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  #21  
Old October 11th, 2014, 12:49 PM
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Bill Adams
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Matt, we at RRC Central have been trying to run down the actual source of the water ingress on the footwells for quite some time. Prime suspect #1 is a lap joint that is spot welded and seam sealed right under the footwell pad. This joint is in direct contact with the under carpet pad. The under carpet pad wicks up moisture like a sponge mainly because, well, it's made out of sponge!
It is bonded to a rubber noise barrier, so the moisture has no way to evaporate and stays in the mat. I have seen these mats literally soaking wet when the carpet and all is perfectly dry.
The front mat is one piece spanning from door to door. It actually is under the heater box and is glued to the center hump. All the wiring harnesses run over top of it. Point is, it doesn't come out easily.
Anyway inspect the area under the footwells and behind the mud flap mount to see if there's any break in the undercoating. That is Bad Juju signal #1.
Another suspected area of leaking is the windshield gasket. Water gets under the windshield gasket and starts to rust the metal frame. You can't see it because it's hidden. There's another spot welded lap joint where the A pillar meets the bulkhead, forming the lower edge of the windshield frame and this area rusts, letting water in. This leaks down the outer edge where the door pillar and bulkhead meet (yes another spot welded lap joint) seeps into that crease and then more rust forms. You see where all this is going, yes?
RRCs, and I guess all Rovers, were only painted well where you could see. All other areas were lucky to get a small amount of overspray to hide the primer.
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1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"
1968 2A 88

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  #22  
Old October 11th, 2014, 01:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
Matt, we at RRC Central have been trying to run down the actual source of the water ingress on the footwells for quite some time. Prime suspect #1 is a lap joint that is spot welded and seam sealed right under the footwell pad. This joint is in direct contact with the under carpet pad. The under carpet pad wicks up moisture like a sponge mainly because, well, it's made out of sponge! It is bonded to a rubber noise barrier, so the moisture has no way to evaporate and stays in the mat. I have seen these mats literally soaking wet when the carpet and all is perfectly dry. The front mat is one piece spanning from door to door. It actually is under the heater box and is glued to the center hump. All the wiring harnesses run over top of it. Point is, it doesn't come out easily. Anyway inspect the area under the footwells and behind the mud flap mount to see if there's any break in the undercoating. That is Bad Juju signal #1. Another suspected area of leaking is the windshield gasket. Water gets under the windshield gasket and starts to rust the metal frame. You can't see it because it's hidden. There's another spot welded lap joint where the A pillar meets the bulkhead, forming the lower edge of the windshield frame and this area rusts, letting water in. This leaks down the outer edge where the door pillar and bulkhead meet (yes another spot welded lap joint) seeps into that crease and then more rust forms. You see where all this is going, yes? RRCs, and I guess all Rovers, were only painted well where you could see. All other areas were lucky to get a small amount of overspray to hide the primer.
Thanks this is very helpful Bill. I would love to get to the point of being able to check these areas out on a classic. The issue has been getting people to agree to sell me the ones I'm interested in. I swear some folks would rather a decent car sit and rot then sell it, Knowing damn well they aren't going to do shit with it. Has to be the most frustrating thing for a car enthusiast.
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  #23  
Old October 19th, 2014, 04:09 PM
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BUMP.
Who would have thought the selection of fair to good condition RRC's for sale would be so limited in the Virginia area.
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  #24  
Old October 19th, 2014, 05:54 PM
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Justin
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theres some nice stuff out here in socal that sell super cheap. for me it would be worth it to get the perfect rust free body and pay 1200-1500 bucks to ship it. theses a few around here that are nice for sale. i can help you if your interested. look on the craigslist here. I know about some of them that are listed.
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  #25  
Old October 19th, 2014, 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Jwillia View Post
theres some nice stuff out here in socal that sell super cheap. for me it would be worth it to get the perfect rust free body and pay 1200-1500 bucks to ship it. theses a few around here that are nice for sale. i can help you if your interested. look on the craigslist here. I know about some of them that are listed.
I appreciate the offer and will let you know. I've looked at a few out that way online but I was trying to sort out any viable options around here first. It's likely that if I have no luck I'll be looking out that way harder.
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  #26  
Old October 19th, 2014, 05:58 PM
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OK I can put u in touch with some ppl lemme know.
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  #27  
Old October 19th, 2014, 07:37 PM
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Bill Adams
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If you want a good body, stop looking locally. Tain't none. Buy from Texas, Arizona, Cali, etc and ship or drive it back home.
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1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"
1968 2A 88

