wanted: rear safari door Rear Window Mesh Guard Kit - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old May 8th, 2014, 09:25 PM
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mark kellgren
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wanted: rear safari door Rear Window Mesh Guard Kit

going to get one soon. Before I order from UK, anyone have one here that can save me some dough? Must be interior.

just like these:
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  #2  
Old May 9th, 2014, 12:49 AM
isherbisher
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joe
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Glass shop should be able to make them; since they are flat glass. Can choose the safety or windshield glass. I have had a couple of custom side and windshields made. If I rennet correctly my unimog windshield was only 60 bucks.
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  #3  
Old May 9th, 2014, 06:53 AM
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mark kellgren
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Quote:
Originally Posted by isherbisher View Post
Glass shop should be able to make them; since they are flat glass. Can choose the safety or windshield glass. I have had a couple of custom side and windshields made. If I rennet correctly my unimog windshield was only 60 bucks.
What? I'm not talking about the glass. I'm referring to the metal mesh guards that protect the glass.
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  #4  
Old May 9th, 2014, 07:34 AM
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Ben Goodwin
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I have been looking for a full set of the exterior style myself. I saw one set of sides for sale at cradocks but it was not really any type of deal.

If I had to do the interior style, I was thinking of just buying a sheet of fancy expanded steel then putting it inside the rubber with the glass and sealing the hell out of it. It would mainly be a deterrent. It's not going to protect the glass unless it's on the outside, just tell would-be vandals to move on.
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  #5  
Old May 9th, 2014, 07:48 AM
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mark kellgren
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My intent for window guards in rear area is to protect glass from load shifting damage. security is a secondary concern.
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  #6  
Old May 9th, 2014, 09:57 AM
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Ben Goodwin
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Well then you might try going to a metal place and finding a nice expanded steel pattern. Doing it that way has the added bonus of requiring no drilling!
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  #7  
Old May 9th, 2014, 10:12 AM
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mark kellgren
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Originally Posted by RockShow View Post
Well then you might try going to a metal place and finding a nice expanded steel pattern. Doing it that way has the added bonus of requiring no drilling!
how would you fasten that to the interior safar door frame without drilling?
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  #8  
Old May 9th, 2014, 10:40 AM
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Victor
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PM me if interested in two rear side windows and back left window for D110
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  #9  
Old May 9th, 2014, 11:30 AM
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mark kellgren
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thanks but was looking for rear safari door window
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  #10  
Old May 9th, 2014, 12:26 PM
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Ben Goodwin
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You just put it up against the glass and then put the trim pieces overtop of it and screw them down to hold it in place. You would have to use a flat type of grate.
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  #11  
Old May 9th, 2014, 07:28 PM
cbfritz_03
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Overlander View Post
how would you fasten that to the interior safar door frame without drilling?

Are the originals or OEMs installed w/o drilling.. How are they installed?.. The plate or track to hold the grate in place would have to be welded if not screwed I would think... maybe a spring loaded latch/bar.
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  #12  
Old May 9th, 2014, 08:30 PM
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mark kellgren
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my plan is rivnuts!
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  #13  
Old May 9th, 2014, 08:34 PM
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I just did the google search... those are neat. I'd like to see the truck!
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  #14  
Old May 9th, 2014, 09:07 PM
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Ben Goodwin
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I am saying you take the metal molding off that holds the glass in place on the door. Then you put the flat expanded steel grating up against the glass put a little sealant around the edge then place the metal trim molding back on and use slightly longer screws or rivets back into the existing holes to tighten it down onto the grating and the glass.

Having said all this I will say that I don't know if my ROW door is the same as a NAS door. My door has 4 aluminum pieces of molded trim that screw into the door frame to hold the glass against the lip of the window frame.

