GBR or similar axles for Salisbury axle 110 or regular front diff.. - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old September 26th, 2012, 01:46 PM
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GBR or similar axles for Salisbury axle 110 or regular front diff..

Looking for heavy duty rear Salisbury axles and maybe heavy duty front axles for the regular style front diff.. 24 spline preferred.. Looks like I may be going lockers and don't want the axles to be the weak point..there were a few on here for sale recently but can't get a response from them..also looking for the heavy duty flanges..
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  #2  
Old September 26th, 2012, 01:55 PM
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Just a word of advice.. If you're going to do gears as well it's more cost effective and quiet a bit stronger to get the 30 spline Dana 60 kit from Keith at RT
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Old September 26th, 2012, 02:26 PM
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You should specify if you have disc length axles or drum length axles for the sals as they are different.
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Old September 26th, 2012, 03:52 PM
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IMO, it is better that the axle be the weak point then your locked diff. One is easier to care for on the trail or in the middle o nowhere than the other, but as long as you are matching strengths across the board you'll be fine. Remember to consider wheel size as well. That matters too when matching up total axel strength.

Clay
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Old September 26th, 2012, 03:57 PM
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Ashcroft do them. http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co...ewCat&catId=15

30 spline costs a lot more for not much improvement.
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Old September 26th, 2012, 03:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1of40 View Post
IMO, it is better that the axle be the weak point then your locked diff. One is easier to care for on the trail or in the middle o nowhere than the other, but as long as you are matching strengths across the board you'll be fine. Remember to consider wheel size as well. That matters too when matching up total axel strength.

Clay
On a Salisbury, the axle will still be the weak point. A Dana 60 is a lot stronger than a chromo 24 spline axle.
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Old September 26th, 2012, 04:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
Ashcroft do them. http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co...ewCat&catId=15

30 spline costs a lot more for not much improvement.
This is not true. 35 spline on the other hand....

If you're doing gears D60 gears cost $200 and sals gears cost $600-800


------ Follow up post added September 26th, 2012 03:12 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1of40 View Post
IMO, it is better that the axle be the weak point then your locked diff. One is easier to care for on the trail or in the middle o nowhere than the other, but as long as you are matching strengths across the board you'll be fine. Remember to consider wheel size as well. That matters too when matching up total axel strength.

Clay
haha yea the weak point in the sals/d60 wont mater until you're running over 40" tires and add about 300HP
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Old September 26th, 2012, 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Jake1996d1 View Post
If you're doing gears D60 gears cost $200 and sals gears cost $600-800
What is not true?

30 spline is 15% stronger. You need to machine the spindles, get custom drive flanges, get the custom shafts and mod the 60 diff to fit the Sals center. It is a bunch of extra money over just buying some shafts for a 15% improvement.
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Old September 26th, 2012, 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
What is not true?

30 spline is 15% stronger. You need to machine the spindles, get custom drive flanges, get the custom shafts and mod the 60 diff to fit the Sals center. It is a bunch of extra money over just buying some shafts for a 15% improvement.
Yea but if you're replacing the carrier and gears it is a cheaper route...

Keith quoted me around $500 for the axles/kit - I would guess around same price for HD Sals axles if not cheaper..
Carrier is going to be about the same price but you have more options for lockers with the 60
Gears are cheaper for a D60
Axle = stronger for less money
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Old September 26th, 2012, 04:51 PM
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I'm about 32's and standard 3.54 gears on a 1.4 transfer box.. not looking for extreme rock crawling or anything similar.. this is on my round the world truck so everything from ice and snow to mud and rocks etc etc..so really just looking for heavy duty stuff to lessen the likelihood of breaking something..
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Old September 26th, 2012, 04:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Jake1996d1 View Post
Yea but if you're replacing the carrier and gears it is a cheaper route...

