Bottom line on chassis brands - Defender Source
Defender Source  

Go Back   Defender Source > Non-Technical Discussions > Misc. Chit-Chat


Reply
 
Thread Tools
  #1  
Old December 31st, 2014, 01:04 PM
rankar's Avatar
rankar
Status: Offline
Randy
97 SW #2236 (Maggie)
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: CT
Posts: 1,117
Registry
Bottom line on chassis brands

I've done some research here and I'm still undecided about a galvanized chassis. Some offer theirs with threads chased after dipping, finished edges, etc. And, other brands don't even mention this leading one to believe that it could be rougher upon receipt.

So what brand chassis or source do you guys recommend for a NAS 90?
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2  
Old December 31st, 2014, 01:20 PM
sonoronos's Avatar
sonoronos
Status: Online
Ed
None
Member
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Arlington, VA
Posts: 5,532
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by rankar View Post
Some offer theirs with threads chased after dipping, finished edges, etc.
I did an entire frame off on a stock chassis that was galvanized. I'm not sure what qualifies as "finished edges" but there were certainly no threads in the chassis anywhere that needed to be chased.

Are there actually threads on a NAS chassis?

From what I've read, you should really be most concerned about dimensional accuracy and metal thickness. Some chassis are more accurate and/or stronger than others.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old December 31st, 2014, 01:33 PM
rankar's Avatar
rankar
Status: Offline
Randy
97 SW #2236 (Maggie)
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: CT
Posts: 1,117
Registry
Good points. I assumed if you're in the business of selling a chassis that it would be dimensionally correct.

I've got two soft spots on my chassis, so I figured just get a new one.

But is it legit to cut out the soft spots, weld in new pieces then galvanize? I'd love to keep the original chassis...
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #4  
Old December 31st, 2014, 01:33 PM
One Ten's Avatar
One Ten
Status: Offline
Sam
1994 NAS SW
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 1,200
I did a build with a brand new Marsland chassis and was very happy with the quality. All threaded areas were re-tapped after galvanizing (i.e. bumper mounts under rear cross member, etc)
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old December 31st, 2014, 01:36 PM
Red90's Avatar
Red90
Status: Offline
John B.
1991 Defender 90, 200TDI
Site Team
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Calgary
Posts: 9,237
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by rankar View Post
Good points. I assumed if you're in the business of selling a chassis that it would be dimensionally correct.
No a simple thing with a Land Rover as dimensional accuracy from the factory is plus or minus an inch.
__________________
Pissing people off on the "net" since 1983.

Land Rover. Turning owners into mechanics since 1948.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old December 31st, 2014, 01:42 PM
rankar's Avatar
rankar
Status: Offline
Randy
97 SW #2236 (Maggie)
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: CT
Posts: 1,117
Registry
Holy crap!
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old December 31st, 2014, 02:04 PM
cgalpin's Avatar
cgalpin
Status: Offline
Charles Galpin
'94 D90 ST, '63 SeriesIIA
Site Team
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: South Riding, VA
Posts: 11,625
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by rankar View Post
But is it legit to cut out the soft spots, weld in new pieces then galvanize? I'd love to keep the original chassis...
Yes, and even preferred since you have the original vin stampings.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by pendy
I'm here for the D's
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old December 31st, 2014, 02:18 PM
grnrvrs's Avatar
grnrvrs
Status: Offline
Paul
88
Member
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: west
Posts: 1,393
Quote:
Originally Posted by One Ten View Post
I did a build with a brand new Marsland chassis and was very happy with the quality. All threaded areas were re-tapped after galvanizing (i.e. bumper mounts under rear cross member, etc)
Same here. If any of the distributors offered them with thicker main rails, that would be a plus in my mind, however, I am very pleased with my Marsland chassis.
__________________
1970 SIIA 88, Sold
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old December 31st, 2014, 02:30 PM
evilfij's Avatar
evilfij
Status: Offline
evilfij
I have never seen a rover in person
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: on the internet
Posts: 14,688
Designa used to offer that option.
__________________
*not legal advice*
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old December 31st, 2014, 02:46 PM
rankar's Avatar
rankar
Status: Offline
Randy
97 SW #2236 (Maggie)
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: CT
Posts: 1,117
Registry
Thanks guys. Great idea about the beefier main rails, that's definitely something to consider doing to my oem chassis.
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old December 31st, 2014, 03:19 PM
jwb
Status: Offline
Jason
1988 110 CSW
Member
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: VA
Posts: 31
If interested in beefier rails then you might consider Richards Chassis, they use 2.5mm steel vs 2.0 mm on OEM/Marsland. Richards can also make with 3mm rear crossmember.
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old January 1st, 2015, 06:10 AM
sonoronos's Avatar
sonoronos
Status: Online
Ed
None
Member
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Arlington, VA
Posts: 5,532
Registry
another thing is the rear tub brackets. some chassis have the option of a two-piece tub bracket, vs earlier chassis in which the tub supports were welded onto the rear crossmember.

