ARKONIK's Response to: Homeland Security took my 110 - Page 12 - Defender Source
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  #221  
Old November 27th, 2015, 07:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
Exactly. For $150000 I would expect a perfect truck.
where are you getting a 150k? more like 50k plus a 15k donor vehicle and another 10k in shipping/fees etc. not sure how much more you can expect on that budget.
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  #222  
Old November 27th, 2015, 07:44 PM
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I have had trouble uploading this photo of passenger door. One more try.
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  #223  
Old November 27th, 2015, 07:49 PM
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Joe this guy is actively working to satisfy your issues... He is devoting time,money and resources to you on a daily basis... why you feel it necessary to come on here in light of that is beyond me.... one thing if he wasn't responding or trying to address your problems. Cherie that sent money 21 months ago and couldn't get a return call or email I can understand...
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  #224  
Old November 27th, 2015, 07:49 PM
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The water travels down from the anterior lower portion of the window. It is open there between the skin and window frame. The water then exits the lower edge of the door as it should, but then settles on an added stainless steel plate and is absorbed by the carpeting. I have been advised that the water should exit the bottom of the door and then flow outward, not inward.


Listen guys, I don't pretend to be mechanically well experienced. So, let's let the experts decide on what the design should be. The rusted doors were pointed out to me by Lanny Clark when he took a casual look at the truck last summer. Frankly, I wouldn't have looked.
The rear door photo was prior to my applying Krud Kutter to the rust. There were also rust drip trails on the check plate on the rocker panels.

I don't know where all the water is coming from The rear cargo deck was soaked as well as the carpet under the rear bench seats.

It is supposed to rain tomorrow and I will drive the truck to Prestige and they can see the truck for themselves.

I did not pay anything close to 150,000 for the truck.

I know nothing about the mechanic referred to by Andy. He suggested it as a cure to the problems.
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  #225  
Old November 27th, 2015, 07:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phoenix37 View Post
where are you getting a 150k? more like 50k plus a 15k donor vehicle and another 10k in shipping/fees etc. not sure how much more you can expect on that budget.
Havens51 said the truck cost him $150000.
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  #226  
Old November 27th, 2015, 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by bjf View Post
Hard to tell where rust is coming from in pics but I would assume the crap prep is why there is rust. So when is the mechanic coming?
Likely. It looks like the watery rust that runs out of hinge and hinge bolts on most trucks. Take off those door panels and you might find a source. The one of the front door prob has some rust behind the window tracks.

Not what a six figure build should look like.
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  #227  
Old November 27th, 2015, 07:56 PM
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You are just not in my shoes. Andy received a very nice price for his efforts. Exactly what have I received for my considerable time and effort to get this truck right? And I repeat, nothing except the air conditioning issue has been resolved
6 visits to Valley Auto

3 visits to Finishing Touch auto stereo

2 visits to the local body shop.

Does this sound like fun?
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  #228  
Old November 27th, 2015, 07:57 PM
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Andy also clearly said they put 4000 hours labour into rah truck. Even at $20 an hour that is $80000 in labour alone. The trucks should be trouble free for years with that much work into them. They should be much much better that new.
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  #229  
Old November 27th, 2015, 07:58 PM
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There is a 110 for sale at Prestige for 150,000. I never claimed to have paid that.
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  #230  
Old November 27th, 2015, 08:05 PM
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a 19J with air con? the thing is a boat anchor to begin with and then you start slapping on a bunch of ancillaries load it down with every bolt on accessory and piece of interior trim you can think of and I'm surprised it can even get out of your driveway.
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  #231  
Old November 27th, 2015, 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by JSBriggs View Post
To clarify for those not in the know (who didnt win the pig-in-a-poke european vacation) the prices seem to vary wildly based on the customer, and the options chosen. -Jeff
Well I wouldn't term it a pig in a poke. But hey no English lessons needed by you Briggs. Nor was it a European Vacation. But hey let's help ol Joe deal with a vehicle that he paid $65K for. Nothing more. Nothing less. Add the shipping and he is all in.

As for his major issue we (John, Jason and I) drove a 2014 Puma that leaked, plus a 2015 Puma at the Land Rover experience that leaked - in fact the RR that we also had actually FLOATED it was so tight. But that isn't a Defender. Maybe ol Joes expectations in what he was getting were not met.

I expect that his major issues can be dealt with after a few small tweaks with expectations. But I also would say that Andy is going above and beyond with after care. Something no one on here has ever seen.
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  #232  
Old November 27th, 2015, 08:51 PM
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Leaked, LEAKED?!! I am talking about soaked carpets with rain fall only, on parked truck, no driving.

You are also missing my point. Andy's accommodations have not resolved the issues. For what ever reasons, I am no better off now, months later, than I was at the outset.

The replaced alternator has not rectified the problem, the installed gaskets at the bottom of the doors have not diminished the water ingress.

