Bleeding brakes on RRC - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old March 7th, 2015, 08:26 PM
phunter
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phunter
1993 NAS 110
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Bleeding brakes on RRC

A leaking caliper led me to replace both front calipers and pads which led to emptying the master cylinder.
I followed the rave instructions using assistant with hose and jar. These instructions include bleeding all 4 wheels as well as abs pump and accumulator.

At the end of the day I am left with hardly any pedal and a pump that won't turn off. I am certain all the nipples are tight with no leaks. I only let pump run for 45 seconds before I turned off the ignition.

Prior to this project I had abs system in good working order. Any and all suggestions are appreciated.
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  #2  
Old March 7th, 2015, 08:42 PM
the rover shop
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shayne young
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The RRC has 2 separate system, that's why there are 2 lines going to each caliper, one is the power brakes and one is the manual system...in case you lose the power side.. Make sure you bled the correct one...it's pretty easy to see which is which, with the ignition off pump the pedal 10-20 times and then crack both bleed nipples and have someone push down on the pedal..the manual one will squirt fluid out, bleed that system normally by having someone pump the pedal and do all 4 wheels... Then making sure the fluid reservoir is completely topped off...crack the other nipple at the right rear and with a hose connected turn the ignition on and the brake pedal slightly depressed ... It should pump fluid out that nipple, since there is no real load on the pump it takes a long time running to overheat it...so I wouldn't be worried about that... Just make sure you keep the reservoir topped up..once you see clear fluid coming out the nipple with no aeration, lock it off and turn the ignition off.. Wait a couple of minutes and repeat the sequence on the other wheels..
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Old March 7th, 2015, 08:55 PM
phunter
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phunter
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Thanks for these suggestions and instructions. I hope to try again in the morning. Another quart of fluid is needed.
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  #4  
Old March 7th, 2015, 10:23 PM
the rover shop
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shayne young
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A quart..??? At least, I sometimes go through way more than that..it's a pain..
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  #5  
Old March 8th, 2015, 09:17 AM
phunter
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Thanks. More fluid going through might be where I went wrong. Is it necessary to bleed the pump and accumulator under the hood? The rovers north instructions leaves that out.
I'll try again.
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  #6  
Old March 8th, 2015, 09:28 AM
the rover shop
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shayne young
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The accumulator is a one way hose..whatever air gets trapped in there has no way of escaping until the system is charged with brake fluid pressure and then you pump the pedal numerous times and it pushes the air back out, this can only be done over the period of a couple of applications, you can crack the bleed nipple at the pump and it will release it but due to the pressure behind it it always looks frothy like air is in it.. When you start you can crack that nipple open, run a hose from the nipple into the reservoir and turn the ignition on, this cycles the fluid getting the air out and doesn't waste any...once you see it clear you can shut off the nipple and you should hear the pump start to strain and then shut off, if you have a good accumulator this may take a couple of mins..depending on how good your pump is..
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  #7  
Old March 8th, 2015, 11:06 AM
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Phillip
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bleed them as you would any vehicle, start with the bleed nipple farthest from the MC and work your way around. it can be time consuming, the last time i flushed my line it took nearly two quarts. ive done the same method on ,y Hunter and the LWB with no issues
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  #8  
Old March 8th, 2015, 11:39 AM
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Jeff B
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rover4x4 View Post
bleed them as you would any vehicle, start with the bleed nipple farthest from the MC and work your way around. it can be time consuming, the last time i flushed my line it took nearly two quarts. ive done the same method on ,y Hunter and the LWB with no issues

x2

I have one of those Motive power bleeders
I think I had at least 3 or 4 bottles of fluid for the bleeder last year when I did it.

Can't recall any issues for the Hunter(non-ABS) or the LWB(ridiculous ABS system)

.
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  #9  
Old March 8th, 2015, 11:59 AM
phunter
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phunter
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Thanks. Do you mess with the nipples under the hood or is that not needed. My reservoir was almost empty when I first started and I've already tried to bleed the pump and accumulator nipples once. I'm afraid that the nipples under the hood may be easy to put air into the system. All thoughts are greatly appreciated
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  #10  
Old March 8th, 2015, 12:27 PM
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Bill Adams
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Shouldn't need to fool with bleeders on ABS pump and block.
I use the power seat to push the pedal down with a "pusher" stick. Then crack the nipple to release pressure , and immediately close it. Back off the seat and repeat. Do that for all the circuits.
Rovers North has a step by step on their tech section
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  #11  
Old March 8th, 2015, 09:32 PM
phunter
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phunter
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I have now done it a second time and got quite a bit of air out especially in rear nipples. Now the abs pump goes off after 12 to 15 seconds of turning on the ignition and I have good pedal. Is this a happy ending or not? It seemed before this project the pump would only run for under 5 seconds.
All opinions welcome. As you can tell I am trying to learn to be a rover enthusiast. Thanks to all
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  #12  
Old March 8th, 2015, 09:46 PM
the rover shop
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shayne young
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Let it pressure up and shut off...turn the ignition off and pump the pedal 15-20 times..then Turn the ignition on and repeat a couple of times.. Extended run time now as opposed to last time can only mean air on the pressure side of the accumulator or brake booster section..doing this lets the pressure accumulator exhaust the fluid and air back I to the reservoir.. Air compresses much more than the fluid or the nitrogen chamber..Everything AFTER the master is not pressurized with the pedal not depressed..if you had a spongy pedal, that would mean air in the brake lines or calipers..after the master..
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