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  #1  
Old May 24th, 2016, 01:56 PM
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Electrical connections

In the past, I've always soldered connections. Then a little heatshrink to keep it there.
Now, I'm considering using crimp connectors as more people say they are less likely to fail.

I'm looking for weatherproof style connectors---who has some favorite brands and why?


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  #2  
Old May 24th, 2016, 02:09 PM
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What's your end goal? Are you just looking for a way to seal your connections, or are you looking for something that can be disconnected and reconnected with ease? Most IP rated connectors have a lifespan, anywhere from 25 into the thousands, of times that that can be used before they lose their water resistance. Typically the higher that number, the more expensive the connector and tooling will be.

Weatherpack is a solid choice that doesn't cost a fortune and has pretty cheap tooling. I'm personally fond of the Deutsch DT and DTP lines but they can run upwards of $12 per connection. If you just want to seal a simple male/female spade connection that won't see a lot of action, I'd suggest something simple like a sleeve of 1/4 or 3/16 glue lined shrink tube over the plugs.

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Old May 24th, 2016, 02:14 PM
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I'm basically looking for good sealed connections; not disconnects.

Thanks for that info!


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  #4  
Old May 24th, 2016, 02:21 PM
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For some in North America weatherpak is probably the best choice as they are common and easy to source parts.
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Old May 24th, 2016, 05:03 PM
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Jeff, I have been told not to solder in a vehicle since the vibration will eventually break the joint. Some of the Land Rover ground connections are just crimped with a goo put over them.
I have purchased several crimp heat shrink connectors on Ebay with good results, 3M brand, 100 3M Heat Shrink Butt Connectors Marine Electrical Wiring Waterproof 22 10 AWG | eBay
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Old May 24th, 2016, 05:27 PM
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I use delphi metripack 280 connectors. they are cheap and seal well, when properly assembled.

i crimp and solder. i have never heard of anyone just soldering without crimping. that makes no sense to me.

properly soldered connections breaking due to vibration is highly unlikely.
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Old May 24th, 2016, 05:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post

i crimp and solder. i have never heard of anyone just soldering without crimping. that makes no sense to me.
That is what I used to do...crimp and solder.
But I've since heard that the failure can occur at the solder joint.

No car comes from the factory with soldered connections---is that from an engineering perspective or an accounting perspective? LOL


Thanks for all the suggestions guys.



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  #8  
Old May 24th, 2016, 06:01 PM
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I just got a pack of these from Wurth, and they are awesome. Assuming these are the same ones, they are filled with some kind of goop that comes out when you heat the tubing. I'll get the part number tomorrow, but they look just like these.
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Old May 24th, 2016, 06:33 PM
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Yeah, those are just a crimp barrel with glue lined shrink tube over them. Fastenal carries the PowerPhase line which is similar, and is usually about $1 a connection. Fastenal isn't exactly known for their low prices, so maybe shop around if you need to buy a lot.

-Ash
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  #10  
Old May 24th, 2016, 07:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nomar View Post
No car comes from the factory with soldered connections---is that from an engineering perspective or an accounting perspective? LOL
Yeah, definitely not an indictment against crimp-only. Heck, Defenders came stock from the factory with friction fit bullets!

I'm just overkill. But I do want to challenge the notion that crimping and soldering is worse than just crimping.
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  #11  
Old May 24th, 2016, 07:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
But I do want to challenge the notion that crimping and soldering is worse than just crimping.
Solder becomes brittle, a crimp doesn't. I can't speak for all manufacturers, but Land Rover does not want technicians soldering anything under any circumstance. Its one of the first things they teach you in Basic Electrical.
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  #12  
Old May 24th, 2016, 07:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nomar View Post
No car comes from the factory with soldered connections---is that from an engineering perspective or an accounting perspective? LOL
That's from a manufacturing / speed perspective as 90% of mass produced looms will be auto stripped & crimped, then you'll have pull off tests done on a schedule to check the quality of the crimped joint. I know, I used to work in that industry.

Now, take any top motorsport harness manufacturer and you'll find a mix of crimped & soldered joints & connectors, same for aerospace and mil.

