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Old July 26th, 2008, 07:57 PM
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paul girard
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any other things to look for

So I think i have found my holy grail 90. I have a pretty good grasp of what to look out for but wanted to run my list by you and see if anyone has other things they have run into that cost them money after the purchase. It is a 95 SW with 25k on the odometer. It was a central (dry) California vehicle until it was driven to Florida in 2004. Prior to driving out here it had a "60K" maintenance done on it at the stealership. Everything looks straight on it and it was primarily garaged most of it's life. Original owner (female) so does not look as though it has ever seen offroad dirt or any type of water.Everything on it is stock(still has original tires in good shape) and it did have any options available put on it at time of purchase- winch etc. What I see currently wrong with it.. will not start, mechanic has already replaced relay's and can get it to turn over when he does it directly but it looks like the ECU is a goner and needs to be replaced. From what I have been told it will cost $1,000 for the ECU. The oil cooler lines have not been replaced. There is rust at the points where the external roll cage bolts onto the body.
So my question is to redo the oil cooler lines how much$
How much is the ECU$
How much for a SS bolt replacement on the vehicle$ And how much work is this, can one guy do it by himself ? In how much time?

I know that there are specific things to have checked like compression etc. - since it is sitting at the mechanic right now what should I have him check and what are the standard settings for these ie what is the compression supposed to be etc.
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  #2  
Old July 26th, 2008, 08:56 PM
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Phillip
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Hmm sounds fishy. What relays were replaced? A non running D-90 with no rust Id say 15k at very most. Could be something major at least this would be my line. Why would an ECU on a D90 with 25k miles be bad? Why a 60k service? SS bolts shouldnt be needed, there was a 4.2 ECU for sale here a few days ago. Any 14CUX ECU will work I think. I would be asking a lot of questions if I were you.
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Old July 27th, 2008, 01:07 PM
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paul girard
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Thank's Phillip, believe me I am suspicious as H**L right now.Did a car fax on it and the miles and history look accurate. She has given me go ahead to contact the stealership she had all the work done in CA. She had the 60k service done so as to have everything checked out before driving 3,000 miles across country. It had sat for over a year and then she went to use it and it would not start. I don't think it is the ecu I suspect due to it sitting it had a rodent eat the wires to the starter. But that is my assumption based on what I have seen in the TX Panhandle.

So is there anything to look out for that are generally problematic on the 95's like the tranny on the 94's. I know that some people have had to drop 10k into a low mile 90 due to the lack of use. I am trying to get an idea as to what did that 10k buy. So I can check out those areas ahead of time and get the price adjusted accordingly. If I just tell her that due to it sitting she is going to have to drop the price 10k she is going to laugh at me. If I have those areas checked out and find that the head gasket is leaking or whatever. Then I have information to get her to drop the price. There is not a rover dealership nearby her. In fact the nearest one is in Alabama, Georgia or down were I am at in Clearwater. I do not have a rover "specialist" in the area to side check and that will know what to look for automatically.I am trying to get a list of things that I can give to any mechanic to check out. If anyone can help me that would be most appreciated.

I cannot buy this and then have it sit broken while I throw 10k at it over the next year, it will be used as daily driver and I want to get the price down and or have her fix everything wrong with it so I don't get caught out. I did look around the site for a comprehensive list and could not find one.

I did see there is a thread on the front page from a guy looking at a 110 and there are things like the leaking pinion seal on rear axle (it is leather) and make sure the salisbury has oil in it.
Pitted swivel balls. Are these things only applicable to a 110 ? or are these things to check on the 90 as well?
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Old August 3rd, 2008, 08:40 PM
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paul girard
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???? Did I piss someone off here at one point and not know it? I could really use some help here.
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Old August 3rd, 2008, 09:06 PM
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Neil Steinhagen
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Paul, I don't think that you've p'd anyone off. It's just that this sort of thread is all over, you just have to search. As for the tranny, I think the problem was the LT77 where as the one you're looking at is most likely an R380. Where is the Reverse? If it's down and to the right, then you've got an R380. Now, some will say that the LT77 is just as tough as the R380. I'm too green to say either way, but I have an R380. Use the search feature and look for how to check spline wear through the PTO cover. This will either give you piece of mind or a bargaining chip to drop her price.

Don't think that just because it's checked out by a dealership all is well. I bought mine from a dealership and it had the 2nd gear grind if shifted too quickly which was not found during the inspection. It also had the dealership's 60K mile service. You too can go to a 2-week course and become a certified LR mechanic. There are some excellent mechanics at a few of the LR dealerships who give some great input to this board, but I think that the majority of the dealerships lack the expertise on D's simply because of their scarcity.

What is your level of shade-tree mechanic? LRs can easily be daily drivers with simple skills, a little pre-planned maintenance here and there, and a few on-board spares.

As far as your Holy Grail, what is the asking price? This will trigger a lot more responses. If it's too high, trust me, someone will let you know.

Coincidently, mine is for sale, very reasonable price, most importantly, running, and I'm not going to hide anything from you. http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...ad.php?t=16214.
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Old August 4th, 2008, 06:54 AM
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Hans Haase
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ECU's can be had for a huge amount less than that. $100-$150 is the range on e-bay for used units, and that has been coming down as more older discoveries come off the road.


Oil cooler lines, with a variety of styles, can be done for about $200. Or just disconnect the cooler, remove the sandwich plate, and it costs nothing.

-Hans
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Old August 4th, 2008, 05:09 PM
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Ken Jagolta
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Actually some guys that are in the Rover biz might be put off a little by your obvious disdain for Land Rover Dealers.
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Old August 9th, 2008, 12:43 PM
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Taylor
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BOBCAT110
Actually some guys that are in the Rover biz might be put off a little by your obvious disdain for Land Rover Dealers.
Coming from someone that works at a "stealership", I agree with this 100%.
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  #9  
Old August 9th, 2008, 02:19 PM
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Scott
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So, did you buy it? I am guessing No as you have not posted anything in almost a week.
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Old August 11th, 2008, 12:58 AM
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paul girard
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I have not bought yet, I am caught in the work versus play world and I travel alot so I don't always have time to think about anything else. I need to get her to answer my last set of questions before we can start negotiating.

On the stealership deal I have to be honest and say that all work, including oil changes etc. (other than changing the windshield wipers) it all gets done at my stealership. I do not have a problem with them - when I have enough information on a repair or work and can see what is BS and what REALLY needs to be done. Anywhere you go in life there are honest dependable people and there are the people that you would not trust to hold your car keys. I know that they are in business to make a profit and don't begrudge them that in the slightest. Once I get my 90 I will try and do what I can on it simply to save money - but I have no doubt that it will spend a % of it's life in the Dimmit Rover Service bay getting itself sorted out. In fact I have talked to one of the rover sales people about doing a "pass-through" were they buy the truck and then finance it to me. I was given a very good price basically no mark up at all and when I asked about it she told me that she could do it as they would make their money on the service work done on the vehicle. This to me is someone I would deal with and I would be more inclined to just have them do all the work simply because they are doing, what I would regard, as honest business instead of trying to gouge me for every dime I have.


Or if I had the money it would probably go on a trailer to ECR but I don't see that I can throw that kind of money at it yet.......
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