Winch Power Cable 1/0 - Defender Source
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Old September 23rd, 2014, 05:03 PM
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Winch Power Cable 1/0

Hey just wondering if anyone has any wiring for the winch power and ground in a Defender. The cables I have for my winch do not reach the battery box - I need 12.5ft. And can not use my winch until I hook the power up - just ask Justin

I know I can buy it from the local welding shop, or ebay or Amazon - but thought i would ask here first.
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  #2  
Old September 23rd, 2014, 05:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonesy View Post
Hey just wondering if anyone has any wiring for the winch power and ground in a Defender. The cables I have for my winch do not reach the battery box - I need 12.5ft. And can not use my winch until I hook the power up - just ask Justin I know I can buy it from the local welding shop, or ebay or Amazon - but thought i would ask here first.
Craig, if you are willing to use a block or quick disconnect I think I have 6 to 8 ft left of 1/0 ( each red and black ) from mine ( new ) Yours gratis of course
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Old September 23rd, 2014, 05:50 PM
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I got lugs and adhesive lined shrink tube (both colors, heavy mil spec)
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Old September 23rd, 2014, 05:57 PM
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Old September 23rd, 2014, 05:59 PM
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Just ground the winch to the body.. You only need the red cable..your local auto parts store have premade ground cables.. I have loads of the red but it's so heavy it costs just as much to ship...otherwise you would be welcome to it...buuuuuudddddyyyyyy...
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Old September 23rd, 2014, 08:17 PM
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warn cautions against grounding to the chassis saying it effects performance and motor life.

I have been running the positive to the winch through a "conduit" of heater hose. Pendy told me about the trick and I have been doing it ever since. Let a stick or rock find your cable and nick the insulation and you will start welding .
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Old September 23rd, 2014, 08:20 PM
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I've heard that before but I fail to see how a battery cable could possibly carry any more current than a good solid steel chassis..providing of course that the grounding points are good.. After all, isn't the whole vehicle including the starter alternator etc grounded through the chassis..frame..??
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Old September 23rd, 2014, 08:28 PM
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A multi stranded copper cable of adequate gauge offers a far superior pathway for current flow, both positive and negative.
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Old September 23rd, 2014, 08:33 PM
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The copper offers less resistance...for flow. Plus (no pun intended) one less thing dumping onto the frame...unless cathodic protection is your end game.
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Old September 23rd, 2014, 08:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Douglas View Post
warn cautions against grounding to the chassis saying it effects performance and motor life.

I have been running the positive to the winch through a "conduit" of heater hose. Pendy told me about the trick and I have been doing it ever since. Let a stick or rock find your cable on nick the insulation and you will start welding .
Where are you grounding? The battery?

I have 2 feet of 1/0 positive, 1.5 foot of ground to the chassis and it's not working. Winch cuts out under load and is underpowered for rating.
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Old September 23rd, 2014, 09:04 PM
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Yep Warn recommends home runs for both pos and neg to battery terminals for best performance and motor life.
Its a lot of expensive wire on a defender but necessary.
I have tried the ground to the chassis shite and used the bumper bolts. Damn things were throwing sparks because the ground was insufficient.
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Old September 23rd, 2014, 09:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z.G View Post
Where are you grounding? The battery?

I have 2 feet of 1/0 positive, 1.5 foot of ground to the chassis and it's not working. Winch cuts out under load and is underpowered for rating.
What kind of POS winch are you running?
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Old September 23rd, 2014, 10:10 PM
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Zak's truck is so badass he don't need no stinking winch!
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Old September 23rd, 2014, 10:14 PM
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Yeah thanks guys...I am sold on the fact I need to do black and red to the battery. Just need to find a decent source for approx 12.5ft of it. Looks like eBay is best so far
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Old September 23rd, 2014, 10:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Daddymow View Post
Zak's truck is so badass he don't need no stinking winch!
I heard he installed the after market On Star...
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Old September 23rd, 2014, 11:09 PM
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And who is running complete uninterrupted battery cables from the winch to the battery anyway.. Isnt the limiting factor of your best case scenario maximum sustained amperage draw going to be limited by the battery cutoff or isolator switch amperage load capacity??.. Or of the connector plug like an Anderson connector system..
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Old September 23rd, 2014, 11:58 PM
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I got mine @ welding supply.com or someplace like that. It was the best price I could find for welding cable. I like welding cable since it is more flexible than battery cable. I wasn't sure if the insulation was as well suited to life in an engine bay so I ran the cables inside some 7/8" heater hose.

Shayne, yes, but your the switch and disconnect ratings are sometimes the load under which you can make or break the connection without it welding itself. They will often happily pass quite a bit more once the connection is made. Check the specs on whatever you're using. Bottom line, smaller cable will cause voltage drop on longer runs, and that will lead to even higher amperages, and quicker overheating of the motor, reduced pulling power, etc.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonesy View Post
Yeah thanks guys...I am sold on the fact I need to do black and red to the battery. Just need to find a decent source for approx 12.5ft of it. Looks like eBay is best so far
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  #18  
Old September 24th, 2014, 12:12 AM
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Totally agree on the amperage of thick vs thin.. Electricity is always compared to water.. Voltage is flow.. Amps is pressure etc etc.. My point is.. That if you wire a winch as recommended there is supposed to be a safety disconnect in the case of the relay contacts sticking closed.. I have seen this happen on a heavy pull and thankfully there was a disconnect available to cut the current.. That disconnect is like a connector in a water pipe..the size of the connector is going to be your limiting factor in your current draw...I'm not talking momentary, I'm talking extended length pulls.. Most connectors or switches in use cannot carry the loads needed to match the maximum current draw capabilities of a 1 gauge wire..therefore your switch is the limiting factor of available amperage..
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Old September 24th, 2014, 12:37 AM
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Glad you agree, hard to argue with laws of nature...

Mine is hard wired in. One of these days I'll put in a disconnect. If your disconnect can't carry the load current of the device (not the wire) than there isn't much point in having it. Prayer would be more useful at the point where that becomes critical. Extended pulls, like the ones where you flat out ignore the (already compromised) duty cycle of your equipment because you're in such a hurry to go another 10 feet?

I suggest investing in a good disconnect that can handle the load. Or, just relax and have a lukewarm VB while you wait for things to cool off.

Here's a few...though for the price you can buy a couple slabs of that marsupial piss you call beer.
http://www.waytekwire.com/products/1...nt-Rating=500A

Oh, and 1 gauge is too small for the length needed in a defender. Get bigger cable and your equipment will thank you for it. I use 1/0, that is the minimum size IMO

Quote:
Originally Posted by the rover shop View Post
Totally agree on the amperage of thick vs thin.. Electricity is always compared to water.. Voltage is flow.. Amps is pressure etc etc.. My point is.. That if you wire a winch as recommended there is supposed to be a safety disconnect in the case of the relay contacts sticking closed.. I have seen this happen on a heavy pull and thankfully there was a disconnect available to cut the current.. That disconnect is like a connector in a water pipe..the size of the connector is going to be your limiting factor in your current draw...I'm not talking momentary, I'm talking extended length pulls.. Most connectors or switches in use cannot carry the loads needed to match the maximum current draw capabilities of a 1 gauge wire..therefore your switch is the limiting factor of available amperage..
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  #20  
Old September 24th, 2014, 12:46 AM
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I run a husky superwinch... Their duty cycle is 24 hours...

------ Follow up post added September 24th, 2014 12:49 AM ------

And those load ratings are momentary loads.. Not sure on the time period for momentary tests.. But I'm sure someone will chime in.. I thnk the 500a ones I've seen are 500 a momentary and 300 extended..
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