From: Arthur M. Vigil [mailto:email@example.com]
Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2002 6:22 PM
Subject: D-90 Keys
Okay, here are the aftermarket part numbers for the D90 keys:
Ignition: Ilco # X157 or EZ # LF17 (either one will work, they are identical)
Doors: Ilco # 62FT or EZ # F68YT (either one will work, they are identical)
The OEM ignition key blank (with the plastic bow) IS only available to the dealers, although the all-metal Ilco blank is identical in size and thickness. It has a normal size hole in the bow as opposed to the OEM's wide-open design.
The Ilco door key has a smaller bow then the all-metal OEM key blank and IMHO looks better (if you're into keys that is). Interesting side note about the door key- it's actually a Jaguar key blank.
I decided to replace my worn door key and just went and picked up 10 of each in case anyone else needs one or both. Or just give the guy in the locksmith van the above key numbers and he'll be able to get them for you.
I'd strongly recommend having the blanks cut by a business with a "code" or "punch" machine as opposed to just a cutting wheel. The code machines actually stamps a new key instead of copying one that is already worn. Feel free to email me privately with any questions.
From: Bruce R. Bonar[SMTP:firstname.lastname@example.org]
Sent: Saturday, September 30, 2000 3:13 PM
Subject: Re: [D90] windows
> Does anybody know hoe to remove the sliding windows on a soft-top D90?
There are two holes at the top of the plastic door fascia that allow you to access the nuts and bolts that attach the window to the door. You will need a deep, 13mm I believe, socket to remove the nuts on the bolts. One hole is just above the door handle and the other is an equal distance from the front of the door.
94 D90 "Spot"
From: Alan E. Foster[SMTP:email@example.com]
Sent: Wednesday, July 05, 2000 10:10 AM
Subject: Re: [D90] Re: Loosening those darn windows
>is there an official process for removing the windows
>off a D90?
There are 2 15mm nuts over the studs that hold each window down; I've always found that you should start them w/ the ratchet, but then just turn the socket by hand to get them off; they'll require a deep socket, and are found inside the 2 big holes on the underside of where the window mounts. Once the nuts are off, lock the windows open and use a rubber mallet or the palm of your hand (can get painful) to get them out ... the first time is never easy; general consensus is to toss the plastic sleeves (you'll know 'em when you see 'em), as this makes future removal/installation much easier.
Date: Thu, 01 Jun 2000 14:09:18 -0400
From: Cliff firstname.lastname@example.org
Subject: Re: D-90 door tops
Brian Liang wrote:
> Does anyone know an easy way to remove the door tops from a soft top?
> I tried to take them off and I had a really hard time.
First of all, make sure the studs in the door tops have been converted
from the old style with the plastic sleeves to the newer style that are
tapered and doesnt use sleeves. I use never sieze on the studs, with
quick nuts (why werent these factory, they are fantastic) and make sure
the seal is lubricated well. I use 303, and it hasnt harmend my paint at
all. It used to take me 10 mins and alot of banging and rocking to get
them off, now takes under 30 seconds.
Doug B. replied:
> Please elaborate about the "newer style windows frame studs". I have a
> '95 with the original studs and plastic sleeves. I also use a
> significant amount of copper anti-seize (1100 - it's thicker than 800
> and more resistant to water). I've kind of resigned myself to the
> method of banging the windows out once a year...
And Cliff answered:
Doug and Alan,
I had read on the Rovers North BB (of all places, havnt been there in years) about these back in early '98. I had asked the same question, and the newer studs were suggested. Mine being a '97, I couldnt imagine that there was anything "newer". It seems that Land Rover superceded this part to the new design (so I have been told). I went to my dealer, complained, and they swapped them out in under an hour. They still were pretty tight until I neversized them and siliconed the bottom of the seal, but are now easy to remove. And no more plastic sleeves falling out, getting lost, etc.
Date: Sun, 11 Jul 1999 22:40:11 -0400
From: "Brian Cramer" email@example.com
Subject: RE: [D90] Side Windows
>I have a question about the side windows on my D90, is the White sleeve
>around the posts, that the bolts attach to, are they supposed to come out
>with the windows.. Not a big deal just wondering; now that it is summer I
>just leave them out but would be nice to know some other peoples
I ditched them when I got the QuickNuts. They hold the door tops pretty tight, and those sleeves are a royal pain in the butt.
Cliff firstname.lastname@example.org added:
I had my pins replaced with the newer tapered ones, no more sleeves and easy to remove the windows now!
Joe Young email@example.com added:
I only use one tube per side. I can then take them on and off easily. FYI.
