Any Classic blower motor experts here ? - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old June 29th, 2015, 08:13 PM
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Any Classic blower motor experts here ?

I have nothing on heat or a/c. After some searching it looks like this may be caused by dead resistor pack under the decker panel ?
http://www.okierover.com/fanresistor.htm



Is this the panacea ? http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/PRC8010
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  #2  
Old June 29th, 2015, 08:25 PM
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very common back in the day . no blower speed at all?
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Old June 29th, 2015, 08:33 PM
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no ac or heat blower motor action. I had read that when the connections get corroded it often kills even the high speed for both fans. Just remembered I owe you a phone call. Doohhh
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  #4  
Old June 29th, 2015, 08:44 PM
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I think there is a trick to do this, I'm sure if there is you can find it on Rangerovers.net. I want to say you access it from the cowl or something like that.
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Old June 29th, 2015, 08:56 PM
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Test the fan switch first. It is the quicker easier fix. If not, the resistor pack is under the cowl. You should be able to barely access it if you remove the black plastic vent intakes...carefully. It is towards the passenger side as I recall.

Switch - Heater & A/C - 4 Position - 1989-1994 (PRC5436 Same Fit As Part # PRC5436 ) - Land Rover switches/control unit/actuators from Atlantic British fan switch
Range Rover A/C Blower Motor Resistor (Same Fit As Genuine Part # PRC8010) resistor pack
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Old June 29th, 2015, 09:04 PM
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The AB resistor is the way to go, it was easy to install. My fan would only blow on high, the resistor was corroded
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Old June 29th, 2015, 09:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rover4x4 View Post
The AB resistor is the way to go, it was easy to install. My fan would only blow on high, the resistor was corroded
That's how I thought those resistors usually failed.
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Old June 29th, 2015, 09:48 PM
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going through the black vent is to only way to do it but there is a trick to get the harness to pass through the fire wall . you can unscrew it from the holder and check with the test light on each leg to see if there's power i'm sure that thing is rotted pretty good i was changing them alot when they were 2-3 yrs old
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Old June 29th, 2015, 10:11 PM
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Doug, I scored one of those AB resistors on Dweb for $40; barely used.
They turn up every now and then.

You will need someone with skinny little hands to get in the cowl vents to replace--


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  #10  
Old June 29th, 2015, 10:40 PM
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No fans prolly switch. The resistor will usually run on high even if low and mid are blown. If it were me I would look in the AC plenum to see if your 94 has the resistor pack in there and not under the cowl like the 93 and previous do. Pull the wood off and look.
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Old June 29th, 2015, 10:47 PM
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wood was off when I bought it. Previous owner was out of his element, just a little
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Old June 29th, 2015, 11:04 PM
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Yeh I just did an AC tune up three weekends ago. The heat/AC selector switch was bad, plus the sensor wires to the hose mounted AC engine temp sensor were not connected. Repaired those two items, charged with two full cans of R134, and off she went.

Ps I would not waste time or money on the external mounted resistor. If you do have one, yank the wires inside the cabin and wire on a delco coil type one and (screw glue rivet) it inside the plenum where it is in the air flow. They are about $15.
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  #13  
Old June 30th, 2015, 08:17 AM
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My '94 had the resistor in the cowl, once you get the bolts out use allen head or something so you can put the new ones in with a very long ratchet extension.

The AB resistor is the way to go and if that doesn't work, time to take the dash apart and that's where the fun really begins!

I've done it twice, people hate the job, but it isn't the worse job you can do, just takes time.

If you have nothing it could very well be the blower. AB has a kit for that too.
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Old July 4th, 2015, 08:53 PM
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Here's where i am. There is no voltage to the two dash switches with the key in the run position.
Doc Bang sent me the wiring diagram since my factory/bentley manual cuts off @ the 89 model year.
The 94 diagram shows three fuses and a relay. But where ? There is a single fuse in the fuse box and its fine.
I replaced all fuses in the dash fuse box with smart fuses today. Would these other two fuses be under the dash somewhere or under the passenger seat ? Also have the resistor under the cowl exposed but again no voltage going to it. Problem is elsewhere
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  #15  
Old July 4th, 2015, 11:01 PM
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The relays are behind the passenger kick panel. There's also an orange diode pack.
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  #16  
Old July 5th, 2015, 02:58 PM
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Bill,I told Uncle D I thought the relay was in that kick panel-I've never touched one?!

I have replaced 3 resistors in my time here...
What are the details on this relocation?

Also <hijack alert> what is the easiest way for me to rig up a functional A/C compressor in my LWB ?


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Old July 5th, 2015, 09:59 PM
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If I recall the diode pack is closest to the front top row followed by the two AC heater relays. If one of those is bad then yeh no power to switches.

For AC get a standard issue sanden compressor with serp belt pulley. Make adapter to mount compressor to timing case. Reconnect old lines and wiring. Charge with oil and 134a. Chill.
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  #18  
Old July 6th, 2015, 10:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
For AC get a standard issue sanden compressor with serp belt pulley. Make adapter to mount compressor to timing case. Reconnect old lines and wiring. Charge with oil and 134a. Chill.
I guess I'll need a Tdi tensioner pulley as well...where does it mount on the the 300??
I'm not able to go out and look at the moment...
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  #19  
Old July 6th, 2015, 10:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nomar View Post
I guess I'll need a Tdi tensioner puller as well...where does it mount on the the 300??
I'm not able to go out and look at the moment...
Mounts on the timing cover, you need the A/C timing cover for it to work
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Old July 6th, 2015, 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Z.G View Post
Mounts on the timing cover, you need the A/C timing cover for it to work
yeah- there are 4 nice big holes already there- I'll fab up a mount for the compressor ( once I have one in hand) and line it with the main pulley.

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