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  #21  
Old July 17th, 2012, 10:55 AM
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Yep. That really nice one in Asheville has 185k miles on it. I get that a 20 year old truck will have that many miles, but they are all running on the stock Rover V-8 that is way past its prime.
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  #22  
Old July 18th, 2012, 01:03 PM
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Anyone Know This RRC?

Anyone happen to know this RRC? It's owned by a Robert Bacon and is outside Frederick, MD. Going to look at it on Saturday. Any RRC experts have any advice on what to look for?

Owner states:
"The only electrical issue is the rear windshield wiper does not work. It needs an alignment. It clicks on a full left turn. Full right has zero rub/click. I was planning on getting 32" tires after the suspension upgrade which I never got around too. The rear axel housing was replaced. Everything was good when I had the gearing changed and the lockers installed. Zero axel problems. The check engine light is on which I have had diagnosed. They can't find any faults. I have the receipts. To be honest I don't know I single RRC owner that doesn't have that light on. Most people simple pull the bulb out. Rust for this model is very good all around. It spent the first 60k miles of its life in AZ"

It also needs an ABS accumulator.

From the CL ad:

Garage kept, no leaks, really...no leaks.
1994 Range Rover County by Land Rover
3.9L V8
full time 4X4
125,000miles
new******
2" Terra Firma +2 suspension
Front Shock Turrents
Rovertracks Steering damper relocation kit
Terra Firma Damper
Front and Rear Detroit True tracs
4:10 Gears
ARB Front Bumper
Fuel Pump
Oil Filter/pump gasket
Power Steering Pump and Lines
Oil Pan gasket
Transmission Oil Cooler
Right Swivel Pin Assembly
Rear Axl housing
ABS sensors
rear driveshaft u joint
rear a frame ball joint
rear brake lines.
Great interior
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  #23  
Old July 18th, 2012, 01:33 PM
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looks good...hopefully it works out!
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  #24  
Old July 18th, 2012, 01:40 PM
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Looks decent enough, but all the way at the top of your budget. The winch bumper with no winch kills it for me.
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  #25  
Old July 18th, 2012, 01:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rijosho View Post
Looks decent enough, but all the way at the top of your budget.
Who says I'm paying $5k for it? No way it's worth that. We'll see what Ben Franklin says about it when I show up there.

------ Follow up post added July 18th, 2012 01:55 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by rijosho View Post
The winch bumper with no winch kills it for me.
You can still buy winches you know.
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  #26  
Old July 18th, 2012, 02:13 PM
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Honestly, mechanicals are easy. It's the rust you want to really pay attention to. Lift up the carpet in the cargo area, inspect the rear corners, rear gate, upper and lower, strikers at the rear doors. Lift the carpet at drivers/pass side footwells. Look up high too, not just the floor area. Rocker/sill area, bottom of the doors. Check the rubber gasket around the windows in the cargo area. ,.... It's NLA.
I have a bunch more stuff, PM your number if you want to talk.
Take your time and poke around. It's RARE to find a truly clean example

Good Luck
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  #27  
Old July 18th, 2012, 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Wolf Fabrication View Post
You can still buy winches you know.
Yeah, but WE'LL have to find it for you.
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  #28  
Old July 18th, 2012, 02:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rijosho View Post
Yeah, but WE'LL have to find it for you.
Well, I will employ your minion services if I seek such a device.

------ Follow up post added July 18th, 2012 02:20 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by EWR View Post
Honestly, mechanicals are easy. It's the rust you want to really pay attention to. Lift up the carpet in the cargo area, inspect the rear corners, rear gate, upper and lower, strikers at the rear doors. Lift the carpet at drivers/pass side footwells. Look up high too, not just the floor area. Rocker/sill area, bottom of the doors. Check the rubber gasket around the windows in the cargo area. ,.... It's NLA.
I have a bunch more stuff, PM your number if you want to talk.
Take your time and poke around. It's RARE to find a truly clean example

Good Luck
Good stuff, cheers. I am focused on a 94 or 95 for knowledge of the mechanical stuff I already have. I was just wondering if RRCs had any specific issues - other than finicky rust as you mentioned.
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  #29  
Old July 18th, 2012, 02:21 PM
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Also, if the SRS light is on, be prepared for a journey to hell trying to turn it off (and it won't pass safety in the Commenwealth with it on. Check for rust under the battery tray, check to see if someone's been into the fuseable links dicking with them as it'll indicate electrical gremlins, footwells, floor boards and sills need to be inspected REALLY well, bulkheads are generally rusty any more as well. Check to see if the handle on the lift gate is still soundly attached (ask me about the time I locked the dogs in the back of my Hunter (with dog guard) because the handle came off in my hands. In the rain. At night. In a hotel parking lot. 100 miles from home. With no tools. Ask when the radiator was last recored/replaced (cause it'll need to be again soon). Make sure all the windows go up and down. And test them 8-10 times, the little circuit board will need fixing sooner or later, best to know now. . .

