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  #1  
Old July 28th, 2014, 01:29 PM
Roverlab
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Trevor Griffiths
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desiccant

Anybody have any ideas what the desiccant in land Rover air suspension shouldn't look like?
I have 2 LR3's with different ride level faults, and in the process of diagnosing one, I have the RLC compressor out and am dismantling it's related components to determine what failed.
Occurred to me I don't know what 'good' desiccant should look like.
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  #2  
Old July 28th, 2014, 01:55 PM
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I've never had mine apart. But if I'm not mistaken, it should look like small mothball pellets.
Have you checked out the Range Rover website and forum?
www.rangerovers.net
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Old July 28th, 2014, 02:13 PM
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Trevor Griffiths
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I have a lot of pellets and some are clumped together, but there is also a powder like talc. I tried to blow compressed air through the filters from the ends of the housing and nothing moves.
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  #4  
Old July 28th, 2014, 02:23 PM
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Trevor, I've been down this road with my LR3 as well as a friends' LR3...if it's clumped & powdery, then it's shot. It should be the intact round "pellets" (just like if you open any desiccant packet that comes with electronic components when shipped/etc). For $120-130 you can pick up just a new Air Drier #VUB504700 and slap it in. It does require taking out the compressor to bolt in the new Air Drier, but it's really not that bad of a job at all.

Other possibility is a bad compressor valve, but you can get those by purchasing a Compressor rebuild kit #JPO500010.

If the compressor is on/running, but you're getting a ride height error message you certainly *could* have a leak at one of the corners. However, in my experience in several situations with LR3s it's always been just the drier. R&R and you should be good to go.

Of course - the dealers always want to replace the entire "compressor" for $1K+...as they tried with my friends' LR3. I told him to bring the beers, the LR3, and a couple hours of time and we'd bang it out.
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  #5  
Old July 28th, 2014, 02:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanwind View Post

Of course - the dealers always want to replace the entire "compressor" for $1K+...as they tried with my friends' LR3. I told him to bring the beers, the LR3, and a couple hours of time and we'd bang it out.
I prefer replacing the compressor because the AMK is a better compressor IMO. It is much quieter than the Hitachi and I don't think I've seen one fail yet. The rebuild is a much cheaper option. Also, sometimes when you disassemble the part of the compressor with the spring, the threads come out of the compressor.
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  #6  
Old July 28th, 2014, 02:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jymmiejamz View Post
I prefer replacing the compressor because the AMK is a better compressor IMO. It is much quieter than the Hitachi and I don't think I've seen one fail yet. The rebuild is a much cheaper option. Also, sometimes when you disassemble the part of the compressor with the spring, the threads come out of the compressor.
Most of us prefer saving $900-1100 . I'll take a little "noise"...and keep the G in my pocket.
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  #7  
Old July 28th, 2014, 09:48 PM
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Full rebuild kits:

http://x8r.co.uk
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Old July 29th, 2014, 10:39 AM
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Also, I just read a post about the Hitachi compressors vs the AMK compressors. It turns out, according to the post, that Land Rover switched from one to the other not because of the obvious reliability issues, but because the Hitachi factory in Japan that made them washed away after the tsunami.

It appears that they might be back up and running now, and you can get the original compressor, via Britpart, for quite a bit less than the AMK. It's still pretty pricey though, so I'd probably just upgrade and go with the newer AMK.
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