Wanted: Rear Left Side Capping - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old March 29th, 2011, 09:12 PM
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Dr. Gonzo
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Wanted: Rear Left Side Capping

Hi - looking for just the rear capping piece that's to the left of the back door. Doesn't have to be galvanized, red would be nice, but if not, it will become red. Feeling cheap, answer accordingly

Also does the back door have capping on it? I know it's a folded piece of metal, but I'm not sure how removable it is. If you have that too, great.

Thanks,

Jerod
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  #2  
Old March 30th, 2011, 01:43 AM
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It is removable, but you need to drill out a million rivets and take out all the hardware. I took two of them and had them galvanized. The warped badly, but I was able to make them presentable. Pictures are around somewhere.

One side of the rear cappings is readily available and cheap, the other is NLA although safariresto does remake them. I forget which is which, but I am sure a search will reveal the answer.

If they are not rusted through, a quick sandblast and galvanizing (or painting front and back) will make them look presentable and stop the rust issues.
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  #3  
Old March 30th, 2011, 10:52 AM
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Dr. Gonzo
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Thanks Ron - the one of the left is rusted through, I've done a 'less than Ron-good' job of quickie bondo so there aren't any sharp edges, but it needs to be replaced. It seems like a small piece of metal....

As for the back door capping, maybe Josh can find the pictures for me. It does look like a lot of rivets. Mine's not rusted through, but it's pitted. I went down to white metal trying to smooth it out, and still have a lot of pits. Would be nice to replace both 'in situ'
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  #4  
Old March 30th, 2011, 11:08 AM
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I think you will have an easier time finding a whole door than just the inside of the shell. There are pics of rons door on his yellow truck show it isn't really capping but the whole door is a piece of steel with an outside aluminum skin.
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  #5  
Old March 30th, 2011, 11:32 AM
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Dr. Gonzo
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Crap - I see what you mean Barry. I thought it was just capping on the back door. Oh well, it's not bad, maybe something I can take to a body shop to be sanded clean and repainted. Or I can do nothing because it doesn't look that bad.

Still would like the left rear capping piece.
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  #6  
Old March 30th, 2011, 12:00 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Do you have a picture of the existing damage? I can look through my stash to see what I have, but iirc the end piece is welded to the side piece. Are you planning on removing the side and getting the end piece welded on? If so, I might be able to give you enough material to fix the existing issue.
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  #7  
Old March 30th, 2011, 12:10 PM
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Charles - you have PM
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  #8  
Old March 30th, 2011, 12:31 PM
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Charles Galpin
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That area is simple L shaped channel and can easily be replicated if your goal is to patch (and all you might need is a piece of flat sheet welded in - hard to tell from your picture what is needed. If you just want some material to use as a patch, this might be good enough for you, although I'd suggest getting a local welder to look and tell you - they might prefer to start with some fresh new steel.
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  #9  
Old March 30th, 2011, 12:37 PM
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Thanks Charles - I don't think that's going to work. I'd like a fresh piece to run that length across the back. I'd rather not remove the cage to do it, but I think I need clean metal for that whole stretch to the door threshold.
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  #10  
Old March 30th, 2011, 12:39 PM
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I don't think you will be able to patch it in place without damaging the aluminum.
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  #11  
Old March 30th, 2011, 04:20 PM
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So do you need the capping on the rear door or the one that attaches to the body?

I have some that attach to the body both galvanized and non
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  #12  
Old March 30th, 2011, 04:22 PM
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He wants the piece I showed, but in better condition afaikt.
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  #13  
Old March 30th, 2011, 04:24 PM
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I need a piece to splice in as noted in the attached picture. You can kind of see where the metal is chewed up on the inside closest to the door.
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  #14  
Old March 30th, 2011, 04:31 PM
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Have some at home let me check tonight and I will post what I have.

Not going to be "cheap" but I will try to be fair
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  #15  
Old March 30th, 2011, 04:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dave_lucas View Post
Have some at home let me check tonight and I will post what I have.

Not going to be "cheap" but I will try to be fair
Shoot me a PM when you check out the stash.

Thanks!
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  #16  
Old March 30th, 2011, 04:50 PM
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Honestly, save your pennies for a pair of galvanized cappings and do it right down the road. As it sits it is not bad now. The ones on my red truck are pretty nice, if you are looking to save some pennies, find me a galvanized set and I will sell my red set cheap.

Ron
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  #17  
Old March 30th, 2011, 05:09 PM
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I'd let a body/detail shop give it some tlc and be done with it. Down the road you can pull the cage and do it right.
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  #18  
Old March 30th, 2011, 05:12 PM
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Jeez, you don't want to remove the cage? that's like the easiest thing in the whole world, ever. Taking off the cage takes even less time than drilling out the rivets on the entire capping thing. Just buy new cappings and call it done, either that or wait and take no action now. No point in doing a half ass one-hour job for 50 bucks when a correct job costs 150 and takes 1.5 hours...
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  #19  
Old March 30th, 2011, 05:21 PM
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Originally Posted by JimC View Post
Jeez, you don't want to remove the cage? that's like the easiest thing in the whole world, ever. Taking off the cage takes even less time than drilling out the rivets on the entire capping thing. Just buy new cappings and call it done, either that or wait and take no action now. No point in doing a half ass one-hour job for 50 bucks when a correct job costs 150 and takes 1.5 hours...
If your truck was from South Carolina. Drilling out harded M10 torx head bolts = not fun. It took me a bit longer than 1.5 hours to pull the cage and drill out all the rivets on chicky and I had an impact gun with the proper torx bit and am quick with a drill. Also, on 1994 with the fiberglass top (as his had) he has to drill out all those rivnuts too.
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  #20  
Old March 30th, 2011, 07:33 PM
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Here is what I have

1 set of galvanized cappings. Started out as rust free NAS, I had them blasted & galvanized.

RH capping is in perfect condition

LH capping has a small bend that knocked off the galvy on the corner. A few mins with a hammer and it would be nice and straight again but missing galvy in the area that was dented. If you are going to paint it then I suppose it would not matter.

I was planning to fix the corner and have it galvanized again but if it will work for you as is them maybe we can work something out

Pics of LH capping

Also have a set of NAS cappings that are in decent shape but could use some cleanup and paint.

PM me if they might work for you

FWIW you might be able to remove yours and have it repaired dependant on the rust..
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