You've REALLY gotta want a RRC to put up with one.
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  #30  
Old July 18th, 2012, 02:28 PM
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I have my fingers crossed on the rust issue - the guy claims it spent the first 60k miles in AZ....

Where are the fuseable links on these monsters???
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  #31  
Old July 18th, 2012, 02:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Abrooks View Post
Also, if the SRS light is on, be prepared for a journey to hell trying to turn it off (and it won't pass safety in the Commonwealth with it on.
x2

NOVA counties will not even hook up the emissions equipment with a SRS light on. Even if for a non-related engine or emmissions type fault. However, you can "buy" a two year exemption by spending $750 towards fix at an approved shop, even if SRS light remains on after >$750 in repairs. VA's not so subtle way of keeping older OBD-II cars off the road.

Defender bones but with 40x the number of Lucas parts = RRC.
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  #32  
Old July 18th, 2012, 03:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by down_shift View Post
x2

NOVA counties will not even hook up the emissions equipment with a SRS light on. Even if for a non-related engine or emmissions type fault. However, you can "buy" a two year exemption by spending $750 towards fix at an approved shop, even if SRS light remains on after >$750 in repairs. VA's not so subtle way of keeping older OBD-II cars off the road.

Defender bones but with 40x the number of Lucas parts = RRC.
Can't I just pull the bulb out?
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  #33  
Old July 18th, 2012, 03:11 PM
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Can't I just pull the bulb out?
Don't know. Carlos??
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  #34  
Old July 18th, 2012, 03:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Abrooks View Post
Also, if the SRS light is on, be prepared for a journey to hell trying to turn it off (and it won't pass safety in the Commenwealth with it on.
Well at least with a 1994, you don't have to worry about SRS as there were no airbags until '95 IIRC.

I've been looking up some RRCs recently as well, but just for fun - I feel like it would be fun to get one for the trails.

Jon, this one's pretty comparable in terms of color, year, SWB, miles. Over $11k on eBay after 20 bids, though!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1994-...item460591e4bd
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  #35  
Old July 18th, 2012, 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by rijosho View Post
Well at least with a 1994, you don't have to worry about SRS as there were no airbags until '95 IIRC.

I've been looking up some RRCs recently as well, but just for fun - I feel like it would be fun to get one for the trails.

Jon, this one's pretty comparable in terms of color, year, SWB, miles. Over $11k on eBay after 20 bids, though!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1994-...item460591e4bd
I really want the green 1990 Vogue on eBay!
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  #36  
Old July 18th, 2012, 03:25 PM
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Ha I have that open right now!! Did you see the two Arles Blue pics at the bottom of the listing?
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  #37  
Old July 18th, 2012, 03:26 PM
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Quote:
Any RRC experts have any advice on what to look for?
Open the back door, either side, doesn't matter. Look for a rust spot at the inside bottom corner of the dog leg just below the door catch. If here is any hint of bubbling or perforation, the body is toast. If that area is ok, flip the rear seat forward and lift up the carpet corner and the rubber load mat to see the condition of the floor. Again, any rust here is a deal killer.
Rot in the tailgate, upper or lower, is death.
Check the heater blower fan for operation at all the speeds, ditto the wipers. Repairing either of these requires removing the cowl decker panel which is a horrible horrible thing to do.
Sagging headliner of course.
Drive the vehicle to get the engine warm. Check the coolant overflow tank to see if there is any pressure there. If so you have a bad engine.
Range Rover unobtanium includes "county" badged items, wood interior trim, center console parts, soft dash parts, carpet, LWB center rubber foot mats, turn signal lenses, and much of the body panels.
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  #38  
Old July 18th, 2012, 03:34 PM
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I posted a hunter edition up for sale in San Diego that has really no rust. The guy has now replaced the transmission. AC works and the motor leaks but starts up every time. The Hunter has no ABS nor air suspension so it is the perfect classic to start to build it up. Anyway look under misc I think and if not PM me for the link.
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  #39  
Old July 18th, 2012, 03:40 PM
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Ha I have that open right now!! Did you see the two Arles Blue pics at the bottom of the listing?
I did. I'd kill for an Arles Blue RRC, but don't want to pay for it!

------ Follow up post added July 18th, 2012 03:41 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by CDeWan View Post
I posted a hunter edition up for sale in San Diego that has really no rust. The guy has now replaced the transmission. AC works and the motor leaks but starts up every time. The Hunter has no ABS nor air suspension so it is the perfect classic to start to build it up. Anyway look under misc I think and if not PM me for the link.
Thanks, I don't want to ship anything. Looking for a truck closer to home!
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  #40  
Old July 18th, 2012, 03:48 PM
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Bill, I actually found that thermoresistor to not be as bad a job as I anticipated by just taking off the far right plastic louver thing. As for the headliner, it's a 3 hour job including 1.5 of watching glue dry. Don't let that kill the deal. Oh, and the fuseable links are, if I remember correctly, the bundled wires immediatly downstream from the battery.

If you can find a hunter, go for it. Mine had the best juju of any of them (save the getting the dogs trapped bit).
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