1997 D90 oil cooling lines - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old May 16th, 2012, 05:53 PM
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Ronnie
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1997 D90 oil cooling lines

Guys, is there an affordable alternative? Who makes the best replacement besides ECR? I think its about time to change. Thx.
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  #2  
Old May 16th, 2012, 06:52 PM
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Scott
1997 D90 ST #1444
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Just take them off and have them rebuilt at a local hydraulics shop, Braided Steel would be best. The 97's aren't as vulnerable as the others.
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  #3  
Old May 16th, 2012, 06:59 PM
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Flanuts or flananuts or someone from NJ was saying a few weeks ago that they bought a kit for half price including the sandwich plate from some place. Do a search you should find it.
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  #4  
Old May 16th, 2012, 09:55 PM
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On the D90, I went the more expensive route (well... Ken took the hit really! ) sandwich plate + braided lines.
On the Disco I got a $40 (or so) "kit" from Ptschram on Disco web. The kit is tubing + right size union/compression fittings. You take your stock lines, saw the pressed fittings, throw out the tubing. Then you place the new fittings, slide the tube on there, screw the tube holders and you're done. Just make sure you replace the rubber tube every 4-5 years and you'll be fine (will cost you ~$10-15 from autozone). I'm pretty sure this setup works on disco and D90 and is probably one of the best price on the long term.
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  #5  
Old May 16th, 2012, 10:37 PM
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  #6  
Old May 16th, 2012, 11:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woldd90 View Post
Just take them off and have them rebuilt at a local hydraulics shop, Braided Steel would be best. The 97's aren't as vulnerable as the others.
This. Took mine to Tipco (on recommendation of Charles) and for $153 had the lines rebuilt with top-of-the-line stainless braided/etc. Oh, and I dropped them at 4pm and had them by 2pm the next day.
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  #7  
Old May 16th, 2012, 11:39 PM
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Ian Gregory
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woldd90 View Post
Just take them off and have them rebuilt at a local hydraulics shop, Braided Steel would be best. The 97's aren't as vulnerable as the others.
This x2. I took mine to a local branch of Pirktek in Phx and had them re-made and modified for an external cooler I was putting in. $120 and 2hrs. Would have been half that if I had the stock ones re-done as the extra cost was for the longer sections of expensive stainless hose and new fittings for the different cooler ends needed for the new configuration.

The guy thought I was crazy spending money for the stainless hose as the 'standard' hose was double walled and would have handled the heat issue from the manifold just fine apparently.
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  #8  
Old May 16th, 2012, 11:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanwind View Post
This. Took mine to Tipco (on recommendation of Charles) and for $153 had the lines rebuilt with top-of-the-line stainless braided/etc. Oh, and I dropped them at 4pm and had them by 2pm the next day.
tipco, do you have the contact info, this seems like a viable option?

Thank you
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  #9  
Old May 17th, 2012, 12:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rd10014 View Post
tipco, do you have the contact info, this seems like a viable option?

Thank you
Looks like that are just VA/MD (I was in VA when I had them rebuilt): http://www.tipcotech.com/

But I'd imagine there must be similar places in NY.
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  #10  
Old May 17th, 2012, 07:47 AM
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The one I was talking about was under $100 - maybe even under $90 as they had a ton of overstock.
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  #11  
Old May 17th, 2012, 08:35 AM
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Paul Koentges
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(old post) : lines performing as new...

’95 D-90: Just replacing mine...cost $39. Took out the lines and had local shop Power Product tech repair. Cut off original hose at the metal/rubber point; used 1/2" high pressure heat resistant rubber hose; installed over the rubber hose is a Silco Blue Pyrotex jacket (heat/flame cover to 500 deg); 1 1/4" JR band crimped clamps…no doubt, much better hose than stock and will not fail due to the manifold heat, even direct contact. High-pressure hose is not needed (65-psi normal oil pressure), however, high temp hose had the benefit of being both. The reason for using the ½” hose is that he could utilize the original crimp in the rigid hose for added security from being pulled apart once clamped. If I were to do it again, I would probably have cut the ridged metal ends off, flared the pipe, so that a smaller hose could be fitted…finished hoses are about ¾” thick but look great, if not too bright/blue. To me, braided lines have little, if any, benefit as the internal hose is not high temp nor does the braided jacket disperse much heat. The various kits being sold have the advantage of relocating the lines farther from the manifold. I will follow up with pictures and review on how well I was able to relocate them farther away from the manifold.
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  #12  
Old May 17th, 2012, 09:23 AM
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Last question, I was told the 1997 lines are different, does anyone here have the size and dimensions? I"m thinking about getting them made. Thanks.
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  #13  
Old May 17th, 2012, 09:30 AM
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Paul Koentges
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I suggest taking in your old lines so they match up...it was helpful for the fabrication as all the fittings were in the correct direction.
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  #14  
Old May 17th, 2012, 09:48 AM
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Once you figure out the parts list, cross reference to here and you'll have a nice set of oil cooler lines for cheap

http://208.109.215.220/files/plumbsp...learance+Items

ECR used to have a parts list on their site. See if they still have it - they had it up for the DIY type of guy.
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  #15  
Old May 17th, 2012, 11:56 AM
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  #16  
Old May 17th, 2012, 11:58 AM
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So I had been meaning to check these on my '93 NAS D110 and just looked at them. They have a tag that says part number ESR-583 and has date of 17.10.02 on it. Is this an upgraded LR part for the oil cooler line issues they had or is this the original version that needs updating.

I plan to order a replacement kit eventually just wondering how soon I maybe need to do that.

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  #17  
Old May 17th, 2012, 12:12 PM
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Andrew, I would do it ASAP...
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  #18  
Old May 17th, 2012, 12:21 PM
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Yup - ordering some today from Eric at Trailhead and truck is in the shop getting paint so will replace before it gets driven again. I was just wondering if the lines there now were updated/upgraded versions from LR as I searched on the part number and didn't see much info other then its a LR part. the '02 date would indicate it was a 'newer' part but not necessarily upgraded - so just curious.

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  #19  
Old May 17th, 2012, 03:51 PM
MonLand
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That's what I installed a few days ago: http://discoweb.org/forums/showpost....7&postcount=92
Again, since you keep the steel portion of the lines, this works on D90, Disco (I? Not sure what the Series II setup is) and RRC.

------ Follow up post added May 17th, 2012 04:00 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by KKilo23
That looks very nice and shinny. What I saved went intongas money! . I paid ~$150 for the '95 D90 setup if I remember that right. When I have to do it again (I.e. When the lines fail, because that's rubber under the stainless braiding, so they will! ), I'll go with the same setup as i now have on the disco (which will be a one time charge of $50 then $10 every 5 years or so).
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  #20  
Old May 17th, 2012, 09:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lesandjes View Post
Yup - ordering some today from Eric at Trailhead and truck is in the shop getting paint so will replace before it gets driven again. I was just wondering if the lines there now were updated/upgraded versions from LR as I searched on the part number and didn't see much info other then its a LR part. the '02 date would indicate it was a 'newer' part but not necessarily upgraded - so just curious.

AndrewT
LR does not have a upgrade. You may have a newer version of the original part.
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