Help, front diff is toast... - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old February 27th, 2012, 12:33 PM
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Help, front diff is toast...

Anyone have a lead where I can locate a front diff and axle (think explosion) in Southern California?

1986 D110 LHD ROW with the a 300Tdi running R380 MT...

I'm in a pickle as I am moving in less than three weeks and want to either do teh swap quickly (local parts) or will wait until moved to see what I can source in WA (Puget Sound area)
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  #2  
Old February 27th, 2012, 01:05 PM
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Try Roverdude in Fullerton, I will pm you his info.

Edit, keep in mind you might have AEU2522 CV's so make sure and check your spline count at the axle to cv connection.
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Old February 27th, 2012, 01:48 PM
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If it is a stock 10 spline diff, it is a good time to put something decent in there.
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Old February 28th, 2012, 08:20 AM
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Thanks all! Will be pulling the diff open today/tomorrow to get a better idea of how bad it is in there - just in case the axle is salvageable. Vehicle buildup is intended for long distance road/gravel/off road travel so strong and readily available parts are ideal.

That said I'm still a Rover newbie, so all advice/information is welcome, and I have three questions.
What would be the benefit of a 24-spline?
What would be the source vehicle in the US for a 24-spline axle/diff setup? (model/years or part numbers?)
What would I need to do/get to mount it up on the 110?
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Old February 28th, 2012, 09:26 AM
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That said I'm still a Rover newbie, so all advice/information is welcome, and I have three questions.
What would be the benefit of a 24-spline?
Axle is stronger because the splines aren't cut as deep into the metal.

What would be the source vehicle in the US for a 24-spline axle/diff setup? (model/years or part numbers?)
Post 1993 Range Rover Classic. I think some Disco as well. I don't recall what the external clues are, if any.

What would I need to do/get to mount it up on the 110?
You'll replace the diff and both side's axle shafts. This usually leads to a bunch of other stuff in the "while I'm at it" category. Swivels rebuild, maybe brakes, maybe tie rod ends, prop shaft u joints, maybe a good degunking, regreasing bearings and swivels....it can get quite extensive.

Your cheapest out is a used Range Rover 10 spline diff, some 90wt and a gasket. All that should be less than a Benjamin.
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Old April 2nd, 2012, 04:09 PM
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Alright, back at this issue now that I'm relocated.

Housing is F'd, front diff carrier grenaded and took out the axel housing...

Opportunity knocking for a HD unit.

Best resource for a full replacement front axel housing with diff housing and internals in western Washington? (Closest big city is Tacoma)

Am i right in that i am after a D1 front axel/diff?
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  #7  
Old April 2nd, 2012, 05:19 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Just for continuity, the discussion has continued on

http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...ad.php?t=36823

The reason 24 splines are stronger is increased surface area BTW.
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Old April 2nd, 2012, 05:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mybluett View Post
Alright, back at this issue now that I'm relocated.

Housing is F'd, front diff carrier grenaded and took out the axel housing...

Opportunity knocking for a HD unit.

Best resource for a full replacement front axel housing with diff housing and internals in western Washington? (Closest big city is Tacoma)

Am i right in that i am after a D1 front axel/diff?

My best advice as someone who does lhd conversions. Get a disco 1 or 93 RRC or later setup complete with radius arms, I get them from the local pick and pull yards for less than $200. Just undo your shocks, calipers,tie rod ends, and front drive shaft. Leave the tires on. Undo the two large radius arm nuts. Roll the toasty 10 spline mess out. Switch the tires over to the 24 spline and roll that back into place. I have done this by myself but its much easier with a second person since this stuff is some what heavy. Once the raidius arms are in place and the nuts back on the rest is easy. You will probably want to swap front rotors and repack the bearings on the new hubs. I use a 4" cutoff tool to cut the abs sensor flush off the top of the swivel pin so that the original defender brake line bracket can be used. By doing this upgrade you gain the stronger setup as well as the later/wider radius arms which I think the bushings last longer in.
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