Keith quoted me around $500 for the axles/kit - I would guess around same price for HD Sals axles if not cheaper..
Carrier is going to be about the same price but you have more options for lockers with the 60
Gears are cheaper for a D60
Axle = stronger for less money
Not sure where you get "less money"...
- Drive members. 30 spline will cost more or similar and do not "need" replacing if staying 24 spline.
- Halfshafts. 30 spline will probably cost more as they are custom.
- Diff center will be the same.
- 60 gears are cheaper, but have nothing to do with the choice of shaft size. Putting a 60 gear into a Sals case requires a bunch of mods as the pinions are different.
- You need to add machining cost of the spindles and the diff.
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Old September 26th, 2012, 04:55 PM
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Originally Posted by the rover shop View Post
I'm about 32's and standard 3.54 gears on a 1.4 transfer box.. not looking for extreme rock crawling or anything similar.. this is on my round the world truck so everything from ice and snow to mud and rocks etc etc..so really just looking for heavy duty stuff to lessen the likelihood of breaking something..
Then, yes, just throw in the Ashcroft shafts and drive members. No need to do anything beyond that.
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Old September 26th, 2012, 05:32 PM
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Not sure where you get "less money"...
- Drive members. 30 spline will cost more or similar and do not "need" replacing if staying 24 spline.
- Halfshafts. 30 spline will probably cost more as they are custom.
- Diff center will be the same.
- 60 gears are cheaper, but have nothing to do with the choice of shaft size. Putting a 60 gear into a Sals case requires a bunch of mods as the pinions are different.
- You need to add machining cost of the spindles and the diff.
Around $500 includes machining the stubs, axle shafts that are likely one piece. Do you now understand why I am saying cheaper??? This is why you just buy it all from Keith. Think about it the Toy conversion is $575 for the rear, machined stubs, pinion flange, 1 piece axle and flange longfields, sewer cap, new studs, and everything else you need, which is way more than you need for 30 spliners...

Here's the email I have from Keith in regard to this when I was considering doing this

"Depending on what you want to do with it the caliper bracket and be "freehand" and welded to the housing.
D1 hub's, rotors and calipers. With the 35 spline kit you get the 35 spine stub axles, wheel bearings (hubs need to be machined to fit bigger bearings) seals and shafts for $1200.
We could put 30 spline axles in it for $500.
You can put a Dana 60 (30 or 35 spline) locker right into the sals housing. You can drop a Dana 70 Detroit right into a Salisbury Carrier.
We can put Dana gears into Salisbury's by using a special pinion nose bearing available from Timkin for $50 and we get a pinion flange made for $120

Salisbury carriers have metric screws for the ring gear, Dana 60's inch type, the gears swap with a little creativity at the ring gear bolts."

But since the OP doesnt need this then yes go with some regular HD shafts..
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Old September 26th, 2012, 06:48 PM
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Also trying to retain the "stock Land Rover components look". hence no dana 60 or toyota e-locker mods or ARB etc etc..
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Old September 26th, 2012, 09:33 PM
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You might give Brian (shoefnik) a call. http://www.roamoffroad.com/axles.php

-Jeff
I take it thats Tim Cooper in the S1 ?
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Old September 27th, 2012, 09:34 AM
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I would really be impressed if that was smoking all 4 wheels..)
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Old September 27th, 2012, 11:37 AM
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For what you are doing HD 24 splines from ashcroft or someone else (does L8 still sell ashcroft) and a lunchbox detroit AND REPLACING THE SEAL WITH A D60 RUBBER SEAL will last better than everything else on the truck.

A sals is nearly indestructable. By way of example, my good friend Dom drove his 109 up to the tip of australia and back. Part way into the trip he got stuck in a river. He drove the rest of the trip without having any issues with the sals. When he got the truck back to the US, we drained a gallon of WATER with a few drips of oil in it out of the rear diff. We filled it with 90wt and it was fine. Basically he ran a few thousand miles off road without any gear oil and the axle was fine. Try that with a rover type.

The water ingress and oil egress is why you want the rubber seal. I have never seen a leather one hold on the dozen or so sals I have seen.
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Old September 27th, 2012, 12:16 PM
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Spoke in length to the guy at GBR yesterday, He is out of the rear axles for the salisbury but he says the genuine axles in the rear old salisburys are near on indestructible.. inspect for spline wear and have at it..with the style of locker I am looking at going with if I snap an axle it wont damage the locker like some do and it will still drive the one good wheel..and the front locker will also still pull effectively.. in regards to the front diff I have an older 10 pline with the older style cv joints which he claims is the best one to have.. so I need the 24 spline diff side to 23 spline cv side, he has these axles in stock.. so with my lockers and stock rear axles and his front adaptor axles it looks like I will have a pretty good setup and still be able to have good parts interchange ability and still retain an original external appearance..
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Old September 27th, 2012, 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by the rover shop View Post
Spoke in length to the guy at GBR yesterday, He is out of the rear axles for the salisbury but he says the genuine axles in the rear old salisburys are near on indestructible.....
Oh they break. Much stronger than late model 24 spline shafts, but not that hard to do. I've seen a couple go with fairly light use.
http://www.red90.ca/photos/cache/lan..._w580_h436.jpg
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  #20  
Old September 30th, 2012, 06:37 PM
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They do break, but are much more likely to strip the drive flanges. Carry several spares (drive flanges) or get some one piece axles from Roving Tracks and carry the stock axles for spares. Don't bother putting HD flanges on stock axles (or stock flanges on hd axles)as neither will make you happy for long.
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