33s or 35s? - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old May 31st, 2016, 04:36 PM
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Stephan Laputka
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33s or 35s?

It's time for new tires and I'm having an internal debate. I have 33x12.5 r 15s on Golf Coast Rovers wheels with a 2 inch lift. Everything works great. Nothing rubs and the truck is great off road.. However.. she's getting older, I hate to damage my car, and I don't have quite the desire to grind over obstacles like I used to. I don't want to run harder trails that I already do, I just want the trails I do run to be less abusive on the Defender. Would 35s be the move or just put more armor underneath?

I have no sway bars and the Defender is VERY tippy. I'm really concerned about going 2 inches higher for that reason. As for the other big issue with 35s.. I have GBR axles, 50% reduction gear in the t-case and 4.15 gears. And a 4.6. I don't want to lift it any higher so I need to make it work with my current springs. What's the advice? Bigger tires is more wear on components but less dragging over stuff on the trail. I don't know. What do I do?

It's not a daily driver.
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  #2  
Old May 31st, 2016, 05:08 PM
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Raub A.
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I need new shoes as well running 33x12.5-15 BFG's the price on the 35x12.5-15 KM 2's the same. Decisions decisions.
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  #3  
Old May 31st, 2016, 05:10 PM
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I just went to 35s, they are I the mail. Super swamper ssr 35x10.50
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  #4  
Old May 31st, 2016, 05:42 PM
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Chris
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Tire price is the same, but I question would you end up regearing to compensate?
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  #5  
Old June 1st, 2016, 11:21 AM
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Stephan Laputka
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I already regeared once and won't be doing it again. I would hope I could turn 35s with 4.15 gears without much issue. With 33s and those gears it's pretty peppy all things considered. Hitting 70 used to be a tail wind affair but now it will 5th gear pass people going 85. However it is turning 3500 rpms to do so. Another reason I like the 33s.. truck performs relatively well on the highway. Can anyone comment how dramatic the performance drop is from 33 to 35?
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Old June 1st, 2016, 11:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocky View Post
Tire price is the same, but I question would you end up regearing to compensate?
Probably need to.
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  #7  
Old June 1st, 2016, 12:33 PM
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You won't need to regear for 35's if you already have 4.11's


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  #8  
Old June 1st, 2016, 01:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sflash868 View Post
I just want the trails I do run to be less abusive on the Defender. Would 35s be the move or just put more armor underneath?
Out of curiosity, how does increasing the radius of the tires by an inch make the trails less abusive on the Defender? I would think that going with armor would help a lot more?
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  #9  
Old June 1st, 2016, 02:31 PM
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Stephan Laputka
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Climbing obstacles mainly. to get up ledges or climb certain sized boulders or whatever, I have to bump it over whereas guys on slightly taller tires just crawl over. Sometimes it takes three or four attempts and it just seems like i'm slamming the truck harder and harder until it goes over something. It's not hitting anything that's not meant to be hit (skid plates and such) it just seems generally hard on the car. I'm not gonna start running easier stuff so this is an option to explore. Basically it will do everything now that rigs with taller tires will do I just have to take a run at it in some cases at speeds I would prefer to not be doing with a truck a really care about. If that makes any sense.
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  #10  
Old June 1st, 2016, 03:14 PM
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Todd Kendrick
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Going from 33's to 35's is not a big deal; I have been running 4.11's since 1999..............I am running Cooper SST Pro 35x12.5x15's that I got last summer and I really like them. They actually measure a little less than a 35" tire
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  #11  
Old June 1st, 2016, 03:28 PM
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If you don't want to lift the truck to comp for the extra tire then are you going to be concerned about the rubbing? At full tilt my 33's rub so I would assume your 35s will do more so with just a 2in lift over 35s.

For me 33s are a little easiler to live with as a DD and I can't recall a spot that I've been stuck in that would have benefitted from having 35s, per se.
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  #12  
Old June 1st, 2016, 08:13 PM
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Don Bunnell
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Before I sold my NAS 90 a few years ago I had just gotten 35's.

Setup was stock engine/gearbox and xfer case.

Rear axle had a Toy diff with 4.1's and the E-Locker. Front was stock Rover - open with 4.1 gears.

I had 1.5" spacers in front and none in the rear. Wheels were Disco steel 16x7.

I swapped the stock bump stops with 2" taller ones. Springs were 2" OME. I trimmed the fender flares where they rubbed.

I only got to use it once off road but it was at Rausch Creek and we ran a few different types of trails. I felt the 35's and the rear locker made a lot of the terrain easier/smoother. And keeping a 2" lift kept the 90 stable. IIRC all the other trucks had 33's and most had lockers. Just having that extra 1" or so under the diff I was able to go over the same lines with less hassle. And the 315 width tires found a ton of traction on the rocks, roots and mud. The downfalls were the wider steering radius and rubbing a bit (but that could be solved with more cutting of the flares).

I think your steel wheels are 16x8 and have a bigger offset so it should be even more stable and have better steering.

On my 110 I have 255's but if I can get the OM617 to put out more power I would like to go back to 35's.
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  #13  
Old June 1st, 2016, 09:08 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Stephan, find a local with 35's and swap tires for a day. See if you like the way it pulls and handles. No guesswork needed.
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  #14  
Old June 2nd, 2016, 12:02 AM
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Mark Bichin
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35s will rub while articulating with a 2" lift.
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  #15  
Old June 2nd, 2016, 08:39 AM
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Don Bunnell
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arcadeus View Post
35s will rub while articulating with a 2" lift.
I thought rubbing was dependent on bump stops rather than springs. In theory 3 - 4" lift springs could cause rubbing as well (if the coil count is the same).

And are you talking about flare rub or body rub?
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