyone's input- decided today to wave-off on the coil conversion for now, and first see if I can get my EAS system back to good health again. Will follow-up on the thread to help anyone else that goes through this in the future.
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  #30  
Old January 11th, 2015, 02:12 PM
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I've never seen an LR3 air spring leak externally like you are describing. I'm not saying it doesn't happen, it just seems unlikely. I've also never seen an LR3 leak down on all four corners. It would have to have multiple leaks to do that, assuming the air suspension is disabled. I always just disconnect the battery when testing for leaks.
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  #31  
Old January 11th, 2015, 02:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jymmiejamz View Post
I've never seen an LR3 air spring leak externally like you are describing. I'm not saying it doesn't happen, it just seems unlikely. I've also never seen an LR3 leak down on all four corners. It would have to have multiple leaks to do that, assuming the air suspension is disabled. I always just disconnect the battery when testing for leaks.


Yepp- multiple leaks. Any ideas on what could cause the back two to leak? Springs are fine. Rear valve block?
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  #32  
Old January 11th, 2015, 03:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Holiday View Post
Yepp- multiple leaks. Any ideas on what could cause the back two to leak? Springs are fine. Rear valve block?
Definitely rear valve block if both rear springs are leaking down with the battery disconnected.
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  #33  
Old January 11th, 2015, 03:07 PM
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Pull fuse #26 to deactivate the EAS. Otherwise it will still self level making it difficult to pin point.
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  #34  
Old January 11th, 2015, 04:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grover View Post
Pull fuse #26 to deactivate the EAS. Otherwise it will still self level making it difficult to pin point.


Hmmm... I've read elsewhere that fuse F3 is the one to pull, but you're right- this link suggests F26:
http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/disp...bum=3778&pos=3
With F26 online, and F3 disconnected- maybe self leveling still takes place.


Unsurprisingly, Jimmy's way seems to be the sure shot approach- just disconnect the battery.

I'm going to replace the F3 fuse, start the truck, re-fill the springs (as long as my compressor is still alive), and re-test with battery disconnected. Hoping for a different outcome in the rear. More to follow...
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  #35  
Old January 11th, 2015, 05:43 PM
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Yes, disconnecting the battery will do the same.
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  #36  
Old January 11th, 2015, 07:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Holiday View Post
I hear ya, Goose. I wouldn't doubt that towing on coils would make for a much different experience. As you know, towed the 90 behind my LR3 all the way from Arlington, and with no brake controller (surge brakes only)- it did an excellent job keeping things under control. At speed, the ride leveling almost made you forget you had anything behind you. Do you have coilers on your LR3?

No coilers on mine

A friend was facing your dilemma, wanted to save few bennies, so towed his 4000 lbs boat and thought it was the end

So we swap rigs, and indeed a POS

NOW HE IS SAVING TO GO BSCK TO BAGS, or buy another 3
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