Craig Reece firstname.lastname@example.org added:
The guy I bought my D90 from, Tom Boback, installed the Quick-Nuts, which are great, but also replaced the plastic sleeves with copper pipe sleeves - looks like just regular 3/8" type M or L copper water supply piping available at any hardware store or plumbing supply place, Orchard Supply or Home Depot. They never bind coming out, and the windows don't rattle.
Marc-Andre Leger email@example.com adds: BP and Rovers North stock the Quicknuts. I use and love them.
From: Scott Monico[SMTP:firstname.lastname@example.org]
Sent: Thursday, July 06, 2000 8:44 AM
Subject: [D90] Re: Re: Loosening those darn windows
I stopped using the sleeves so I could shift the windows over a bit to make
a tighter seal at the top. It helped a bit and reduced the draft and water
leakage. The rubber seal between the window and the door top prevents the
window from shifting when tight.
Date: Mon, 04 Sep 2000 13:55:48 -0700
From: Clarke Williams email@example.com
Subject: Re: Which Automotive Tools?
At 02:00 PM 04-09-00 -0400, you wrote:
>I just made door removal a lot easier -- I cut out the inner door (plastic)
>where it covered the nuts on the inside; now, I can take them off by
>removing the 13mm nuts with a deep socket, and don't even need the phillips
>head (there's enough tension in the system to keep the heads from turning).
Those are actually "Posidrive" screws, not Phillips. This applies to all of the cross-head slot screws in a Land Rover. Phillips screwdrivers will mangle the screw if it is tight.
And in response to:
>What are posidrive screws? Even though the impact hammer worked fine, I want
>the right tool.
Clarke later added:
Posidrive has eight "crosses" rather than four as on a Phillips. It is thinner and longer than a Phillips. One of the "plus" patterns in the Posidrive is pretty thin. If you will look at the large screws fastening the hinges to the bulkhead and doors, you can see the second "plus" pattern quite plainly.
Snap-On has Posidrive. I expect Craftsman probably does too but don't know that for sure.
I would suggest getting Number 1 and Number 2 Posidrive as classic "screwdrivers" and Number 3 and Number 4 sizes (used for the large screws in the hinges) as 3/8" drive sockets. My 3/8" tool set includes a screwdriver-type handle for Torx, Posidrive, Phillips, etc sockets.
From: Alan Dobbs[SMTP:firstname.lastname@example.org]
Sent: Friday, December 08, 2000 5:29 AM
Subject: RE: [D90] custom SS studs
We just made a quick page for the studs (prototype) we manufactured
URL : http://www.gulfcoastrovers.com/rovers/window_studs/index.htm
Alan & Mimi Dobbs
From: Jamie Austin[SMTP:email@example.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2000 2:12 AM
Subject: [D90] Door part #'s
Part numbers for doors :
one piece with wind up window RH ALR 6256
" " " " " " LH ALR 6257 (these are just the door frames,there a ton of stuff to go in the doors,i.e. winders,locks etc.can supply these numbers if necessary)
Two piece doors,upper section with 'angled' glass,as per NAS D90 MTC 8841 LH
" " " MTC 8840 RH
(Complete tops including glass and sliders)
Lower section 395532 LH
" " 395331 RH
Series type door tops(with straight glass ) 320853 RH
" " " " 320854 LH
(These use the same door lower's as the NAS type.)
You lot must think that I am a real sad case with my room littered with LR parts catalogues......
'96 D110 Tdi
'92 D90 Tdi
'85 D90 V8i
From: Jamie Austin[SMTP:firstname.lastname@example.org]
Sent: Saturday, May 13, 2000 6:46 AM
Subject: Re: [D90] SW Spare Tire Mounting Plate
Part #s for rear door are:
ALR 2377 carrier spare wheel (the bit with 3 long bars on)
ALR 2378 plate clamp
SE106251L screw x11
WL106001L spring washer x11
NH106041L nut x11
90577473 lug nut x6 (one either side of the wheel)
MXC 7226 stiffener rear door,RH
MXC 7227 stiffener rear door, LH
78248 pop rivet x22
'96 Tdi D110
'92 V8i D90
'85 Tdi D90
From: Jeff Gauvin[SMTP:email@example.com]
Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2000 9:44 AM
Subject: Re: [D90] tailgate add-on
At 07:33 PM 8/27/2000, you wrote:
>has anyone put a lock in a '94 d-90 tailgate? If they have how did
>they do it and where did they source the parts?
Yes, many have done this simple mod. For parts you need a passenger side door latch assembly, and a new set of lock cores if you want all your locks to match. You will need to punch/drill a hole for the lock. I had Rob Dassler of Denver East do mine about five years ago.