The most important part is making sure the rigid portion of the joint is protected from vibration, that's what kills a soldered joint. Hot melt heat shrink is your friend and I normally take it at least 1/2" past each side of the joint for maximum support & sealing.

All our heavy equipment & snow plows at work have soldered / heat shrinked joints and they take one hell of abuse on the highway over the years.

Just my 2c
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Old May 24th, 2016, 08:05 PM
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However, if the solder wicks past the connector pin and into part of the wire that would otherwise flex, you've now introduced rigidity where you don't want it and effectively turned your stranded core wire into solid core wire which has no place in a car. Sure, solid core wire bends but it has far less fatigue life than stranded core wire.
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Old May 24th, 2016, 08:08 PM
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Jeff, I use these same ones. They work fantastic, when you heat them they seal the crimp. I researched what they were using on boats in sea water.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Capt Milks View Post
Jeff, I have been told not to solder in a vehicle since the vibration will eventually break the joint. Some of the Land Rover ground connections are just crimped with a goo put over them.
I have purchased several crimp heat shrink connectors on Ebay with good results, 3M brand, 100 3M Heat Shrink Butt Connectors Marine Electrical Wiring Waterproof 22 10 AWG | eBay
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  #15  
Old May 24th, 2016, 08:21 PM
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This: http://www.genuinedealz.com/marine-e...ire-connectors Same quality at Ancor at 1/3 the cost:http://www.ancorproducts.com/en/prod...rs/heat-shrink
But don't scrimp on the crimper, go with Ancor here. Thank Bill and his great wiring thread.
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Old May 24th, 2016, 11:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jymmiejamz View Post
Solder becomes brittle, a crimp doesn't. I can't speak for all manufacturers, but Land Rover does not want technicians soldering anything under any circumstance. Its one of the first things they teach you in Basic Electrical.
I was taught electronics in a different school.

So there are these things called PCBs...SMT...discrete components...but hey, Land Rover is known for their awesome electrics right?
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Old May 25th, 2016, 01:16 AM
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Want to know who is obsessed with crimping? Boat owners. Holy shit, they are way too into it. But I learned a lot. Correct, soldering isn't the best-- brittle is the key to why. It seems there are two main schools of thought -- those that do filled shrink crimps, and those that do double crimps.. Both take a special but different crimp tool (FYI). The double crimp, which I now do, crimps the connector onto bare wire and crimps a flared portion of the barrel onto the jacket forming a strain relief. I then heat shrink over this. I used to crimp and solder-- until i learned there is a better way. I've only had o e failure-- it was a wire that gets moved a fair amount going to my coil. It was soldered and broke right at the end where the solder ended... Now I double crimp..., mainly cause I have the tool. Nothing wrong with adhesive filled crimps either...just more expensive and a different tool
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Old May 25th, 2016, 06:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davis View Post
It seems there are two main schools of thought -- those that do filled shrink crimps, and those that do double crimps.. Both take a special but different crimp tool (FYI). The double crimp, which I now do, crimps the connector onto bare wire and crimps a flared portion of the barrel onto the jacket forming a strain relief. I then heat shrink over this. I used to crimp and solder-- until i learned there is a better way. I've only had o e failure-- it was a wire that gets moved a fair amount going to my coil. It was soldered and broke right at the end where the solder ended... Now I double crimp..., mainly cause I have the tool. Nothing wrong with adhesive filled crimps either...just more expensive and a different tool
The Ancor and equivalent marine grade heat shrink connectors with adhesive are double crimp. Remember to keep a micro butane torch in your kit.
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Old May 25th, 2016, 12:27 PM
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Old May 25th, 2016, 01:51 PM
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I crimp everything using new connector contacts and I use heat shrink ring terminals so I don't need to put solder on the end to protect the exposed wire. I only solder if I'm sticking two wires together (like when re-using an NLA connector) or if the connector contact is a little small for the wire size and the crimp doesn't look like it's going to hold very well.

I really like the crimpers made by Engineer in Japan. So far this one is my favorite for open-barrel contacts and it costs less than $400.

http://www.engineer.jp/en/products/pad11_13e.html
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