For the guy that just googled riv nuts, make sure you take a 3/16s or so piece of angle iron with the same size hole in it to tighten down over the riv nut when u are installing it. It keeps the riv nut from spinning in the hole or crushing unevenly. I Learned the hard way how hard it is to get a half crushed riv nut out of the hole when it spins free. The sills on my disco look like Swiss cheese.
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  #15  
Old May 9th, 2014, 09:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RockShow View Post
I am saying you take the metal molding off that holds the glass in place on the door. Then you put the flat expanded steel grating up against the glass put a little sealant around the edge then place the metal trim molding back on and use slightly longer screws or rivets back into the existing holes to tighten it down onto the grating and the glass.

Having said all this I will say that I don't know if my ROW door is the same as a NAS door. My door has 4 aluminum pieces of molded trim that screw into the door frame to hold the glass against the lip of the window frame.

For the guy that just googled riv nuts, make sure you take a 3/16s or so piece of angle iron with the same size hole in it to tighten down over the riv nut when u are installing it. It keeps the riv nut from spinning in the hole or crushing unevenly. I Learned the hard way how hard it is to get a half crushed riv nut out of the hole when it spins free. The sills on my disco look like Swiss cheese.

Hey Ben - Carmen is a girls name. I'm 100% chica lol.. that's me wearing the wrong skirt for too windy a day over in defender sightings..anyway I had never heard of riv nuts before...so I googled. I have no immediate use for them but I always like to learn something new ..different products and their applications. I might need those someday.
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  #16  
Old May 9th, 2014, 09:36 PM
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mark kellgren
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I want the mesh to have some space between the glass and it so it can absorb impact from shifting load. with my overland setup cargo sits now at glass level.
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  #17  
Old May 10th, 2014, 08:01 AM
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Ben Goodwin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cbfritz_03 View Post
Hey Ben - Carmen is a girls name. I'm 100% chica lol.. that's me wearing the wrong skirt for too windy a day over in defender sightings..anyway I had never heard of riv nuts before...so I googled. I have no immediate use for them but I always like to learn something new ..different products and their applications. I might need those someday.
My apologies! I use my iPhone so all I see is cbfritiz. And based on every girl that has ever been stranded by one of my rovers with me, I work under the hypothesis that "women hate land rovers".

As for my comment, I was not being condescending at all. I had never heard of a riv nut or nutsert until I tried to take off the Rovertym sliders on my disco and repaint them. Using a piece of angle iron or a riv-nut tool saves a lot of frustration! These seem cool but I have never tried one http://www.rivetnuttool.com.

You will find a million uses for them. I just used them to fit a NAS cage tub support to my ROW chassis.
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  #18  
Old May 10th, 2014, 08:18 AM
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Ben Goodwin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Overlander View Post
I want the mesh to have some space between the glass and it so it can absorb impact from shifting load. with my overland setup cargo sits now at glass level.
Having a gap would be optimal, I agree. This was just a cheap simple way I had thought of to do them. You are right, Setting riv nuts into the outer face of the inside frame and bolting the grating would probably work better. You would just have to cut out for the wiper motor. Might want to put a strip of foam tape or ribbon calk between the grating and the door frame to keep it from rattling and digging into the door frame from vibration.

My first task is going to be to figure out a good way to cut my rear door in half and have it look somewhat professional. I want to be able to take the top part off the door in the summer but still use my tire carrier.
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  #19  
Old May 10th, 2014, 09:44 AM
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Jason England
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RockShow View Post
Having a gap would be optimal, I agree. This was just a cheap simple way I had thought of to do them. You are right, Setting riv nuts into the outer face of the inside frame and bolting the grating would probably work better. You would just have to cut out for the wiper motor. Might want to put a strip of foam tape or ribbon calk between the grating and the door frame to keep it from rattling and digging into the door frame from vibration. My first task is going to be to figure out a good way to cut my rear door in half and have it look somewhat professional. I want to be able to take the top part off the door in the summer but still use my tire carrier.
Buy an old rear door and cut that. Then you don't have to worry about having to figure out a joining mechanism.
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  #20  
Old May 10th, 2014, 12:35 PM
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Ben Goodwin
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I am toying with buying a tailgate and rigging to the tire carrier but I don't want to have to switch out the sub and wiring each season.

My first thought was POE door but not looking to spend that much cash.
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