I paid 76,000 all in. I think you are significantly over estimating the shipping costs.
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  #233  
Old November 27th, 2015, 09:48 PM
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Can you post a pic of the truck. Exterior and interior please
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Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
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  #234  
Old November 27th, 2015, 10:08 PM
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The real trick here is going to be to find out where the water is getting in. Sure we can all guess but at the end of the day we need to KNOW. I have dealt with a few of these trucks but ones that were built very early in on andys learning curve. I have it under good authority that a lot has been rectified since then... However, having said that I think you will be fighting an uphill battle if you are hoping to keep the interior of the car bone dry...my 2006 leaks... My advice would be to pull the floor carpets out if they are glued in and make them removable, even if that means making a trimmed floor mat that can be removed when (not IF) it gets wet, it's a defender,it's meant for wet dirty men to get in and out of it..the women can have their watertight range rovers. Once the carpets are removed you will be able to watch where the water gets in. At the very back edge of the bonnet where it meets the bulkhead there is a water channel on the bulkhead itself, please make sure there is a rubber weatherstip on that channel, it is designed to seal against the underside of the hood to stop the water rushing off the back of the hood and overwhelming the firewall seals.. Make sure that the pedal boxes have their caps and covers on them and make sure the bulkhead flaps are closed..if they are even slightly opened water trickles down behind the dash and wets the carpet from underneath.. I often found that water gets in where the steering column goes through the bulkhead, good amounts of dum dum seals these areas up...but only apply after the area is thoroughly dried.. If you need clarification of these points let me know and I can make a quick video.
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  #235  
Old November 27th, 2015, 10:16 PM
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Myself, I am waiting to see what the turd polisher looks like. I mean, that would be the tool the mechanic needs to bring with him. I have always been curious to see what one looks like.

havens51, You should tell Andy if he was actually to stand behind his product, he would replace the truck, not stick some band-aids on it. I'm, sorry, but sending over a mechanic to fix those issues is a nice gesture, but it's a band-aid.
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  #236  
Old November 27th, 2015, 10:16 PM
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As far as the rust stains coming through is concerned unfortunately I have seen this before also, but even brand new factory doors rust through, that is is why they have changed to galvanized ones now... But once again these points are relatively easily remedied, take a good quality rust proofing wax oil product and spray a good spray into the seams and joints area, it will penetrate the joints and dry sealing them so that standing water doesn't get to create the surface rust and thence the staining.once again this should be done only after thoroughly drying the areas. I use a very good product but the ne of it escapes me at the moment. I know these are hot the remedies you want to hear and you may say....why should I have to do this when it was supposed to have been done already.... The point is, you can either sit around bitching about it and not getting anything done, or you can take the bull by the horns and then you know it's done....I don't mean that in an attacking or nasty manner...just trying to help, as most of these other posts arent helping you get to a resolution.
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  #237  
Old November 27th, 2015, 10:22 PM
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Can get some interior photos tomorrow.
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  #238  
Old November 27th, 2015, 10:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the rover shop View Post
The real trick here is going to be to find out where the water is getting in. Sure we can all guess but at the end of the day we need to KNOW. I have dealt with a few of these trucks but ones that were built very early in on andys learning curve. I have it under good authority that a lot has been rectified since then... However, having said that I think you will be fighting an uphill battle if you are hoping to keep the interior of the car bone dry...my 2006 leaks... My advice would be to pull the floor carpets out if they are glued in and make them removable, even if that means making a trimmed floor mat that can be removed when (not IF) it gets wet, it's a defender,it's meant for wet dirty men to get in and out of it..the women can have their watertight range rovers. Once the carpets are removed you will be able to watch where the water gets in. At the very back edge of the bonnet where it meets the bulkhead there is a water channel on the bulkhead itself, please make sure there is a rubber weatherstip on that channel, it is designed to seal against the underside of the hood to stop the water rushing off the back of the hood and overwhelming the firewall seals.. Make sure that the pedal boxes have their caps and covers on them and make sure the bulkhead flaps are closed..if they are even slightly opened water trickles down behind the dash and wets the carpet from underneath.. I often found that water gets in where the steering column goes through the bulkhead, good amounts of dum dum seals these areas up...but only apply after the area is thoroughly dried.. If you need clarification of these points let me know and I can make a quick video.
First off welcome back. Now on to crucifying you. I find it hysterical that you are defending this company. If you google them your post about how awful their trucks are comes up. You were merciless. So you either had a stroke and don't remember or perhaps are their new go to guy to fix trucks. Either way I don't really care.

Also funny you mention a learning curve. Really? If your business is restoring defenders and you are UK based, by the time your business model is restore/ship to the USA you better damn well know what you are doing. There is no excuse for any truck they ship over being garbage.

I have no clue what is going on with this truck. I have been in new trucks that leak and old trucks that don't. It isn't an exact science but to listen to Andy come on here and discuss how he seam seals panels to give a better than new fit and feel yet he doesn't bother to check if the trucks leak just shows how sloppy their work is.

