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  #1  
Old April 18th, 2006, 04:36 PM
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Peter Sherman
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D90 rebuild

Well I am rebuilding my cousins d90 [frame up]. Its pretty beat! Rear tub is shot, rear x mem shot,engine.................
Any tips or cautionary notes would be great!!!
I know drop the wrench & step away from the tool box!
It should be fun but its gonna fight me! I don't yet have a budgit [yet].
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  #2  
Old April 18th, 2006, 08:07 PM
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The worst part is taking it apart and dealing with all the rusty shit. I like rebuilding stuff and bolting on new cleaned up stuff.. lol..
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  #3  
Old April 18th, 2006, 08:37 PM
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Jim Cheney
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Oh yeah, assembly is great...

For disassembly: air tools.
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  #4  
Old April 18th, 2006, 09:34 PM
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Peter Sherman
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It is nice assemble new OR at least clean shit.
I gots the heat wrench as well!!
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  #5  
Old April 18th, 2006, 10:52 PM
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Chris Davis
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Any part that you want to toss the nut side, break the bolt by overtightening it instead of trying to remove it. After welding up all the new cross memebers and such on the chassis, have it galvanized. Take a close look at the wiring harness and make your own (still run it through the frame) or at least make a new harness to the rear. When installing all the new lights, use LED's. Run extra power cables that you may or may not use to various thought out places. When the chassis is bare, weld on all the appropriate skid plates to protect the chassis between trailing arms and radius arms and make ramps for the rear trailing arms to skid over. Think about cage attachment points and weld those onto the chassis as well. Route 2 or 4 gauge cable from the battery compartment to some sort of distribution block in the rear for who knows what. Stuff like that.
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  #6  
Old April 19th, 2006, 07:15 AM
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Also a great time to Galv a bunch of stuff. Also, sound deadning to make thinks a lot quieter. I would also x-line or similar the interior rear, seatbox and front floor.
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  #7  
Old April 19th, 2006, 02:40 PM
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Galvanizing and cad plating are useful. Galvanize all of the big stuff. Cad plating is good for the smaller stuff, particularly if it has threads.

If you're planning to make any changes, test those pieces together before you galvalize to save you the headache of trying to fit not-quite-matched freshly galzanized items together. Lesson learned from experience.
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Old April 19th, 2006, 03:14 PM
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Galvanize everything steel.
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  #9  
Old April 19th, 2006, 03:26 PM
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Peter Sherman
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The frame will deff get hot dipped. I have a friend with a Galv co so thats a given.
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  #10  
Old April 19th, 2006, 03:43 PM
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I did all the steel stuff and the bulkhead for sure. Fender wells all brackets capping etc. You can then paint over the capping and bulkhead. IT will never rust.
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  #11  
Old April 20th, 2006, 12:57 AM
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Galvanizing off gasses and it can be painted, but only with those paints designed to work with it. Otherwise it may blister the paint and peel. By sheer chance, some works, some don't but you can definetely take the guess out of it and get the ones that do up front.
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  #12  
Old April 20th, 2006, 09:00 AM
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Peter Sherman
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I have galvanized the capings & b pillar on my 110 so I am pretty familiar with that procedure.
I do plan on galvanizing the bulkhead the frame some of the roll bars & front bumper.
Does linex prevent the LR blisters???
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  #13  
Old April 20th, 2006, 02:28 PM
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Saying, "Galvanize everything that's steel" sounds great but, in fact is a little impractical. Specifically anything relating to the drive-line or suspension are questionable. Axles, driveshafts, radius arms, etc. Too bad, too, because I'm not a big fan of powder coating.
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  #14  
Old April 20th, 2006, 09:27 PM
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Galvanize everything steel that does not need to move.

Better?

Shock towers, bulkhead, breakfast, frame, capping, support ribs, door frames, third brake light bar, rear bumper, front bumper, etc.

I have never seen a driveshaft rust out, or for that matter a radius arm.

Axle cases are cheap and if blasted, painted, and either undercoated or waxyoiled they will be ok.

I personally would leave all the galvanizing in its natural state. I like that look. If it bothers you paint the truck silver/grey and it will blend it. DO NOT try to paint galvanized parts. They always look like crap and/or peel.

Go with the rover chrome [galvanizing] look. chicks dig it.

Ron
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  #15  
Old April 21st, 2006, 09:36 AM
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Peter Sherman
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I have had great luck painting over galv.
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  #16  
Old April 21st, 2006, 10:44 AM
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be wary galvanizing sheetmetal--it can be done, but discuss it with the galvanizer. Since metals expand and contract differently, sometimes you can get sheet metal warpage, particularly with the Bulkhead. I was told (but am not an expert) that it can definetly be done but that it requires a little more attention by the galvanizer with respect to dip time and heat or something. Just check it out--I am not stating a fact here, just second hand knowledge.
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  #17  
Old April 21st, 2006, 01:27 PM
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I personally would leave all the galvanizing in its natural state.

I'm with Ron on this. Natural galvanizing is the right look. Take plenty of pictures when the galvanizing is fresh. You'll really appreciate them later.
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  #18  
Old April 21st, 2006, 01:30 PM
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Peter Sherman
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LOL I belive the right look belongs to the guy paying the bills.
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