my truck has the earlier welded construction and it is a pain compared to the two piece type. the two piece type also allows you to adjust the door gaps much more precisely, which is arguably one of the few places where tolerances actually seem to matter on the truck
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old January 1st, 2015, 08:05 AM
Rocky's Avatar
Rocky
Status: Offline
Chris
72 + D1 drivetrain
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Colonies Aka Boston
Posts: 8,778
Can't recall who made my galvy chassis that I got from ABP.

If you take your OEM, repair it, Duncan in Everett Mass has done chassis in the past. They can even colorgalve it.
__________________
A friend of mine runs a land rover / range rover specialty repair shop. Based on his experience, they are capable of stopping anywhere, anytime, at any cost.

I don't know about the brakes, only their unreliability.
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old January 1st, 2015, 09:17 AM
Bill Larson's Avatar
Bill Larson
Status: Offline
Bill Larson
97 D90 SW
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: AUS
Posts: 6,563
If you keep the original chassis just make sure you document the repairs and use a professional if you're not doing the work. After it's done depending on your level of teardown, use a rust neutralizer and inhibitor in the frame. Then Waxhol the heck out of it...look forward to your updates. Good Luck!!
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old January 2nd, 2015, 11:17 AM
sonoronos's Avatar
sonoronos
Status: Online
Ed
None
Member
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Arlington, VA
Posts: 5,532
Registry
This is what I'm talking about (TD5 rear crossmember)

http://www.marsland-chassis.co.uk/td...ossmember.html
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old January 2nd, 2015, 01:40 PM
NPT90's Avatar
NPT90
Status: Offline
JT
D90 óriginalé
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: DC/MD
Posts: 2,772
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
This is what I'm talking about (TD5 rear crossmember)

http://www.marsland-chassis.co.uk/td...ossmember.html
Dave at urban stocks RC usually
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old January 2nd, 2015, 05:36 PM
lordhelemt's Avatar
lordhelemt
Status: Offline
Paul
1995 D90 #2620 & NAS 110
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Arlington, VA
Posts: 1,113
AB had a sweet sale on RCs last month
__________________
RIP 1994 D90 #999 (engine fire 2002). We'll miss you.
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old January 3rd, 2015, 07:19 AM
rankar's Avatar
rankar
Status: Offline
Randy
97 SW #2236 (Maggie)
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: CT
Posts: 1,117
Registry
Thanks guys, obviously a lot more to research and consider.

------ Follow up post added January 3rd, 2015 07:21 AM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Larson View Post
If you keep the original chassis just make sure you document the repairs and use a professional if you're not doing the work. After it's done depending on your level of teardown, use a rust neutralizer and inhibitor in the frame. Then Waxhol the heck out of it...look forward to your updates. Good Luck!!
Bill, would you still recommend galvanizing the original chassis after repairs? Or did you mean something else when you recommended rust inhibitor?
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old January 3rd, 2015, 03:51 PM
Jymmiejamz's Avatar
Jymmiejamz
Status: Offline
Jimmy
1995 D90 SW #365
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Brooklyn, NY
Posts: 3,468
Registry
Personally, I would much rather have an original chassis that has been galvanised. The problem is that you might not be able to tell how bad it actually is until it is blasted. The metal could be very thin and it might be past the point of being worth repairing.
__________________
Car Camping Collective founding member and Treasurer
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old January 3rd, 2015, 04:18 PM
flananuts
Status: Offline
Matthew
LRC Customs #003 D110 Soft Top
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Jersery Shore
Posts: 671
Registry
Brewie212 is building my 110 on a Richards Chassis I ordered through Randy Kremer. When I saw it before it shipped down, the quality was impressive and all the threads looked to be clean and ready for installation.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Lower Navigation
Go Back   Defender Source > Non-Technical Discussions > Misc. Chit-Chat

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Water Pump Brands petminded Defender Technical Discussions 4 May 9th, 2014 02:17 AM
What adds more value: early original chassis or galvanized chassis? nathanwind Misc. Chit-Chat 25 December 7th, 2012 09:49 AM
Front brake line - why hard line & flex line? jefhuf Defender Technical Discussions 5 January 13th, 2012 09:03 AM
Line Lock for Winch Line Maine 110 The Vendors Loft 6 February 7th, 2006 06:47 AM
removing weather stripping from door bottom JRowe Defender Technical Discussions 4 November 6th, 2003 01:53 PM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:47 AM.


Copyright