I would love to know why you are suddenly talking about how their quality has gone up and how you have it on good authority. Personally and don't take any offense to this but your definition of quality means nothing to me (cubby, bondo, go pro cage).

I would like to hear it from satisfied customers or it is meaningless.

As for this guy, if it was my truck I could deal with fixing the issues but he does bring up the point that Andy won't take the truck back even though that was in the contract. More reason not to deal with them in my opinion.
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  #239  
Old November 28th, 2015, 12:15 AM
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Thanks you Barry, I was wondering how long it would be before you got around to welcoming me in your own special way.... As far as crucifying me, that's what you call crucifying me, seriously Barry, I expected better than that from a man of your caliber and vicious acidic hateful tongue. But I am sure you will rise to the occasion and not disappoint me..
Now onto the matter at hand, yes, I did previously write regarding my experiences with the LRUK trucks, and funnily enough my major points were echoed by others having the same problems but moreso water leaks as with this truck. I admit, I cannot understand the necessity to adhere carpeting to the floors of these trucks (if this is still being done and if it is done in this particular example) no matter what happens I think it is beneficial to be able to remove the wet dog and let it air out.. I am NOT defending or attacking anyone or any company and I am definitely NOT arkonics go to repair guy, I am retired, just like you but without the big bank account...
As far as my comment regarding learning curves, we are all still learning something new everyday, (I think even Stephen will agree with me) whether it be something like what suppliers have the better spray adhesive that seems to work fine in the English climate but as soon as it gets to the hot humid climate of south Florida it comes apart, or what parts we can get away with as britpart and what we can't, (door catches as a perfect example), what materials hold up better etc etc. I am sure we would all like to have the boundless knowledge of defenders as you do but alas, we don't, so us normal people continue to learn..and I may be speaking out of turn here but I believe Andys background has not always been in the automotive area, so his learning curve may have been steeper than most of ours, but he would not be the first person to turn a love or passion into a career. Let's face it, Land Rover have been doing this a long time and they still make mistakes with their parts suppliers and sub contract forces that don't immediately show to fail, take the lr3 dash for an example, at least Andy is trying to assist in remedying problems better than Land Rover is with the replacing of the dashes..and that problem may be more of a problem in a certain market than others. Same with the LRUK trucks, water ingress may not be an issue in Saudi Arabia, not saying this is the case but I have seen customers complain they get water in the trucks when they wash it, one particular customer I had to resort to having her show me how she washers her car, she was pointing the pressure stream right at the door seal sideways...well duh... We can all sit here and bash each other and everyone who tries to do something here, coz that's what we do on this forum, or we can offer up constructive ideas and work to getting the issues resolved, heaven forbid we might actually learn something and may benefits someone else down the track. Orr, we can just keep ragging on people.
I have spoken to Andy over the last year and I also have spoken to other recipients of his trucks, as well as spoken to people who have toured his facility, and I do believe he has made efforts to address the build quality problems he has had with prior trucks, but nooo, you guys still wanna rag on someone/everyone for trying to improve...some people actually do take the criticism as being constructive and learn from it..but hey, that's the great American way...just look at the news and you'll see that's what you do.. Everyone wants to be a critical sensationalist..
While I don't necessarily agree with some of his build or design mods etc, I don't have to...it's not my business and I'm not buying one..so to each their own..that's why they make chocolate AND strawberry..
I will still stand by my previous statements, Arkonic trucks are some of the cleanest rust free trucks I have ever seen come out of anywhere... And that right there sets them apart from 90 percent of the other suppliers of these trucks.. But that's just my opinion..
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  #240  
Old November 28th, 2015, 12:29 AM
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Shayne,

I never said I knew everything. I have had my share of bad experiences with trucks and mechanics but I do know one thing. A turd is a turd.

We do learn things every day but defenders aren't new. The only thing that is new is people capitalizing on the desire of Americans to have these trucks. I hope people see these threads and think long and hard before they buy something from outside the USA.

Congrats on your retirement. Someone really should have told me I was retired too. I guess I've been going to work every day out of habit not necessity.

------ Follow up post added November 27th, 2015 10:32 PM ------

And for posterity:

Quote:
Originally Posted by the rover shop View Post
I have had the "pleasure" of seeing 6 of their polished turds... But thank you, I have made good money from deturding them... I think we are yet to have one that has had a decent engine in it.. They are polished turds...new door catches are failing left right and centre, doors flying open because of shitpart latches, fires in wiring harnesses, shagged trans and transfer boxes, very poor quality bubbling lifting new paint, new engines installed...(13 years ago).. Rains more water inside than outside, damaged new paint covered with brushed on house paint, engines that consume more oil than gas.. Overheating issues.. Rust stains running down brand new paint..new headliners falling down, haphazard and spotty sound insulation installation..but they look pretty pulling into my shop on a flatbed..

------ Follow up post added February 19th, 2015 05:24 PM ------

And if anyone needs pics or videos I will be happy to back it up..
http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...0-a-60038.html
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