Dynamat Xtreme and Dynaliner - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old November 29th, 2013, 11:47 AM
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Dynamat Xtreme and Dynaliner

Anyone have leftovers? Looking for a metric ton...
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  #2  
Old November 29th, 2013, 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by SMac View Post
Anyone have leftovers? Looking for a metric ton...
SAY WHAAAAAAAATTTTT? You have an engine issue if you need a ton of liner.
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  #3  
Old November 29th, 2013, 12:14 PM
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SAY WHAAAAAAAATTTTT? You have an engine issue if you need a ton of liner.


Im planning on mat and lining the tub as I prepare to bolt down the Lock and Fold seats and lining everywhere else in the interior with the mat.

Doing charcoal carpet on the wheel wells over the mat/liner, and Exmoor acoustic loadspace mat on the floor and the 3 piece Exmoor matting kit for the front.

So technically, I only need a metric ton of Dynamat, and not the Dynaliner.
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  #4  
Old November 30th, 2013, 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by SMac View Post


Im planning on mat and lining the tub as I prepare to bolt down the Lock and Fold seats and lining everywhere else in the interior with the mat.

Doing charcoal carpet on the wheel wells over the mat/liner, and Exmoor acoustic loadspace mat on the floor and the 3 piece Exmoor matting kit for the front.

So technically, I only need a metric ton of Dynamat, and not the Dynaliner.
Which exact mat are you using for the tub area post-install of L&F?
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  #5  
Old November 30th, 2013, 07:59 PM
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To clarify, the plan is to put Dynamat Xtreme on every metal surface in the interior. I initially wasnt going to due to the difficulty of removing Dynamat, but the Xtreme stuff is 100% butyl, so it shouldnt be as nasty as tar based crap.

Dynaliner is only for the wheel arches. The loadspace mat Im considering is Exmoor Trim EXT0091, which is the same foam backed rubber as the Exmoor molded acoustic matting kit Im going to put in the front. The EXT0091 is only for the floor, and it should tuck under the rear trim piece nicely.

So at endstate, every surface inside should have Dynamat Xtreme and either Dynaliner or Exmoor Acoustic Matting.
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  #6  
Old November 30th, 2013, 09:56 PM
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You do realize that much more than 20-25% evenly spaced dynamat does no additional sound deadening right?

There are more cost effective and much better ways to sound proof a car.

Not trying to be an ass - just help.
Doug
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  #7  
Old November 30th, 2013, 10:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Roving Beetle View Post
You do realize that much more than 20-25% evenly spaced dynamat does no additional sound deadening right? There are more cost effective and much better ways to sound proof a car. Not trying to be an ass - just help. Doug
Would love to know...never claimed to be an expert on anything but big game hunting and pissing off the wife.

I was under the impression that Dynamat was to control heat and vibrations, and the Dynaliner was for sound attenuation. And seeing that a defender is a heat sink and every panel vibrates like a compactor, I figured more the merrier!
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  #8  
Old November 30th, 2013, 10:58 PM
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This website is incredible. http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/
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  #9  
Old November 30th, 2013, 11:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Roving Beetle View Post
You do realize that much more than 20-25% evenly spaced dynamat does no additional sound deadening right?

There are more cost effective and much better ways to sound proof a car.

Not trying to be an ass - just help.
Doug
Yer not an ass - it would be great to know what people think is the best route for sound deadening in the tub
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  #10  
Old December 1st, 2013, 08:33 AM
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Yes, the link above is one of the best sites to see. Tons of info and real world tests etc.

Covering the entire panels *can* lead to moisture entrapment issues.

Doug
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  #11  
Old December 1st, 2013, 08:59 AM
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Thanks for the link. Gives me plenty to think about on my project. It's certainly interesting to learn that 100% coverage isn't needed.
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  #12  
Old December 1st, 2013, 09:29 AM
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It's been my experience after a dozen hours and maybe $2500.00 if you want quite or even "quieter" you're not getting it in a D90 No matter what you do. Of course there is the illusion....because the more you drive it the worse your hearing becomes!

You can achieve some positive, heat reduction, a little more muffled decibels. At 2800 to 3200 RPM that all goes away...use these (below) my friend and save yourself...(time and money).
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  #13  
Old December 1st, 2013, 10:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Larson View Post
It's been my experience after a dozen hours and maybe $2500.00 if you want quite or even "quieter" you're not getting it in a D90 No matter what you do. Of course there is the illusion....because the more you drive it the worse your hearing becomes!

You can achieve some positive, heat reduction, a little more muffled decibels. At 2800 to 3200 RPM that all goes away...use these (below) my friend and save yourself...(time and money).

What sound attenuation did you do to your truck Bill? After spending the time and the money, what order would you put the changes in for greatest bang for the buck?
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  #14  
Old December 1st, 2013, 11:21 AM
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I dynamated every inch I could get to without removing the dash. I'm not saying I wouldn't do it again but I am saying don't set your expectations too high. It does help but a D90 is a D90. I also installed the full three piece Exmoor cockpit condom.

Danny I also did the bonnet, and although the article you posted (good one by the way) said basically it's overkill I looked at cutting vibration. At this point I don't feel that there is anything else I can do to this truck to lessen the noise. I will most likely get louder when I go with the 5.0 and although not louder with the Borla exhaust it's not quieter...just the tones have changed.

Funny thing...I have 4 pair of those Bose...and no one uses them in the D90...go figure!
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  #15  
Old December 1st, 2013, 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Bill Larson View Post
I dynamated every inch I could get to without removing the dash. I'm not saying I wouldn't do it again but I am saying don't set your expectations too high. It does help but a D90 is a D90. I also installed the full three piece Exmoor cockpit condom.
The problem is that you need to first learn about sound suppression and how to design a system to work well.

Dynamat is a damper. It is only useful for preventing a panel from creating sound. It only does something when placed in the center of flat panels. Curves and edges are a waste of time. Once you have dampened any areas that need it, you need to start installing barriers, that block and absorb sound.
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  #16  
Old December 1st, 2013, 11:49 AM
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Im always a bit skeptical about sites with info that lead you to buying their products. I have a decibel reader so I guess we'll see for sure what if any noise attenuation there is. For now, Im at:



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Thats at around 2600 RPM on BFG AT tires on a SW with a full Magnaflow System.
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  #17  
Old December 1st, 2013, 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
The problem is that you need to first learn about sound suppression and how to design a system to work well. Dynamat is a damper. It is only useful for preventing a panel from creating sound. It only does something when placed in the center of flat panels. Curves and edges are a waste of time. Once you have dampened any areas that need it, you need to start installing barriers, that block and absorb sound.
I thought the foil would also be good for heat attenuation?
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  #18  
Old December 1st, 2013, 12:04 PM
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I thought the foil would also be good for heat attenuation?
Not really. You want thick, light material for insulation. Many of the sound absorbers are OK at insulating.
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