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  #21  
Old April 13th, 2005, 03:09 AM
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Unhappy

Maybe you're just going tp have to replace the clutch plates, release bearing and fork. If it's not the hydraulic part of the system them you've got to have a look inside and it's not really worth going the that much trouble - dropping gearbox etc. without replacing the clutch itself and the associated components.
I've got to bite the bullet myself as the clutch that was slipping way back at the start of the thread is still in there and lets go under moderate acceleration, burns off the contaminants grips again if I ease off the power and then repeats the whole episode again on the next hill/ junction
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  #22  
Old May 12th, 2005, 02:04 AM
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Mike Hammond
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Finally bit the bullet.
Stripped the truck down this week. New clutch, release bearing & fork.
There was a slight leak from the crank oil seal so I replaced that too. Pics to follow
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  #23  
Old May 12th, 2005, 07:16 AM
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SO did you drop the tranns or pull the engine? And pics are good
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  #24  
Old May 12th, 2005, 03:57 PM
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Mike Hammond
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Dropped the transmission, took the opportunity to swap the 1.44 transfer box for a 1.22 box out of a Discovery 1, not quite the straight swap I thought it would be
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  #25  
Old May 12th, 2005, 05:34 PM
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Why not? When I went from 1.2 to 1.4 it was. Were the output housings the same, what about the input shaft? I hear that some of them have different spline lenghts on the R380s and the autos?
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  #26  
Old May 13th, 2005, 06:04 PM
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Both the transfer boxes were set up for cable and rod hand brakes but the brackets were different, no big deal just drilling and tapping some M8 threads in the correct places. spent a while pondering whether to swap the rear output housings which would have given me holes in the right places, did some initial stripping down and found some differences between the transfer boxs, not surprising - one (1.444:1) was an early 230 R box and the other was a 230 T box with the added bonus of a cross drilled input gear , so I ended up drilling and tapping some holes in the right places.

The 'new' 1.222:1 box must have leaked at some point from the PTO cover and a previous owner decided the best way to "fix" this was empty a tube of silicone sealant into the box. I kid you not Took a while to clean the mess up.
The two counter sunk M8s that hold the rear input gear bearing in were rounded out good and proper too, managed to get them with an easy out.

All this conspired to make the job a little less than straight foward.

Now after a brief road test the exhaust is hammering like crazy on the chassis so I'm not quite done yet.

The clutch is working fine though.
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  #27  
Old July 2nd, 2005, 06:26 PM
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Up date... the clutch is slipping again, seems that it's the gearbox that is pumping oil onto the clutch
The !.222:1 transfer box isn't so good either, I think it needs some new bearings, It makes a hell of a row as the speed increases. Suppose I'll have to strip the lot down again
Here's some pics of the first time round

Follow-up Post:

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  #28  
Old July 2nd, 2005, 06:53 PM
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Man Mike! Do our Rovers think alike? Mine just threw a fit and is now demanding a new T-case. Turns out one of the bearings on the intermidiate shaft sefl destructed and the raceway wore into the side of the main case. Bummer on the leaky tranns, my R380 is the only thing that has lasted. Oh and my case was roaring at very low speed, or I should say as soon as I put it in gear.

Good luck!
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  #29  
Old July 3rd, 2005, 01:42 PM
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Snap,
took the bottom cover off the transfer box this morning... intermediate shaft bearings are shot but the don't seem to have eaten the case like yours have.
Won't be using it for a while.
Add a transfer box rebuild to the list of things to do before the 31 July when I'm entered for the Southern Safari Winch Challenge
On the + side I have secured all loose equipment in the truck so that part of the regs for the event is covered
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  #30  
Old July 6th, 2005, 05:33 PM
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On the plus side things are coming apart easier this time round - clean, no rust and all the fasteners were waxoyled when I put them together a couple of months ago.
I ordered a transfer box rebuild kit. that should be with me by the end of the week and the week end is penciled in for the great transmission rebuild that's if imminent child arrival doesn't throw a spanner in the works

Follow-up Post:

What to do about the new clutch that's started slipping though? try and clean the friction plate or bite the bullet and buy another new one bearing in mind that the clutch was changed 2 months ago??? ???
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  #31  
Old July 7th, 2005, 08:40 AM
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Owww thats a tuff one, how worn is the friction plate? If it doesn't look too worn I would just keep it, but if it's 1/2 worn or more you may want to replace it unless you really like pulling that tranmission out. With luck the kiddo will stay on hold and you can get your 90 fixed first.
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  #32  
Old July 7th, 2005, 10:28 AM
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If you got oil on it, I would toss it.
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  #33  
Old July 7th, 2005, 10:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davis
If you got oil on it, I would toss it.
it's that bad? I don't know about the clutch but the break pads on the T-case drum break seem to be OK after I wipe the oil off of them. Then again when oil leaked on the rear disc it ate through the pads real fast.
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  #34  
Old July 8th, 2005, 01:24 PM
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I was thinking about using brake cleaner or maybe soaking the friction plate in white spirit. The thing is practically new, less than 1000 miles on it
If I'd done the job properly to start with I wouldn't be in this mess now
It's just that I wasn't 100% sure where the oil that ruined the first friction plate had come from.
I changed the crank oil seal and hoped that would fix it, it hasn't so it must be the gearbox. There's no way oil from the engine can get to the friction plate if the drain plug is out.
I've one busy week end ahead of me.
Assuming no baby arrival
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  #35  
Old July 9th, 2005, 06:26 PM
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Dropped the gear & transfer boxes today. found gearbox oil on the fly wheel, changed the oil seal on the input shaft to the gear box, no big deal.
Top tip - to get the gearbox & transfer box out withiut removing the seat box take the Hi/low & diff lock lever off of the gearbox, that gives just enough room to rotate & slide the transmission out
Wish I'd worked that oun out first time round
On to the transfer box rebuild tomorrow.
I binned the friction plate, it was FUBARed with oil
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  #36  
Old July 25th, 2005, 11:37 AM
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All back together again, new friction plate, rebuilt transfer box and replaced oilseal on the front of the gearbox. Fingers crossed 'cause it's the winch challenge this comming weekend
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  #37  
Old July 25th, 2005, 11:39 AM
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OK all this talk about the winch challenge you better take allot of pics! Oh and GOOD LUCK!
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  #38  
Old July 25th, 2005, 12:03 PM
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I'll be far far to busy to take pics....maybe. The driver on the other truck in the team isn't renouned for fast movement, and the only winch we're alowed is on his truck and its a MILE MARKER, slow but it won't overheat.
You see the rules stipulate 2 vehicles, 1 winch and about 40 punches to collect during the day, both vehicles have to get the punch for the score to count and needless to say the punches are a tad inaccessable.
Yer I'll get pics.
Probably start a new thread....Putting my truck back together after the winch challenge!
I've bought some extreemly agressive tyres, hopefully half shaft failure won't be a feature of the day!
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  #39  
Old July 26th, 2005, 04:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Hippert
OK all this talk about the winch challenge you better take allot of pics! Oh and GOOD LUCK!
We'll be pleased if we beat another team.
Managed it last year and wedidn't have a winch atall that time round
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  #40  
Old July 26th, 2005, 04:22 PM
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Mike,

Is there a URL to the Winch Challenge site? I'd like to see how the competition works, etc. Not enough events like this is the (Western) United States.

Doug W.
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