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  #28  
Old October 19th, 2014, 09:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
If you want a good body, stop looking locally. Tain't none. Buy from Texas, Arizona, Cali, etc and ship or drive it back home.
Starting to see that. Was looking at a RR, put my hand under the front foot well underneath the truck and stuck my finger through a random hole and felt the nice damp carpet padding above. Figured it was time to split on that one.
I would consider a west coast truck if I didn't have to pay 1500 for transport.
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  #29  
Old October 19th, 2014, 09:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WeBeCinYa View Post
Starting to see that. Was looking at a RR, put my hand under the front foot well underneath the truck and stuck my finger through a random hole and felt the nice damp carpet padding above. Figured it was time to split on that one. I would consider a west coast truck if I didn't have to pay 1500 for transport.
Transport should be inside $900 for coast to coast.
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  #30  
Old October 19th, 2014, 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by lordhelemt View Post
Transport should be inside $900 for coast to coast.
I need some better connections then, as I paid 1500 from Denver to VA, was enclosed though.
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  #31  
Old October 19th, 2014, 09:41 PM
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How bad do you want a good truck? I found a 1 owner SWB Beluga Black out of Portland but it wasn't cheap. He was crazy abut maintenance and I drove it home in one day. Rust free, beautiful black paint, the interior is good (not great), and it had a few needs. But overall I am pleased. They can be found...
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  #32  
Old October 19th, 2014, 10:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xplorUtah View Post
How bad do you want a good truck? I found a 1 owner SWB Beluga Black out of Portland but it wasn't cheap. He was crazy abut maintenance and I drove it home in one day. Rust free, beautiful black paint, the interior is good (not great), and it had a few needs. But overall I am pleased. They can be found...
Your SWB looks excellent. I'd like to find a solid body but be at that point way down the road.
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  #34  
Old October 23rd, 2014, 10:36 AM
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Thanks for these leads, I went after the truck in Atlanta, but it sold before I could get Jonesy out there to look at it. Also asked about a few others above but no solid luck yet.
Still actively looking...Considering LWB now too, and would rather have 1995 if I had the choice.
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  #35  
Old October 23rd, 2014, 11:30 AM
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Just curious why you want a SWB?

I've had a number of LWB and my recent project is a SWB that I really like. Wife prefers LWB so I may keep looking for the perfect LWB. For me the SWB looks much better than a LWB, especially with stock EAS which I prefer.
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  #36  
Old October 23rd, 2014, 11:37 AM
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Bill Adams
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I can't understand why people pull the buttery smooth air suspension out for coils. Maybe ten years ago there was sufficient cause, as there was no way to repair except to take it to the stealership. Now you have access to the cracking software that lets you reset the system. That, and the parts are around for literally pennies.
If you've not experienced a LWB with EAS, you don't know what you're missing.
I admit that I have had it go flat on me for no apparent reason. Never has it failed so that I wasn't able to pump it back up manually in a few minutes and drive on.

Quote:
They can be found...
Roger that. My Texas one was a good find
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1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"
1968 2A 88

All my troubles are Rover
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  #37  
Old October 23rd, 2014, 11:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brody View Post
Just curious why you want a SWB? I've had a number of LWB and my recent project is a SWB that I really like. Wife prefers LWB so I may keep looking for the perfect LWB. For me the SWB looks much better than a LWB, especially with stock EAS which I prefer.
Like you I think the SWB looks better, I guess to me the SWB seems sportier. LWB probably makes more sense now though since I'm going to have two car seats in the rear if the family + dog takes a trip.
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  #38  
Old October 23rd, 2014, 11:51 AM
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The back seat of an SWB has little leg room if you are tall and have the front seat all the way back. This is why I always had LWBs. ~9in more leg room which is huge.
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  #39  
Old October 23rd, 2014, 12:06 PM
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Bill Adams
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Hello, Southwest? Need a one way ticket to Dallas, Texas...
http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/cto/4695873649.html

Or Phoenix to buy this nice exposed hinge runner:
http://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/cto/4708343400.html

And a parts truck as long as I'm there:
http://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/cto/4708343400.html

And another:
http://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/cto/4682457127.html

And I'll get this trail beater as long as I'm picking up trucks:
http://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/cto/4690482317.html

But I'll probably just end up with this one anyway:
http://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/cto/4671402339.html
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1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"
1968 2A 88

All my troubles are Rover
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  #40  
Old October 23rd, 2014, 12:21 PM
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Samdford Wallace
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
The back seat of an SWB has little leg room if you are tall and have the front seat all the way back. This is why I always had LWBs. ~9in more leg room which is huge.
One more thing to consider is that SWB are much more rare. According to this poster, only around 250 95 SWB's were made:

http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/8-r...tml#post126389

The SWB was also only manufactured in 1995 vs the 1995 LWB which was made 93-95. It makes sense that with the addition of the P38 in 1995, you'd buy it vs the old SWB, UNLESS you wanted more leg room you'd get the LWB. So SWB's weren't flying off the shelf, hence the low production.

For me the SWB was featured in the Louve, and it was the only rover badged a "Classic", and it looks proper to my eye, so I'm partial now to the SWB. Just gotta convince the wife (we also have 2 in car seats).
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