Crankshaft pulley locking tool - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old December 22nd, 2011, 01:13 AM
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Carl Jonsson
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Crankshaft pulley locking tool

Does anyone have a spare Crankshaft pulley locking tool for a 300tdi?
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  #2  
Old December 22nd, 2011, 12:00 PM
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jim pendleton
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I do not have a spare. But if you need to borrow one for a difficult removal. I can help with a loan. Very rare that an impact or breaker bar will not do the work.
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  #3  
Old December 22nd, 2011, 04:43 PM
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Carl Jonsson
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I'm going to try that first but don't I need this tool to hold the pulley still? Can I make do with a strap filter wrench?
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  #4  
Old December 22nd, 2011, 07:01 PM
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loosten the front crank bolt before locking the fly wheel or injection pump., turning the engine over won't hurt anything. I have the tool as well and have never had to use it.
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  #5  
Old December 22nd, 2011, 07:14 PM
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jim pendleton
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manimal View Post
I'm going to try that first but don't I need this tool to hold the pulley still? Can I make do with a strap filter wrench?
No a strap wrench will not hold it. A good impact gun will take the bolt loose. If you want to tighten the bolt back to torque as recomended by the workshop manual, then the holding tool is the best way to do it. I thighten the bolt a different method.

Just tightening the bolt to factory specs is not good enough IMO. The problem in this area of the engine is rust creeping into the parts and wreaking havoc. I clean the threads on the crankshaft well. I wire wheel clean the bolt bare on its threads and the washer area that contacts the pulley. Then I apply a liberal amount of aviation permatex (it is like hylomar) to the backside of the washer I cleaned and the threads of the bolt. Take the bolt and washer in to the pulley until it contacts the pulley that is pushed in all the way on the crankshaft. Try to tighten it at least 120 degrees against the pulley with the impact gun. You can not depend on a torque setting when you are using the permatex sealer. The sealer is keeping the parts tight like locktight and sealing out water to prevent rust. The rust is the real problem here. It will allow the parts to become loose or worse wear the crankshaft against the pulley or timing belt pulley or keyway. So to tighen dry parts leaves the oppurtunity for this to happen.
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  #6  
Old June 17th, 2013, 06:38 PM
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Julien Dalbin
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What thread are the bolts for the locking tool on the V8 pulley ?
I've tried 8 mm, 5/16 coarse and fine, not good so far.
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  #7  
Old June 17th, 2013, 06:41 PM
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A length of angle iron with two holes for two of the pulley bolts works perfectly and costs only a few bux.

PS J, the bolts are 10mm
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Old June 17th, 2013, 06:54 PM
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Julien Dalbin
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I'm turning my own tool on a lathe, will post pics when done.
Are you sure about the 10 mm ?
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  #9  
Old June 17th, 2013, 07:06 PM
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Well take one out and measure it then
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  #10  
Old June 17th, 2013, 07:24 PM
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Had a dozen of these tools manufactured and have sold all but 1 or 2 at my cost $99 + shipping if you want to own one. Have found that I use them more for tightening the crank bolt rather than getting it loose. Most have been easy to get off and often the keyway is worn due to the bolt being loose.
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  #11  
Old June 17th, 2013, 07:32 PM
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Julien Dalbin
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I need it for tightening, pan is on so no wood block trick. I hope I can do the tool for less than 30$.
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  #12  
Old June 17th, 2013, 07:35 PM
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Just missing the size for holding bolts.
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  #13  
Old June 17th, 2013, 07:57 PM
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pretty sure they are M8.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JFD View Post
Just missing the size for holding bolts.
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  #14  
Old June 17th, 2013, 08:20 PM
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Um yup what Dave said. The HEADs are 10mm.
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  #15  
Old June 17th, 2013, 09:08 PM
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Julien Dalbin
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Quote:
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pretty sure they are M8.
I tried and they were jamming. I guess holes are a bit rusty.
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  #16  
Old June 17th, 2013, 09:13 PM
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if they go in too far they push the pulley off the hub
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  #17  
Old June 17th, 2013, 09:21 PM
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Julien Dalbin
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I should have check all those things when the pulley was off. My bad.
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